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  1. T

    smoke from steering column, now no start!

    everything works fine in the car, lights, stereo, turn signals, fuel pump primes ect ect.. when i press the clutch in to start and turn the key the dash lights (battery, air bag ect.. all light up as if the car was going to start) but the engine doesnt crank, click turn over nothing... as i...
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    smoke from steering column, now no start!

    i just checked all the fuses in the fuse box and they are all good. its 10pm and its dark now, so i guess ill have to continue tomorrow. how can i tell if a fuselink is good or bad? what should i be looking for?
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    smoke from steering column, now no start!

    ok i just replaced the ignition switch and still no go.. what gives? the wiring all looks fine and it was definatly the old one that went becauase i smelled the inside and it smells like burnt wires.. am i missing somerthing?
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    smoke from steering column, now no start!

    i just went out to start my car everything is as usual until i turn the key to start it and some smoke comes outta the steering column. the same smell smoke that smells when something electrical burns.. now when i go to start my car if i turn the key to accessory everything comes on and...
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    What else could it be? am I forgetting something?

    what size box end wrench is that nut? should i just tighten that nut as tight as i can physically get it? Im going to do it after i get home from the gym. Am i going to have to remove my calipers and rotors? or can i get at that nut to tighten it with everything still left in place?
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    What else could it be? am I forgetting something?

    No i didnt recheck the torque on the ball joint nut, my mechanic installed them for me. What is the ball joint nut supposed to be torqued at anyways? and can i even get a torque wrench in there? So basically i should recheck the torque on my wheel bearings and then recheck the torque on...
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    What else could it be? am I forgetting something?

    The ball joints are moog''s and they were replace less then 2 weeks ago so i highly doubt it is them, the wheel bearings are also brand new and they are torqued to spec like my manual said to do. tighten 15-25 lbs, back off a half turn then torqued to 13 lbs. the 6 and 12 test isnt a metal...
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    What else could it be? am I forgetting something?

    i dont know if its normal. i dont think it is. anyone?
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    What else could it be? am I forgetting something?

    The car is a 1991. What bushings are worn out do you think?
  10. T

    What else could it be? am I forgetting something?

    the bushings all look fine, what would i be looking for in a bad bushing?
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    What else could it be? am I forgetting something?

    Ive replaced my rotors, wheel bearings, tie rods (inner and outer) and my ball joints. when i do the 12 and 6 o'clock test i get a very little movement, just enough to make a metal to metal sound when i wiggle it from 12 to 6 and back. what the hell else could it be? ive replaced everything...
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    255/40/17 or 245/45/17

    yea my car is lowered about an inch and a half, it doesnt rub now with the 245/45/17's and i was thinking of getting the 255/40/17's but dont want to encounter any rubbing.. anyone run these tires front and back on 9" rims on a 91-93 fox lowered?
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    255/40/17 or 245/45/17

    I have a 91 GT with 9" wide cobra R's all around.. what tire will be a better fit for the rim/car? what tire will cause less rubbing? i have 245/45/17's now.
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    What else could it be!!?? help please

    i tightend the wheel bearings as per spec in my manual with a torque wrench, plus the are brand new as well as the rotors and ball joints.... so the only remaining parts that it could be are the tie rods.. they are getting replaced as soon as my new tires get here.
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    What else could it be!!?? help please

    When i did the test i jacked up one side at a time, and did the test while the other side was on the ground. so besides the inner/outer tie rod ends what could it be? if i replace those should it fix the problem?
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    What else could it be!!?? help please

    This weekend I installed new front wheel bearings/rotors (cause the rotors were old and fugly) and MOOG balljoints, trying to correct my problem. The problem is when i jack my car up and grab the wheels at 9:00 and 3:00 there is a fair amount of play. there is very little play @ 12:00 and 6:00...
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    Alignment without caster/camber plates... grind the stock bracket?

    i remember a while ago some of you guys on here saying that you can enlongate one of the holes on the top strut mount to gain more camber with the stock plates. can someone that has done this explain and post a pic if possible?
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    new balljoints - alignment needed?

    im getting new tires in 2 weeks any ways, plus the car drives straight as an arrow with no shakes, so i think i will hold off. seeing as my tires are already nice and worn, a little more wear wont hurt them.