No chance you put the thermostat in backwards is there? Only reason I ask is these motors have one of the few therm. housings you can actually physically fit the thermostat into backwards and the last 2 stangs I bought when I tore the motors down this was an issue and gave me the exact symptoms...
Running Koni's, FMS C springs, megabite jr arms, and a MM panhard bar here and am very happy with the ride/handling . Didn't bother with the adjustable uppers here because I doubt this car will see strip use just lots of street abuse :)
You're just splitting hairs now... the intermediate shaft in the AOD is ALWAYS locked into the back of the torque converter housing otherwise your converter would be slipping all the time. And as I said before AOD engages the lockup internally when it engages the direct clutches since that shaft...
+1 on the leaky injector, don't know why I didn't think of that just replaced one 2 weeks ago. Pulled the plugs and all looked good except one was fouled black and stunk like gas. Changed that injector out and am finally getting alot better gas mileage (mine wasn't leaking enough to effect...
Mine doesn't have that check valve either, the vacuum reservoir is located up in the pass. side fender so you can't see it w/out pulling the fender liner out. Was the line coming out of the back of the plenum capped off or plugged? It sounds like someone just removed a huge hunk of stuff on ya...
Yeah you will need a lockup converter :P Non lockup converters for an AOD means no 4th gear. All he meant is the AODE has a lockup that engages in the torque converter itself and the AOD has a lockup that is engaged in the transmission via a shaft that is permanently locked into the converter...
Fuel pressure regulator getting any vacuum at all? No vacuum = open all the way. Also pinging is usually a sign of over advanced timing, crap gas, or a combination of the 2 if I'm not mistaken. Sorry can't help more couple things to check anyhow.
I don't see any reason you couldn't route them directly it seems to serve as nothing more than an easy spot to disconnect (which is nice)
** Lol come to think of it I have 1 vacuum line in that whole mess I didnt cap off when I deleted my smog egr stuff and thats the one from the manifold...
Heres a link to a diagram of how the vac lines are supposed to be run. http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg
The little black box I think your talking about is just a plug with 4 lines running into either side. Your TAD & TAB solenoids,EGR vacuum...
Granted that its an AOD you only need the safety switch wiring, that won't be in your 4 cyl if it has a 5 speed. AOD is hydraulic controlled so no computer is necessary.
I have to agree with stang&2Birds shocks/struts don't effect ride height just dampen the travel of the springs. Only thing I could think of in your case is they your buddy was haulin around alot of fat girls and made the springs tired :D Lol just messin with ya.
I wouldn't worry about a tune especially if you do it correct and don't have any CEL pop up on ya. I deleted all my smog stuff AND have my EGR deleted as well with no custom tune and don't run into any issues.
Yeah the AOD is controlled with a cable for this app not vacuum. Wish I could say something helpful but have a Transgo kit here myself that likes to shift into OD even though its in the D hole (only when you really mash on it which is just perfect timing to go bangin into OD). Did you use the...
I grabbed a block from a junkyard and had a shop clean it and a set of heads up. Had everything hot tanked/magnafluxed 3 ang. valve job, bronze guides, had my block bored .030 and he offered to put my shortblock together for an extra 100 bucks so I told him to go for it. All in all rebuild kit...
I know there is a resister on the backside of the instrument cluster that completes the charging circuit (w/out it even with working alternator battery won't charge) maybe something got toasted there, might explain why the gauge went dead too.
It isolates the spring from the frame for a reason though :P If this is just a DD then keep your isolators or the springs will transmit any and all vibrations right through them to the frame.
Safest/easiest way I found was just to go buy a $10 fuel safe transfer pump (most all local parts stores carry them) and just pump it out that way. My arms were tired but I didn't make a lake of fuel and nothing burned down :D
Usually when people say a "rattle" sound when you lug the motor I think detonation. Have seen this (my experience was from 2 separate genius friends running with WAY to much advance and/or crap gas) lead to a nice quarter size hole in the top of a piston on two occasions which dumped quite a...
Prolly not what you would want to do but when this happened to me I found a Nut that the bolt fit in the middle of nicely and welded it. Used a 3/4 impact and some pen. oil from there.