10 sec n/a 347's and 408's need info

this is all goind into my former turbocharged 93 coupe as listed above the car is stripped tubualr k etc the suspension cant get no more done than it is

drag springs coil overs front
rear upper/lower upr's adj and anti roll -2 pinion angle etc it will go 10's with my setup listed above and be very streeable i betcha it goes 10.50's i got a nice 300 hit of juice for it after that i wasnt sure like most of you then i started searchign and reading alot of posts green92lx is in and alot of good info from rick at rnh in those posts...

im gonna use hyd roller cam also 6800 rpm shift point there has to be hyd roller cams that will do that here is a question though will stock lifters and 1.6.1 fms rockers be ok for 6800 or should i girdle those rockers
 
Some remove weight by the way of the a/c, powersteering, cruise control, k-member, etc...

Some of the ways to remove weight aren't very streetable in my opinion.

I know a few on here, in order to save just a little weight will get 3/8" studs instead of 7/16" studs on their heads...lol. Less weight right?
 
91lxntch said:
this is all goind into my former turbocharged 93 coupe as listed above the car is stripped tubualr k etc the suspension cant get no more done than it is

drag springs coil overs front
rear upper/lower upr's adj and anti roll -2 pinion angle etc it will go 10's with my setup listed above and be very streeable i betcha it goes 10.50's i got a nice 300 hit of juice for it after that i wasnt sure like most of you then i started searchign and reading alot of posts green92lx is in and alot of good info from rick at rnh in those posts...

im gonna use hyd roller cam also 6800 rpm shift point there has to be hyd roller cams that will do that here is a question though will stock lifters and 1.6.1 fms rockers be ok for 6800 or should i girdle those rockers
300 SHOT!!?!?!?!?!?! what cam are you going to be running? You need a pretty decent sized cam for that big of a shot to take its full effect:shrug: Kinda like putting a 250shot on a stock 5.0 will run just as fast as a stock 5.0 with a 150 shot. . . . the cam/heads can only take in so much!
 
That guy shifted around 6,500-6,600rpm.

1.466 60 ft. (as was said, it will need one heck of a suspension).

No a/c, and some weight reduction...with higher compression that I would like on a real street car (aka, daily driver).
 
Proven motor combo that went into the 10's with no tuning:

408 (standard .030 over)
4" stroke,6.25" rod,1.250" comp. hiegth on piston,slight in the bore (not sure how much,probably about .005)
.046 head gasket with 65cc, so it was high 11's on static compression.

Heads were TEA 205cc Twisted Wedge (mine was actuly a set of Track Heats I had sent to them,same thing just no EGR),port matched Victor Jr,Cam Motion custom hydrualic roller (just over .600 lift on the intake,and just below that on the exhaust and I believe it was around 250/260 int./ext. duration @ .050 lift.It had a 111* LS angle),BG 950 Speed Demon RS with annular boosters (dont know,I probably would have choosen a Holley if I had to do it again,lol),and exhaust was a simple BBK 1 3/4" with the flange cut and a standard 3-bolt welded on,and 3" exhaust to dumps (no crossover).

Add: Oh,and this was being shifted about 7200rpm's,had Crane lifters,witch are alot better than factory.
 
As far as the cam for the 347, is this a dedicated nitrous motor? With the "gas" you will make a tremendous amount of extra torque whic will help with the rpm situation. It would probably be worth getting a custom nitrous cam if you want the most gains on the gas. It will hurt the times on motor but the gains with nitrous will make up for it. Comp Cams tech does a good job at cam selection, they take out the guess work.
 
347 B50 block, 11:1 comp, AFR 205s, TFS Box intake, AFM N91 cam, 90mm tb, 80mm MAF, 38lb injectors, UCC 5500 converter, C4, 28" ET Drags, 3250lb race weight. 10.75 @ 125.

Seems pretty simple to me. I don't drive it on the street but it wouldn't be a problem I had to.
 
Redsnk95 said:
347 B50 block, 11:1 comp, AFR 205s, TFS Box intake, AFM N91 cam, 90mm tb, 80mm MAF, 38lb injectors, UCC 5500 converter, C4, 28" ET Drags, 3250lb race weight. 10.75 @ 125.

Seems pretty simple to me. I don't drive it on the street but it wouldn't be a problem I had to.

I agree with you, your compression ratio is friendly. Everyone on here is talking about "all this suspension needed" and you probably know as well as I a whole bunch of street cars (foxes, classics, maybe yours) running stock style suspension set ups deep into the 10's with 347's with resonable compression & RPM.

We are talking NA here as well and while I totally agree that more cubes from a big windsor would make it more streetable than a 302 based motor there are many 347's out there running in the 10's that are true NA street cars.

Mine has as good of manners as any with a hydraulic roller cam and I am running bottom 11's on 5 leaf reverse eye leaf springs, cheap shocks and a rear sway bar. Is the chassis firmed up with a cage and subframes connectors? yes but it is also a 40 year old unibody (far from major suspension mods) I even have heavy front coils springs on mine with upper control arms built for handling, not drag racing and it hooks on Hoosier 26X9.5X15's. Like I said before I made some changes so I guess I should not assume it will still hook as hard as it did and again, it is only a low 11 second car and I know that step from 11's to 10 anything is a big one. However, I am going to put some light front coils on mine and maybe some 90/10 drag shocks and a traction aid over the winter. But its not like I am going to ladder bar or 4 link it.

My 2 cents....
 
allready stated in a previous post i have suspension taken care of it couldnt get any more done than it is for a stock style setup....i have a cage and it is tied into the car i got all that taken care of....yes im gonna use a 300 shot give or take i want a car to run good on motor and spray but more so on motor i will have a custom cam made..i was thinking of going with a afm n-91 or n-111 but im running a 3.73 gear and 28x12.50 et streets those cams are suggesting a higher gear and not sure how they are on sprayso i will have a cam made to work both ways....11.1 is the compresion im going with it will get 94 pump gas now we have race fuel in stock so if i want to i will use it at will ...vic jrs and a vic intake a nice 750 mech sec w/annular boosters it will work nicely i think esp with the custom cam ..i will not stop till i reach bottom 9 sec passes on spray if the car runs 10's on the motor it will run low 9's on spray im sure of it.....we will see...im sending payment for dart motor and my cam this week so i will let everyone know how it goes..i basically jotted down my tentitive plan and i will adjust accordinly as i go but with my combo and light car i dont fro see a prob with it...it must remain a street car first and foremost but it isnt a daily driver and i dont care about gas mileage thanks for the info im looking more for people that have done it and there setups im nto new to fast cars and mustangs ive had many fast ones but i am a lil new to carbs hi revving and so on ill get it though
 
I went 10.76@129 at Race City in Calgary where the DA is typically between 5000 and 6000 ft. in my 90 coupe which is a true N/A street car on 91 octane pump gas. The car also made a 134.6 MPH pass at Castrol Raceway in Edmonton, which is another high elevation track. I also made several 1.48 60' passes on 28x10.5 ET Drags. The car made 530 HP at the wheels on a Mustang MD-600 chassis dyno. Here's a brief breakdown on the setup:

Dart block
Billet internals
TEA Victor 395 heads
Ported Super Victor intake, EFI conversion
Comp Custom solid roller cam
105mm Throttle Body and cold air
dual 3.5" exhaust, flowmaster 50 series mufflers
SDS engine management
TKO 600
McLeod Soft-Lok Clutch
10 pt Wolfe Racecraft cage
Stock front suspension
Bolt on rear suspension - control arms, shocks, that's it
Built 8.8" rear end, 4.56 gears

We were not satisfied with the best ET this year and are pretty sure we can run quicker, especially at Castrol, however we didn't get the car finished until mid August. Anyway, running a 10.76 in Calgary is pretty close to a 10 flat at a low track like Mission BC, plus we think that a 530 on the Mustang Dyno is pretty impressive for 91 octane pump gas in an N/A setup.

One poster indicated that his TKO 600 would not shift at high RPM but I shift this combination at 8000 RPM and it works fine. I suspect the main problem with shifting the TKO, or any other transmission in the 7000 RPM range is not the transmission but the clutch since most street type clutches will not release in those high RPM ranges.

I don't know if this helps you out or not, and if you are running at a typical low elevation track you won't need nearly as many fancy parts to make a 10.99 pass, but I'm not sure you are going to do it with your proposed configuration. A bigger carb, intake, and a solid roller will certainly help. I assume that you already have or plan to have the Vic jr heads ported. If not, they are probably too small as well. On the juice, excepting the carb maybe, I think those parts will probably make a 10.x pass at a low track.

You can see some video of the car here: http://www.tecmotion.ca/race.htm

Good luck with your project in any event.

-Matthew
 
i may be wrong but i think you will be wasting alot of nitrous spraying 300. . . . im willing to bet you run the same times on a 250shot as you do a 300 as i believe there is so much that displacement,heads,cam and intake with take!. Never the less, good luck and i hope you succeed in your quest for 9s. . . hopefully everything goes smooth (nothing ever does lol) and you are having to get chassis certification before next season :)
 
At least my nitrous man says you can add that much spray to a car, says he's done some like that. So it may work fine. I don't have the cage, tires, axle, etc for that level yet, but with a light car, dialed in, I think a 10 sec run is possible with a 302 based na motor.
 
You WILL need suspension work. Stock suspension will not cut it. Show me a real street car that hits 10's with a 347...on stock suspension...

We can't just throw slicks on the back of a car either, that is dangerous to the rear-end parts. A real street car doesn't need to be "hit or miss"

You have to upgrade...suspension and then rear as well to be reliable at the track and street.
 
my suspension is done..oh you were talking to him...my rear is done also... im not just planning on building the motor and slapping a 300 shot on it and going i know there is some tuning and possibly a fuel system totally seperate for the spray i just didnt want to list every single part in this thread..im more worried about the motor build....

does anyone know of a complete carb fuel system minus carb...