Need help hardwiring my Garmin - Where to tap for power

Sonic04GT

Sonic04GT

Member
Nov 1, 2009
844
2
19
West Palm Beach, FL
#1
I picked up one of these to hardwire my Garmin because I'm sick of that cigarette lighter wire hanging.
Amazon.com: Gilsson Direct Wire Cable for Garmin Nuvi 205 255 265 550 660 755 760 765 775 885 Magellan 1412 4210 TomTom…

I have the 255W.

Now, I have one of the little add-a-circuit things but where should I tap for power in the fuse box? I only want it to receive power when the ignition is on. What would be a good circuit to plug the add-a-circuit into with the same power characteristics but only turns on with the ignition?

The cigarette lighter adapter says

Input 10-30V -1A (Max)
Output 5.25-4.9V 1A
Fuse: UL250VAC 1A

Thanks alot
 
#3
What do you have Kilgore? A Tom Tom?

There are many you can use, especially if you are only pulling 1A. Here's a couple:
#1 - 15A (Hot in run)
#15 - 10A (Hot in run or start)

Haynes Repair Manual - priceless
 
#4
twogts4us said:
What do you have Kilgore? A Tom Tom?

There are many you can use, especially if you are only pulling 1A. Here's a couple:
#1 - 15A (Hot in run)
#15 - 10A (Hot in run or start)

Haynes Repair Manual - priceless
Click to expand...

Been wanting a Haynes manual but the local store doesn't have it. Any chance you could take a picture of that page/diagram?

Sounds like #15 is probably where I'll go. Gotta go buy another 10A fuse.

What kind of protection will a 10A fuse provide though for a 1A circuit? Or do I have it backwards?

EDIT: Those don't quite correspond to my '04 GT fusebox

View attachment 213386

I'll see what the owner's manual says later.
 
#5
diagram-11-4

FWIIW, the fuse should be sized to protect the wire and the device. Should always use the smallest size fuse that does the job (but avoids unnecessary blow outs). Suggest going with a 5 amp fuse.

Consider using a fuse like F2.20 for the convertible top. It may even be empty in a hard top car.

Look at diagram-11-4 in post # 10:

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/801717-99-gt-cruise-install.html
 
#6
wmburns said:
FWIIW, the fuse should be sized to protect the wire and the device. Should always use the smallest size fuse that does the job (but avoids unnecessary blow outs). Suggest going with a 5 amp fuse.

Consider using a fuse like F2.20 for the convertible top. It may even be empty in a hard top car.

Look at diagram-11-4 in post # 10:

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/801717-99-gt-cruise-install.html
Click to expand...

Awesome, those diagrams are very helpful. F2.20 actually has a 15A fuse in it right now.

How about this?
F2.21 5 Powertrain Control Module (PCM) (12A650), Instrument cluster

5A fuse that I assume works on Run and Start? Or should I stay away from tapping into anything with the PCM? Will pulling the fuse on the PCM temporarily have any effect? I have a Diablo tune installed.

Another 5A is:
F2.37 5 Function selector switch assembly, Rear window defrost switch (18578),
Instrument cluster, Transmission control switch, Traction

Once again, I only want power while the ignition is on, good choice or no?

Thanks again for all the assistance guys
 
#7
I thought your plan was to use an "add a circuit"? If so, the amps of the donor circuit doesn't matter. The fuse in the "add a circuit" should protect what ever is down stream.

I would not tap a critical circuit. I would tap a circuit such that if in-op, would not drastically affect the driveability of the car.

I certainly would pick a hot in run/acc circuit. Otherwise, you will be opening a post asking why your battery discharges after a few days.
 
#8
wmburns said:
I thought your plan was to use an "add a circuit"? If so, the amps of the donor circuit doesn't matter. The fuse in the "add a circuit" should protect what ever is down stream.

I would not tap a critical circuit. I would tap a circuit such that if in-op, would not drastically affect the driveability of the car.

I certainly would pick a hot in run/acc circuit. Otherwise, you will be opening a post asking why your battery discharges after a few days.
Click to expand...

Any recommendations? Off of the list here
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...9812394-99-gt-cruise-install-diagram-11-4.pdf

Do you guys think this will suffice as a ground? Sorry for all the dumb questions. I just like knowing it's done right when it comes to electrical, or really anything with vehicles for that matter haha

View attachment 213378
 
#10
So what's wrong with the convertible top switch F2.20? It's hot in run or acc which should be perfect.

The circuit should even be unused. I would confirm that there is power in the circuit just to be safe.

For a 1 amp circuit, almost anything would work as a ground. Certainly the bolt you have marked is more than OK.
 
#11
wmburns said:
So what's wrong with the convertible top switch F2.20? It's hot in run or acc which should be perfect.

The circuit should even be unused. I would confirm that there is power in the circuit just to be safe.

For a 1 amp circuit, almost anything would work as a ground. Certainly the bolt you have marked is more than OK.
Click to expand...

I will throw a couple 15A fuses in the add-a-circuit after work today and see how 2.20 works out. Trial and error is probably easier than a multimeter.

Thanks man

Edit - Well I'm an idiot. Ran outside to put the final touches minus the power and realize my standard add-a-circuit definitely wont work on a mustang as they have mini-fuses. Sonuva...

Gonna run over to Oreillys later.
 
#12
I certainly hope that you are not planning to keep 15 amp fuses protecting this project. Just look at those tiny wires. They are so small that if a short happened, the down stream wires could burn up before a 15 amp fuse blew.

The fuse needs to be sized to protect the wires AND the device. Recommend the max fuse size to be 5 amp.

I recall an experience with a teen age DIY CB radio install and a removable CB radio. Radio was installed with a protection fuse in a pig tail. The pig tail shorted out in the workings of the removal bracket while I was driving. The inside of the car instantly filled with smoke from the burning wire insulation.

The fuse never blew even though the wire insulation was completely burned off.

I was lucky traffic was light at the time. It was a real experience how difficult it is to drive when the car is full of smoke.
 
#13
twogts4us said:
What do you have Kilgore? A Tom Tom?
Click to expand...
Hell no I would never own any of those GPS single purpose devices. Those things are for VW drivers that think their car is a video game. A waste of money IMHO. When I see someone with crap like that on their dash I point and laugh...

Anyways on the thread topic when I hooked in my radar detector I used the spot in the fuse block that is for the daytime running lights, very easy.
 
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