It's only unfortunate for the people who don't figure it out. To be fair to racers, I'd do the same thing if I was one. My uncle was a boat and land speed racer and he took the other approach of just not talking about anything. He didn't talk much anyway though...
if I was building a race...
Is that what they're telling you? Keep in mind that most racers are full of s--t, especially the fast ones.
Regardless, I wouldn't go racing with a two-bolt Ford block if I could avoid it. The aftermarket "HiPo" 302 blocks that Ford used to sell can crack sometimes at the 450hp level in road...
The Boss 302 block is still a Windsor 302. Since you're using standard Windsor heads, you'll need a standard 289/302 intake. All of them use a thermostat in the intake so all of them are wet. Some have a rear coolant crossover, many do not.
Now that I think about it, maybe. The rear of the engine will need to be supported somehow. An engine support bar/leveler would be perfect or you could look at the design and DIY one. I've never had to do a rear main seal with the engine in a car.
I didn't replace my headers...I removed the power steering. :cool:
Does your PS ram have a drop bracket attaching it to the frame? If not, that's probably why there's interference. The brackets are a little hokey and some people recommended welding it to the subframe or the bolts tend to loosen.
You'll have to pull the transmission, clutch, flywheel, oil pan, and rear main cap in order to replace a two-piece rear main seal. If you can do that at home, then yes it can be done at home.
The "high-mileage" oils aren't going to help IMO.
Does it work correctly after it starts registering RPM?
All tachs I've ever used start registering RPM when the engine fires. Construction varies widely and I can only speculate that maybe the electronics in the Rocketman tach have a startup delay or need to sample engine speed briefly before...
It's not a "restoration" if you build the engine and paint the car a different color than it came with.
My engine combo is good for 280hp+ at the wheels and it's hardly a serious build. I mean it's a 9:1 engine that runs on 87 gas.
I would probably look at the Borgeson integrated power steering box conversion instead of retrofitting a stock slave cylinder. The stocker won't exactly fit with longtube headers for one and it's know for having a vague feel.
Which EEC-IV is in the car? The common A9L/A9P from '86-93 Mustangs never controlled an electric fan because those cars had thermostatic fan clutches. WOT cut is probably determined through the TPS signal. I don't remember; I sold my '89 GT a very long time ago. The A/C idle up would have to be...
One nice thing about the HEI is not needing a ballast resistor. It's a PITA to mount the module cleanly though since it was never meant to be used outside of an HEI distributor.
Nothing with breaker points I know of ever had it so yeah, I agree.
I have a DSII box and my engine has a DSII distributor, but I just wired it with a simpler HEI module instead.
I don't have a DSII wiring diagram, but it sounds like those wires are involved with cranking ignition retard and their original function would ultimately be optional.
Head over to DIYAutoTune and start over with the stock 5.0 tune file. You have a wideband I hope...
You did that by deleting your MSQ. Actually, you messed-up much earlier if simply deleting CurrentTune.msq put you back at square one.
I once had a 289 stick an exhaust valve open by close to a quarter inch while I was driving. Tore it apart on the roadside and saw one valve lower than the others. With few other options, rapped on it with wood and a hammer until it closed, put the covers back on, and made it home. It's a wonder...
An '05 Mustang V6? Modern Driveline doesn't seem to think it's all that strong. It also doesn't look easy to use in an early car what with the shifter and output shaft config.
https://www.moderndriveline.com/the-many-different-faces-of-the-t5/
I'd just bolt the plate on if you install one. No need to weld.
I would think the zero point gets set in the process of bleeding the system as long as you don't run out of travel. Then again perhaps the linkage or MC position needs to be adjusted. Honestly I don't have any experience with...
There should be a bumper under the dash that keeps the clutch pedal from returning too high. I think it's adjustable. The rest sounds like air in the hydraulics.
Is there a reinforcement plate on the firewall for the clutch master cylinder? I've heard that the firewall can crack with hydro...
Are you using a toploader hellhousing with the trans spacer plate and the clutch pivot adapter for the latemodel block? If so, I would think that the linkage is in the stock location and that stock application headers ought to fit. I have always liked Hooker Comps.