I just joined
- Thread starter JK.
- Start date
gkomo
now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft
Also give us some background on whats been done/not done. How many miles? 5speed/auto? Any current issues that need addressing?
Neko-
15 Year Member
Ford did indicate that the higher ethanol additives were not recommended for my 2002 GT, on account of the fuel lines not being up to spec to handle the corrosive properties ethanol can have on those lines.
Noticed the E10 mix caused a lot more jerking and hesitation than the E5 did. Once I switched over to non ethanol added fuel all that jerking and hesitation went away (to the point where I could claim that the E5 also did it's share of adding hesitation and so but not to the point where it bothered me much or was very noticable - Once I needed to switch to E10 it was definitly noticable tho).
Since that was true for my 02 GT, I'm guessing it's directly portable to your 94 GT. So unless you know for a fact the fuel lines have been replaced end-to-end to hold up to the E10 fuel, my recommendation would be to either not use ethanol added fuel, or only use it sparingly. Someone else more local to the US might want to weigh in there with a different opinion tho.
Noticed the E10 mix caused a lot more jerking and hesitation than the E5 did. Once I switched over to non ethanol added fuel all that jerking and hesitation went away (to the point where I could claim that the E5 also did it's share of adding hesitation and so but not to the point where it bothered me much or was very noticable - Once I needed to switch to E10 it was definitly noticable tho).
Since that was true for my 02 GT, I'm guessing it's directly portable to your 94 GT. So unless you know for a fact the fuel lines have been replaced end-to-end to hold up to the E10 fuel, my recommendation would be to either not use ethanol added fuel, or only use it sparingly. Someone else more local to the US might want to weigh in there with a different opinion tho.
DadLife0724
Active Member
Neko-
15 Year Member
Not the wrong thread... I have no excuse beyond it's been a long day, and I read the OP question as a question about fuel. No clue where that came from. Esprecially since your comment pointed me at the OP post again and forced me to re-read it.Where did this come from?
Post in the wrong thread maybe?
No clue where my misreading that came from, so feel free to ignore me.
Sorry/
Not the wrong thread... I have no excuse beyond it's been a long day, and I read the OP question as a question about fuel. No clue where that came from. Esprecially since your comment pointed me at the OP post again and forced me to re-read it.
No clue where my misreading that came from, so feel free to ignore me.
I would ask for two of whatever you're taking but you already said it was "work" so, I don't want any part of that.
Still a good comment. I believe non EthanolNot the wrong thread... I have no excuse beyond it's been a long day, and I read the OP question as a question about fuel. No clue where that came from. Esprecially since your comment pointed me at the OP post again and forced me to re-read it.
No clue where my misreading that came from, so feel free to ignore me.
DadLife0724
Active Member
DoneNot the wrong thread... I have no excuse beyond it's been a long day, and I read the OP question as a question about fuel. No clue where that came from. Esprecially since your comment pointed me at the OP post again and forced me to re-read it.
No clue where my misreading that came from, so feel free to ignore me.
sorry I'm on a computer so I don't have it but its a stock 1994 sn95 all black 5.0 convertible with cobra rims
its all stock there's really no work done to it I believe but the rear main is leaking so I thought that when I have the car up to replace that I want to do actual work to it. I also think there might be a slight tick on the engine but its not often and no one else has heard it so I js might be crazy... theres 160k miles on it
Ok, first.....
Some here don't read too good so pics are required
Second, to satisfy the members here (mostly me) start a progress thread and tell us all the good, bad and the ugly when checking the oil, water and air in the tires. With pics, that will satisfy those that can't read
Oh, and those pesky 'repairs' that you need to do and some 'repairs' that didn't need repairing.
Remember....if it ain't broke, keep fixing it till it is.....
Some here don't read too good so pics are required
Second, to satisfy the members here (mostly me) start a progress thread and tell us all the good, bad and the ugly when checking the oil, water and air in the tires. With pics, that will satisfy those that can't read
Oh, and those pesky 'repairs' that you need to do and some 'repairs' that didn't need repairing.
Remember....if it ain't broke, keep fixing it till it is.....
Well you opened a can of worms now.
You gotta take the trans out to do rear main seal,so a new clutch,pressure plate and flywheel ,and while your in there a new throwing bearing ,pilot bearing,and a steel bearing Retainer.
This is also a good time to replace the factory shifter with a short throw shifter , and why not get a new mid pipe and cat back , and since your under there weld in sub frame connectors,and replace the factory rear control arms.
And on and on,oh the fox body life.
P.S. welcome to my nightmare.
You gotta take the trans out to do rear main seal,so a new clutch,pressure plate and flywheel ,and while your in there a new throwing bearing ,pilot bearing,and a steel bearing Retainer.
This is also a good time to replace the factory shifter with a short throw shifter , and why not get a new mid pipe and cat back , and since your under there weld in sub frame connectors,and replace the factory rear control arms.
And on and on,oh the fox body life.
P.S. welcome to my nightmare.
is all that really necessary? cause I'm kinda working with a tight budget ngl. but I was already planning on replacing the clutch while doing it.
You will need to get the stock flywheel resurfaced at a minimum vs buying a new one. When you have this done make sure the machine shop does this by grinding and not a lathe.
If you do a new clutch and pressure plate you should install a new throw out bearing and pilot bearing. Inspect the clutch fork pivot ball and if it is in good shape put a little high pressure grease (caliper pin grease) on it where the clutch fork engages on it.
The part about the steel bearing retainer for the input shaft on the T5 is something you may have to do. The OEM aluminum ones tend to get chewed up over time so its a maintenance thing. They can be had for not much $$$ and you probably need to address the input shaft end play and shim that tighter anyhow.
I would also plan on replacing the fluids in the T5 as this would be a good time to do so. All the rest of it can be done at a later date.
If you do a new clutch and pressure plate you should install a new throw out bearing and pilot bearing. Inspect the clutch fork pivot ball and if it is in good shape put a little high pressure grease (caliper pin grease) on it where the clutch fork engages on it.
The part about the steel bearing retainer for the input shaft on the T5 is something you may have to do. The OEM aluminum ones tend to get chewed up over time so its a maintenance thing. They can be had for not much $$$ and you probably need to address the input shaft end play and shim that tighter anyhow.
I would also plan on replacing the fluids in the T5 as this would be a good time to do so. All the rest of it can be done at a later date.
that’s really good to know thank you i was planning on replacing the fluids anyway. i was wondering why when im doin bout 100 the shifter started to vibrate like crazy cs from what ive looked up its pointing to the transmission brackets that hold it in place
Ok, let's go a step farther and get that drive shaft balanced with new Ujoints.
Just a thought....
Just a thought....
