Hooked up the main power wire for the EPS. My Burnzomatic butane soldering iron started leaking....and damn near froze my pointer finger...that was right before the fireball. No damage done just made sure my heart still worked. Lol

Finished up with my torch. It worked.

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Here's my mess. Atleast it's hidden.

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I still haven't hooked up the trigger wire. I know the vacuum pump is triggered by ignition power that cuts off during cranking.

....and the days keep ticking by....
 
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I have a problem....now I'm researching adding cobra ABS to Dusty. I just can't leave stuff alone. It would be cool though. Would mount it in the trunk. Now where safe under the front rails like stock due to the wastegate and BOV. I don't want it right behind the impact absorber. Seems simple enough and it's stand alone...and could be switched off. It's not traction control just ABS. The cost would be around 500 bucks....

Edit; 94- 95 is stand alone 3wal abs. No good for me...I have irs and need 4 wheel control.
 
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Sorry, but I don't get adding abs, I get abs but why make things more complicated? It's not a daily driver.

Abs does help control a car during a brake skid. It's not a daily...but could turn into a daily like my 89 did. I had to sell all my cars and trucks, 3 jeep cherokees, newer jaguar, dodge Dakota, Ford f150, 67 buick Electra, 97 integra, and was only left with my racecar. I daily drove that thing for 3 years through winter blizzards and all. Any car I own has to have the ability. That is why my racecar had AC. It held the most sentimental value and carries over into this car.

I don't need a rear view camera either but it's hooked up to my mirror with a compass. I don't need EPS either...or coil overs...or a turbo...but I did need a cup holder console. Lol

It does complicate things... I have a habit of doing that to myself.
 
I’m looking forward to this install. I’d rather add ABS than EFI to a classic. It works when you really need it no matter who is driving. Otherwise, the fewer computers on a car, (besides ABS, stock EFI, and the phone/MP3 player), the better.
 
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Today sucked at work. I get more tired every day of being a mechanic. Smh

Pulled the PS pump and bracket out. On my car I didn't have to unplug anything. Went pretty smooth. When I think about adding things I always try to make sure it'll come apart easy to access stuff. I wish engineers thought the same way.

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Pulled out the micrometer and measured the pump bracket. Now I know what size spacers are needed. The bolts and studs have gotten rusty so I'm going to rust proof them by putting old oil on them and baking them at 450° until they turn black. This is a very old way of doing things but works pretty well. I've done the quenching style of heating them with a torch, dipping them in oil, taking them out and in a few times, burning the oil on them,, and letting them cool down. Lasts for a long time.

Here's the measurements for safe keeping. If anyone wants to delete power steering but keep AC this is how long the spacers have to be.

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The factory power steering hose does screw in the Volvo EPS but the ends are different. People say the factory one will work....guess I'll find out. If it works in drift cars it'll work on a street car, right ?
 
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This is the thickness of the washers I'm using. I want to leave room for bigger washers at each end to help spread the load.

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Doing some research on power steering pressure hoses. The one for non AC has an end that looks exactly like the one on the volvo pump....its flared with o ring behind it.

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The one for a mustang with AC is shorter and has an end that's straight with a recess for an o ring.

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My PS hose on my car hasn't been changed since before I bought my 89 in about 2006. I'm trying to figure out how my car has the longer hose with the straight end with o ring recess. My 89 was an AC car from the factory so the end matches that.. To my knowledge there is no difference between the power steering pumps. That would have to mean that both ends fit the same fitting in the factory PS pump. Would also mean it will work in the volvo EPS.

I'm going to the store after work to check them out.

Edit; the hose ends are exactly the same.
 
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Here are the ends. Volvo end and new PS hose end.

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Here's where the hose screws into...

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The mustang hose is just a hair too big to fit. People that are using the mustang hose must be bottoming the fitting against the hole not allowing the O ring to seal...instead the metal edge is sealing it. I measured the depth to the outer edge inside the pump and the point on the mustang fitting where it stopped screwing in. What I found was that with 3 threads exposed the fitting tip was not deep enough for the o ring to seal.

Edit; hole in EPS is 10mm...Mustang hose end is 11mm or 7/16. It can be drilled out ( carefully ) to allow the factory mustang line to work in the EPS.

The other style is on order and I should have it tomorrow. If it is just like the Volvo one the search will stop there. The shorter w/AC hose fits better than the longer one I currently have.

We shall continue tomorrow....
 
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Got the non AC hose today. The end is exactly like the other mustang hose but it is longer. There is a glare in the advertisement pic that makes it look like the Volvo style end. It's exactly like my old hose.

Sometimes I realize how complicated my brain makes things. The hole in the EPS is 10mm....the factory mustang end is 11mm or 7/16....the pump is aluminum and easy to drill...so...

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I measured the depth of the fitting and made a stop right behind this bushing to protect the threads and to keep the bit straight. Coated with grease and quickly made a way to make the factory hose work.

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I got exited and put the line in with the O' ring before I chamfered the edge...big mistake...tore that thing all up. A 1/2 drill bit cleaned it up and the line now goes in with no issues.

Chopped up the spacers. One of them ended up just under a couple 10ths short. I plan to use bigger washers at the ends to help spread out the load. Theres also a lot of flex in the stamped steel bracket if need be. Seems like the bracket started out 4 inches and 3.5 inches thick. That was before being taken off and put back on atleast 100 times over its 32 year life.

This one is almost spot on. PS bracket measured 3.440in.

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This one not so much... bracket measured 3.986in.

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Tomorrow I'll try to clean the spacers up. The welds are there...what more can I say. It was hard welding them on the floor held in a c clamp. The new auto dim welding mask worked great though.

We've got company coming tomorrow so hopefully I'll be able to get out in the garage.
 
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I know that your name is Scott, but I’m seriously thinking about calling you Jack.
As in Jack of all trades, and in this is the house ( or car) that Jack built.

You-n-me, @a91what,and @KZGUNS dude....seems that there’s not a lot of guys willing to “boldly go where no man with a wallet has gone before”

I hope you figure it out..As an outsider looking in, it seems like a much bigger pain in the ass than dropping the column out, and sectioning in a Prius EPS unit, but maybe you need the hydraulics for a Hydroboost..
And i’m afraid that just like me, all of the work figurin’, and fabbin’ that you’ve done will be just to show what you’ve done, cause...Aint nobody here gonna do what you have done.
 
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I was gonna suggest just drilling it slightly bigger or adapt to -an if that's possible.

I thought about doing AN fittings but I've seen enough videos of hose leaks to keep me away from that. If it wasn't a street car I'd be more prone to go that route. I want to be able to replace stuff right if the shelf...or with a quick trip to the JY and minimal fab work. Drilling that one hole is no big deal.
 
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I am seriously considering doing this myself, if for no other reason than to clean up the engine bay further. keep up the good work man

Thanks man !!!

I like different stuff. I guess most of us do. I do normal repairs and replacements every day....gets tiring.

The Volvo eps like Mike did is simple but you need a manual rack. I've seen a few hydraulic racks lock up when people try to make them " manual " racks.

I do like the fact that the Pruis one fits under the dash completely out of sight.
 
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I got this done on my lunch break....

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I'll clean them up with some bondo and paint them later. While grinding the short one down one of the washers popped off. FML

A few quick hits with our gas mig and its all gooderer. The welds are clearly better. One day I'll get a regulator and a tank for my sweet little Sears hot box.

Just a note to self .... next time I do this I need to bevel the pipe right before the washer. Makes it a lot easier to see where to lay the welding wire and no fear of grinding the weld off ( I knew this but in my haste I didn't do it...this one step cost me 2 redos and about an hour of extra time )
 
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