they are a 15x10 with 6.0 BS. on a 26x10 MT ET Drag
oh its a nitrous motor, it has 3:55 gears in the back, 3000 stall etc.. (went 10.1@131 on the 150's, that was on pump gas and pullin 7 degrees of timing out- recommended is 2) so ill put some C16 in it and start putting more timing in it...
thanks for all the compliments.
no dyno numbers. i kinda go by the saying "my dyno is 1320 feet" im sure i will put it on the rollers just for fun one of these days though
thanks. its a 408 with afr 205's, jay allen custom hyd. roller nitrous cam, victor jr., holley 850, pump gas motor.
welp these are the most recent ive taken of it. since then i have put kirkey seats in it (black tweed) and i have hidden all the wiring in the engine bay. gotta lotta things planned for this coming up season (wanna go 9.90's on the 150 shot, black out the engine bay etc..). tell me what you think.
just make sure when your adjusting the cam is at the base circle of the valve you are on.
here is a super good write-up on it. but remember our firing order is 13726548
Century Performance Center, Inc. :: Adjusting Valve Lash
408, AFR 205's, Jay Allen custom grind nitrous cam,vic jr.,850 Holley, C6, coilovers all the way around, 11.50's@120 N/A
here is my first pass ever with the car
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z5hq_93ut_k
i recomend an anderson ford motorsport hi-rev cam
and the springs as well, you can be reving as hi as 7500 and your car still pullin you back in the seat
its the way to go
the only time that sound happens to me is when i take the coil plug wire off and turn it over
when i swapped the coil over i changed the plug wires and cap and put the 6AL box on and i could definitly tell a difference in performance
the D&D coilover kit is great
and the strange adjustable struts are the way to go considering they have a lifetime warranty and its easy to switch them from 70/30 to 90/10
i have no swaybar (fron or back) in my 2900 lb. mustang and its not that big of deal, i didnt even notice a difference...