1966 Carb?
- Thread starter Fast Eddiejr
- Start date
Thankyou yep that's it. Set timing set mixture purring good went out got gas coming up to my house got on it to listen for knocks under load stalled wouldn't start again for an hour 90!degrees out. Cooled off fired right back up, when it was hot would turn key it would fire and stall fire and stall. Choke open. Newly remanufactured carb 2016 on fresh rebuild 200. Man restored car put new manifold andsaid carb on that's it.
you need you one of these;
https://www.vintageinlines.com/product-page/1v-phenolic-carb-spacer
it will help prevent heat soak by blocking the heat from the intake.
https://www.vintageinlines.com/product-page/1v-phenolic-carb-spacer
it will help prevent heat soak by blocking the heat from the intake.
Heat soak is a new term for me but the more I research how this happened the excessive heat of the day and where the carb is in relation to the manifold: this makes a lot of sense. The heat index was 99-100 yesterday and it runs perfect in the air conditioned shop it is stored in.
Thankyou
Fast Eddie
Heat soak is a new term for me but the more I research how this happened the excessive heat of the day and where the carb is in relation to the manifold: this makes a lot of sense. The heat index was 99-100 yesterday and it runs perfect in the air conditioned shop it is stored in.
Thankyou
Fast Eddie
One other question. Investigating this situation a little further it's been brought to my attention that the motor may have been hopped up 200 6 cylinder bored .10 with mild cam???
Does a 2100 Carb help for this situation? The owner is suggesting it.
I only know this to be for the 289 which is what I had on my 66...
Thankyou for your help
Does a 2100 Carb help for this situation? The owner is suggesting it.
I only know this to be for the 289 which is what I had on my 66...
Thankyou for your help
a 2100 carb does do well on the small six, and you have two options there, the best is a direct mount, but that means pulling the head and having machine work done. the other option is a 2v to 1v adapter, the only drawback to that is you lose hood clearance. vintageinlines.com carriers the adapters you need to make that conversion.
i used a 2100 autolite on my old 66 falcon with the 170, and it worked nicely with the 2v to 1v adapter. there was a bit of an issue in getting the idle to run cleanly though, but with a little effort it can be done.
i used a 2100 autolite on my old 66 falcon with the 170, and it worked nicely with the 2v to 1v adapter. there was a bit of an issue in getting the idle to run cleanly though, but with a little effort it can be done.
bartl
Active Member
ValkyriePilot
New Member
I am having similar issues. Heat soak is also a new term to me but makes sense. I had no issues for two summers in extreme heat, but now have problems in anything over 80 degrees outside, cooler it can also happen just takes longer to manifest itself. Any thoughts to why this problem did not exist for 3,ooo miles and suddenly it does?
hard to say. perhaps you carb needs to have some work done on it, IE the needle and seat are not sealing like they should, airflow through the engine compartment has somehow changed, the center of the exhaust manifold is running hotter than normal. or perhaps you changed your driving a bit, you might have left the car sit longer in the past and that let things cool down a bit, and now you are in and out of your car more often giving no real time to let things cool off a bit.
any changes to the engine? timing, etc.?
ValkyriePilot
New Member
Nothing has changed about driving habits, tune or time (although I've tuned and timed it since the problem started). The guy I bought it from admitted he didn't know much about working on cars and learned on this one. I'm not much better but have already cleaned up lots of little messes with a list left to go. I'm going to start with the rebuild and probably try the 2100 swap out this winter. Thanks for the help
Looks like I gave this patient the treatment she needed.
Hard starting
Wouldn't stay running stalled and wouldn't restart after a few minutes
1. Automatic choke housing was loose and not set properly
2. Timing off
3. Idle and fast idle off
4. Idle mixture off
5. Rubber fuel line section severely cracked
6. Metal fuel line too close to motor
7. Top carburetor screws loose
8. Lower carb base plate screws loose
9. Made sure 160 thermostat present and functional
10. Hot air vacuum line attached to fuel line whole distance
11. Installed Phenolic 3/16 spacer to base of carb to dissipate heat
12. Installed 5/8 thermoflex fuel line (good up to 750 degrees) covering entire length of fuel line
Ran for 25' yesterday in 87/99heat index weather with motor at 75% of temp guage towards "H" prior to this at 50% of operating temp would progressively studder quickly and stall then wouldn't restart for 90'. After that would start run perfectly then repeat presenting with Vapor Lock symptoms.
The 200 6 cylinder with The Autolite 1100 is notorious for vapor lock due to location directly above horizontal manifold.
Purring like a kitten now
Fast Eddie, Have you ever gotten your carb issues straightened out? If not, I have a Weber progressive 2 barrel and adapter that came off of my daughter's 200ci 6. Very prcey but it cured it's carb problems once and for all. If you're interested, contact me at [email protected].
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