I was just thinking of that same thing. I think the best route for those is a line bore and bearings or new heads. I would ask this question on www.modulardepot.com .
Yup they had an oiling problem at one time.
What I would do is see if you have a local machine shop that could line bore them because as they are now there done.
Send me a pic [email protected]
Your links suck.
I am guessing you took the cams out and noticed the cam journals are a little rough looking. Thats normal but let me see some pics.
Take the pump off of the block there is one bolt thats a problem.
Either use a ratcheting wrench to get to the bolt closest to the pulley or just remove the line from the bottom of the pump. If you remove the line you will have to get the teflon washer from ford when you put the line back in...
No the 6AL wont work and you wont need it. With good wires and coils the existing stuff is pretty good. The fuel cell you can make work. For the 4.10's there is no number just as long as they are for a 8.8 inch ford they will work.
Check your connections on everything and maybe test the CoP unit then check for vaccum leaks.
The p1000 code is a normal code you get when you scan for DTC's with the motor off.
If you computer goes bad it wont run.
Internet bench racing magazine dyno numbers is fuggin worthless ricer crap.
Here you look there are graphs somewhere.
http://forums.modulardepot.com/search.php?s=
Installing a aftermarket cam without degreeing it in is just stupid. You may not get any more power out of it but you definately know that you didnt slip up timing the cams also you know dam sure that the cams are dead on with the card.
You may take the chance on someone elses workmanship...