Personally,I would use an upgraded modern cannon plug connectors if I was taking on that project. However, if you wanted to use the 1960s factory connectors, you could remove the pins from them, clean/inspect and re-pin them with new wires and pins.
I'm very happy with the Hooker Comps, NOT the Supercomps, they hang too low.
Crane makes some very good hydraulic roller cams which is a breeze to convert over to in that 69 block. I don't have my book with me, but about a 542/563 lift maybe about a 242 duration should clear the piston tops...
The last 393 stroker kit I got from CHP did not live up to my expectations.
1969 block was specified, and the main bearings and dished Probe pistons were for a 72 and later block. Mains had the tang on the wrong side journal-didn't work.
The pistons were for the taller deck height block, and...
Not too surprised.
I would cut the H pipe, and mount them up.
then you could take it down to a muffler shop and they could just put a sleeve on the H pipe,(or do it yourself). Good to go
Sorry. You're right. I wasn't very clear.
To get a TRUE manifold pressure reading, the reference should be below the throttle valves, from the mainfold. This is where I ran mine. If the reference is taken from the carb enclosure ABOVE the throttle valves, It will sense the compressor discharge...
Hopefully not.
Inside the vacuum diaphram where the vacuum hose connects to the distributor, there may be a small allen screw. Turning this inward slows the rate and vacuum level of vacuum ignition retard, and turning it outward increases the rate.
As far as the mechanical goes, you can...
I never really saw the need to go to an aluminum radiator for my own car, but I've put alot of them in.
I've always been really happy with just the big block Ford factory radiator. they work very well. Top pass. side and bottom drivers side would be a 1969 big block Ford radiator.
Yea, you're correct. To read the accurate boost level the line should reference BELOW or downstream of the throttle valves in the carb. If it's located above the carb throttle vavles, you will not get a true reading of MANIFOLD pressure as the carb hat or enclosure will tend to stack-up the...
Yea the carb is probably toasted, but I wouldn't worry about the rebuild just to fire it up.
Use some starting fluid to get it to pop over.
drain the oil and prime the oil pump with the new oil once topped off.
get a good battery.
go for it.