Question For Why Aod To T5

[Mustang5L5]

The 3.8l shares the same bolt pattern as the 5.0, so you at looking for a 3.8l trans. I think after 2003 they went elevtronis speedo.

Your have to give the donor trans a performance rebuild. Stall converter, extra clutches, shift kit, cooler. Will take big power.

Another option is to have someone rebuild and AOD with the 4r70w guts.

If you are serious about building up an automatic, this is the better option. I've seen built 4r70ws stuck behind 600-700hp drag terminator Cobras and hold up to launching on slicks.

 

[imp]

Because real men use 3 pedals

Yeah, but so did the Model T! imp

 

[fredfifty]

http://www.latimes.com/local/lanow/la-me-ln-carjacker-cant-drive-stick-shift-20150216-story.html

 

[Gear grabber]

I am eventually looking at maybe putting a 351 in it and just want a trans that will be good and last me. I plan on ever now and then getting on her pretty good. Just looking to take her out and have some fun.

T-56, row the gear box and 2 overdrives. The up front cost will hurt,but it is fun.

 

[cleanLX]

I love the manual transmission experience.
Had to search high and low for my 6spd Wrangler.
Having said that, if I had an AOD Fox and the AOD was giving up the ghost, I'd simply build the AOD.
A well built auto is still a lot of fun... yes they rob more power in dyno-land, but built correctly they actually put more power to the ground... especially once you get older and your legs and arms slow down... this is experience talking.

 

[90sickfox]

The v6 3.8 bell housing will bolt up to a 5.0 but the starter won't work...making it pointless. The 5.0 has a 157 tooth flywheel...the 3.8 has a 164 tooth flywheel. The starter locations on the bell housings don't match up.

You can swap it if you use a 5.0 truck flywheel, clutch, and starter. The clutch and flywheel are bigger than a fox 5.0...there are small advantages to that. The clutch will hold more but the weight will cause the engine to take a little longer to settle after revving...and it'll take longer to climb rpms. Probably would never really notice.

The bell housing will also set the trans further back in the tunnel. The thing to do would be to buy a 94-95 v8 bell housing.

I've heard of people swapping the input shaft and bearing retainer for a fox one. You could then use a fox 5.0 bell housing.

 

[FastDriver]

The clutch will hold more but the weight will cause the engine to take a little longer to settle after revving...and it'll take longer to climb rpms. Probably would never really notice.

Out of curiosity, are you talking about an 11" clutch? I've seen them out there, but didn't know what they went on.

The added surface area is a positive as it increases the grabbing power, but the increased radius adds "moment of inertia" and more mass. That's double-trouble on any weak drivetrain components, because it increases the shock on the launch. My go-to drivetrain guys advised staying away from that idea. On street tires or with cars that won't launch at high RPM, then I'm sure it doesn't really make a difference. But, then, what is the point to the swap?

 

[Mustang5L5]

Having said that, if I had an AOD Fox and the AOD was giving up the ghost, I'd simply build the AOD.
A well built auto is still a lot of fun... yes they rob more power in dyno-land, but built correctly they actually put more power to the ground... especially once you get older and your legs and arms slow down... this is experience talking.

I still have my AOD that came out of the car. Didn't feel like selling it and having to bring people into my house to show it. But recently I came across a nice 1990 GT vert that had a blown AOD for $1500. Nothing else was wrong with it and it was a DD type of car. I tried to get there as quick as I could, but someone else beat me to it. I would have tossed my old AOD in the car and cruised it around and just cleaned it up.

But my point was I don't have an pure hatred for AOD cars. I just think stick cars are more fun, but there are situations where I would prefer an automatic...like sitting in traffic on my way to work sipping a coffee.

 

[Black1987]

The v6 3.8 bell housing will bolt up to a 5.0 but the starter won't work...making it pointless. The 5.0 has a 157 tooth flywheel...the 3.8 has a 164 tooth flywheel. The starter locations on the bell housings don't match up.

You can swap it if you use a 5.0 truck flywheel, clutch, and starter. The clutch and flywheel are bigger than a fox 5.0...there are small advantages to that. The clutch will hold more but the weight will cause the engine to take a little longer to settle after revving...and it'll take longer to climb rpms. Probably would never really notice.

The bell housing will also set the trans further back in the tunnel. The thing to do would be to buy a 94-95 v8 bell housing.

I've heard of people swapping the input shaft and bearing retainer for a fox one. You could then use a fox 5.0 bell housing.

I think this was in regards to Mustang5L5 response (least how I read it). He was referring to the 3.8's 4R70W bolting up to the 5.0 not the 3.8's manual. Everything you said about the 3.8 to 5.0 manual swap is on point tho.

@Mustang5L5 what is needed in the 4R70W swap besides a Controller (and/or manual valve body) and custom driveshaft? Do you need the controller if you swap guts from the 4R70W to AOD?

 

[Mustang5L5]

I
@Mustang5L5 what is needed in the 4R70W swap besides a Controller (and/or manual valve body) and custom driveshaft? Do you need the controller if you swap guts from the 4R70W to AOD?

I really don't know. My general knowledge of the swap is more of just an overview. I do believe this is a common swap though and the info should be readily available to find. I just don't know it well enough to dive into the deeper details like that as to what needs to be done