Well the control valve not set to proper lenght will cause problems.
The ball stud moves the spool valve which controls the flow of hyd fluid to the ram.
Just as not putting the roll pin in will allow the stud not to be centered and the spool valve will wander.
By preloading the spool valve...
Well you made me look in the book...:nonono:
Could it be you're not installing it correctly?
Do you have the 4 7/8 inch from control center stud to spindle connecting rod stud?
Have you installed the roll pin in the rod hole to lock the valve position on the rod?
The control valve...
Send me an email and I will forward you some full sized pic's of my set up.
It has taken a little fab work to make it work correctly to not hit the pulley or have the fan blade strike the compressor.
It can be done. :)
PB
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They may be sending the same one back to you.
Now you say you've tried switching the small lines and it still has the same shake.
Have you done any adjusting to the ball stud?
they may not have it centered and it is throwing off the fluid pressure to the ram.
The ball movement controls the...
I used the old Idler bracket and parts but modified it to work with the Sandon compressor.
I didn't like their bracket adapter from the york compressor.
Seems to work well and has not thrown the belt witha few 6k rpm runs. :D
now I need the hoses made up and it charged.
PB
I reused the stock bracket with some mods done to it.
The sanden comp is smaller and lighter but I didn't like the way the idler bracket attached to the pump.
With cutting it down and making my own mount, I have more room to the dist and water outlet.
Just take your time and line up the...
the bushings go into the inside of the shifter, washer on eather side between the shifter and housing, last 2 washers go on the outside of the housing.
Its a trick to get the shaft back in place and not drop a washer.
When my rear intake seal blew out and it covered the header tubes, I used some 0000 steel wool and a can of bug and tar remover for lube.
it even polished the headers some but didnot cut thru the coating.
Now if it would work on road rash on the #8 tube, I would be even Happier.
You can replace the seal by just removing the rear main cap.
the cap has half and the block holds the other.
take a small rod and push the seal at one end,
it will roll around the crank and stick out enough to get ahold of it.
When removing it do not try and pull straight down but work it...
Yes, I'm running one with a 600 Holley and it works great in all weather temps.
Starts and runs just fine in the cold and the summer heat keeps the fuel from boiling.
PB
If that is true, these 800# BB springs should not have as much give with this 351Cj in it. unless the extra weight of the scattersheild is pushing the weight up to BB size.
No the same mounts are in place.
and the exhaust pipes went into the collectors with only widing the x pipe some.
:rolleyes: I knew it went back togeather too easy.
:shrug: .... Well I'm stuck on this one.
I have a set of Big Block springs that I removed less than a quarter of a coil from when it had stock spring perches on it and it rode like a lumber truck.
I replaced the perches with Ot's roller perches and it did allow spring movment plus a whole...