1965 KH Proportioning Valve Rebuild Help!

65poppy · May 19, 2011

So, I have a 1965 2+2 with factory disc brakes. I'm rebuilding the proportioning valve and I have it all taken apart. But now I'm stuck. Are the internal valves supposed to come apart? Here's what I have:

I got the retaining ring off...

But I can't get the little piston to slip off of the big piston...

It seems to be stuck. Should I force it off?

Thanks,
Steve-o

hipo_p51 · May 19, 2011

Long ago I had mine rebuilt after I tore it apart. It looked pretty good compared to that rust mess you have. I have heard storys of rebuilds that still leaked. Go to the hipo exchange (hipomustang.com) and search that forum. I bet you will find the answer you need.

2+2GT · May 20, 2011

you may find this informative:

http://www.stangerssite.com/brakevalve.html

65poppy · May 20, 2011

2+2GT said:
you may find this informative:

http://www.stangerssite.com/brakevalve.html

Hi Thanks. I visited the Stangersite and it shows that valve body can be disassembled. I was wondering if anyone on this site has first-hand experience with rebuilding the proportioning valve.

I suppose I could force the big valve off, but I don't want to screw the assembly up. According to Stangerssite the stuff is made from soft aluminum...easy to warp...

I could always just replace the seals and be done with it. But Stangerssite suggests disassembly for cleaning.

Any input would be appreciated!

Thanks,
Steve-o

2+2GT · May 20, 2011

65poppy said:

View attachment 188546

I must be missing something. Looks to me like it's already apart. I would toss it in a self-agitating carburetor cleaner for an hour and see how it looks.

65poppy · May 20, 2011

2+2GT said:
View attachment 188521

I must be missing something. Looks to me like it's already apart. I would toss it in a self-agitating carburetor cleaner for an hour and see how it looks.

Yeah, I'll drop it in a bucket of Chemdip and leave it overnight. It is supposed to come apart more than it already is. See below:

I can't get the "Outer Piston" off of the "Inner Piston". I'm wondering if anyone has ever done this rebuild on their own?

Thanks,
Steve-o

65poppy · May 21, 2011

2+2GT said:
View attachment 188479

I must be missing something. Looks to me like it's already apart. I would toss it in a self-agitating carburetor cleaner for an hour and see how it looks.

Alrighty now...I dropped the Piston assembly in a bucket of chem-dip and left it overnight. Sure enough, the pistons slid apart in the morning.

I did my best to clean them up:

Then reassembles the piston assembly, making sure the seals were correctly orientated:

Then reassembles the proportioning valve:

Now I'll put it back on the Mustang, connect all of the brake lines and cross my fingers!

2+2GT · May 21, 2011

Nice. Don't forget the splotch of yellow paint.

hipo_p51 · May 21, 2011

Looks nice, hopefully it wont leak on your well finished engine compartment. =D

65poppy · May 21, 2011

2+2GT said:
Nice. Don't forget the splotch of yellow paint.

I was thinking about that. Do you think they all had the same splotch of yellow paint? Also, I think the "cast iron" gray paint on the Stangerssite valve is too light. I just sand blasted and applied clear to mine.

I'm also going to refinish all the machines areas (with a wire brush) and re-clear the unit. Visually, I think it'll pass mustard. I just hope it'll stop the car!

Steve-o

65poppy · May 21, 2011

hipo_p51 said:
Looks nice, hopefully it wont leak on your well finished engine compartment. =D

Thanks..haha. But really, that would really be a bummer. Where do theses things most commonly leak? At the lines or on a particular end (the end witht e C-clip or the end with the adjustment bolt?

Steve-o

2+2GT · May 21, 2011

The OE color was a non-metallic dove blue-grey paint, as in the image I posted. I think the yellow paint was applied by K/H to show it had been adjusted for correct pressure.

hipo_p51 · May 21, 2011

65poppy said:
Thanks..haha. But really, that would really be a bummer. Where do theses things most commonly leak? At the lines or on a particular end (the end witht e C-clip or the end with the adjustment bolt?

Steve-o

my leaked at the adjust end, just a little, but enough for me to remove it and install an aftermarket version. I had my rebuilt by someone who has done many. I have read it is common for them to leak, even after a good rebuild.

65poppy · May 22, 2011

2+2GT said:
The OE color was a non-metallic dove blue-grey paint, as in the image I posted. I think the yellow paint was applied by K/H to show it had been adjusted for correct pressure.

My 1694.5 - 1973 Mustang Detailing Guide" (K.A. Helm 1985) states: 'Brake Proportioning Valve - Natural Cast iron, union natural'.

But when I was sanblasing the valve body I thought I could see where paint was still present aroung the R and M. I was wondering about that, because the valve body has never been rebuilt as far as I could tell (and hence, if there was paint, it had to have been factory paint.)

Does anyone know what the MCA judging rules are for the finish on the proportioning valve?

Thanks,
Steve-o

1965 KH Proportioning Valve Rebuild Help!

65poppy

New Member

hipo_p51

Member

2+2GT

65poppy

New Member

2+2GT

65poppy

New Member

65poppy

New Member

2+2GT

hipo_p51

Member

65poppy

New Member

65poppy

New Member

2+2GT

hipo_p51

Member

65poppy

New Member

Similar threads

1965 KH Proportioning Valve Rebuild Help!

New Member

Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

Member

New Member

New Member

Member

New Member

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency