Gotta clean out the garage.. heres a list of stuff i have any intrest email me ..
351w- needs to be rebuilt looks fairly clean on the inside been stored indoors since it was pulled. Ran but smoked, includes tfi distributor valve covers.. oil pan was never pulled. out of a 91 e-150 hydraulic...
I did see a couple bubles of something not sure it it was coolant though... it wasn't signifigant enough to identify.
There's no oil on the dip stick now & there were oil droplets blowing out of the tail pipe.It's ALOT of oil....
Thanks
Mike
This all started by me blowing up my 300,000 mile original 86 motor:shrug: :lol: , I replaced it with a used motor out of a MARK 7. It was running perfectly then one morning I start it up & it has a dead hole. :shock:
Used a boroscope to check it out (cyl 6) & the piston /cyl wall looks to...
I'd be more inclined to use an air gap or a victor jr on your specific combination of parts. How ever your manifold choice should reflect your cam specs, since you don't know what cam .....kinda hard to recommend the proper manifold.
Mike
You know I don't even know if my CC was functional when I put this car together... I just yanked the wheel plates & all so I could put the non cruise wheel on it. The CC wheel just looks fugly IMO, so to be honest I didn't care if it killed the CC function.
I tend to think alot of other...
I'd find the easiest connection to get to & unplug that one. Since (on my model/year) the CC brain is to the upper left of the clutch pedal this would be your easiest way out with ease of future reactivation.
I took off the CC steering wheel & put on a 86 NON CC wheel ... looks the best IMHO...
I'd say Edelbrock Performer intake b/c the ports match pretty well out of the box. As far as the cam depends on how much you want to sacrafice now so you can make more power later or vica versa.
Like daggar said you can run them but you have to remove the baffle & depending on the rocker arm do a little grinding on the valve cover to make sure everything clears. Make sure you check your contact patch after you install them to make sure it didn't goof up your VT geometry.
Mike
I agree the diffrence will probably be minimal. Besides the heater tubes are bolted / fastened to the intake manifold so there is some natural heat transfer taking place there anyhow.
Mike
well aftermarket shifters are known for being a bit stiffer & notchy. As long as it's not grinding & your not forcing it into geat, you should be ok.
Mike