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1966 Mustang Front Wheel Bearing wobble

  • Thread starter Thread starter 3ohh2
  • Start date Start date Apr 6, 2018

3ohh2

New Member
Jul 21, 2006
6
0
1
NoVA
Apr 6, 2018
#1
  • Apr 6, 2018
  • #1
Hello all,

Been awhile since I’ve posted but I need some help from the forum- I’ve created a front wheel bearing issue with my ’66 Mustang that I cannot figure out. I’ve made numerous attempts to repair as I will explain here and yes- I’ve searched but have been unable to resolve. So here goes… About 3 weeks ago, I had a soft brake pedal and decided to check it out. Expecting to find leaking wheel cylinders or other issue, everything looked good so I left untouched- the car sits around a lot these days and the fluid in the master cylinder was low. Topped it off and brakes are strong again. While I was in there, I notice crusty outer front wheel bearings and decided it was time to replace both front driver and passenger inner and outer wheel bearings. Mind you, the car was driving perfectly fine at the time- I could get it up to highway speeds with no sounds, wobble, etc. Just crusty old grease that hadn’t been changed in a long time was my decision to change them out. So I started the process- took off the drum-hub assembly, removed the inner oil seal, removed the bearings, tapped out the inner and outer races with a hammer and punch, tapped the new races in until they bottomed out, packed the new inner and outer bearings real good with grease and set them in the races, tapped in the new inner oil seal and reinstalled the drum-hub on the spindle, washer, bolted down the lock nut and set the preload to torque spec, backed it off and set it to final torque spec, castle nut, cotter pin, dust cap and wheels back on. I only did the passenger side then went for my test drive. At first, in reverse and low gear everything seems fine but then approaching 30mph there is a noticeable wobble and knocking sound coming from the front passenger wheel. After disassembling multiple times to inspect the wheel for any 12to6 or 9to3 movement (none), suspension components (newer and no play), spindle (looks good), make sure the races have bottomed out (sound), changing the new bearings & races out again with my other new set (not a new parts problem), resetting pre-load about ten different ways (high/low specs, hand tight), etc, etc… none of the normal problems were screaming at me. New bearings used were the same manufacturer as the old ones. So then I swapped the drum-hub assembly over to the driver’s side and with a test drive the problem has followed over. So my problem is inside the drum-hub-bearing assembly that I was working on. The process of swapping sides did involve me setting what was the untouched drivers side drum-hub assembly over on passenger side- I’m not sure if this eliminates an installer issue but I thought I’d mention it. All this being said, I’m now stuck on what the problem could be or what steps to take next…. I still feel like it’s got to be a bearing issue because of the knocking sound but cant find it. I’m open to any suggestions at this point… maybe an imbalance issue with the drum to hub? Any suggestions are appreciated in advance.

Thanks.
 

WORTH

20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 18, 2002
2,166
44
98
Cape Cod, Ma.
Apr 8, 2018
#2
  • Apr 8, 2018
  • #2
Have the drum turned. You may have bent it when you did the bearings. And it will tell you if it is bent as soon as they put it on the brake lathe. If it isn't bent , buy a new one anyway, if the problem followed the drum, the drum is the problem.
 

horse sence

15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
12,276
8,131
233
Wile Coyote's stunt double
Apr 8, 2018
#3
  • Apr 8, 2018
  • #3
Dig you happen to get a 70 outer bearing by mistake ? The spindle is larger at the threaded end than the early years ,that would make the knocking sound and the wabble
 

tos

Founding Member
Apr 27, 2001
896
68
59
Cincinnati Ohio
Apr 10, 2018
#4
  • Apr 10, 2018
  • #4
Are you saying after you set your final load that there is no play and then you drive it and the problem shows up?
When you pushed/knocked the old races out could you possibly have gouged the bore leaving a bur? This could keep you from seating the race completely or squarely.
So while driving around the race is moving because its not really "bottomed out"
 

3ohh2

New Member
Jul 21, 2006
6
0
1
NoVA
Apr 14, 2018
#5
  • Apr 14, 2018
  • #5
tos, that's correct. I set the pre-load, backed it off a half turn, torqued down to the final load spec, then checked for top-to-bottom and side-to-side play with the wheel off the ground. Did this multiple times trying the high and low # torque specs with no play at all. Test drove after each attempt. The wobble and knock sound shows up everytime approaching 30mph.

horse sence, I purchased identical make/model bearings as my replacements. After a number of failed attempts and using both of my new bearing sets, I cleaned out and repacked my original crusty bearings/races and threw them back in but still have the same issue. I don't see or feel any gouges in the hub or to the tappered inner sides or outer body sides of the races but agree I might have an issue with the races not being completely bottomed out- creating an imbalance. I used a hammer and small punch to tap the races in slowly, working in a circular pattern but I did't have an appropriately sized socket to use to tap in square as I've seen suggested- seating the races properly might be my issue. Although I did get the solid sound when tapping around the race to suggest it was "bottomed out". This will be my next attempt and if it doesn't work, it's off to the shop to put a second set of eyes on it and to put it on a lathe as WORTH suggested, the issue could very well be elsewhere.

Thanks all for the help.
 

horse sence

15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
12,276
8,131
233
Wile Coyote's stunt double
Apr 14, 2018
#6
  • Apr 14, 2018
  • #6
How about a ball joint or a tie rod end . We just did a 2005 Mustand tie rod end ,at 55 or over the front had a shimmy ,turned out to be the tie rod end ,replaced it and no more shimmy,and it also made a clanking sound
 

WORTH

20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 18, 2002
2,166
44
98
Cape Cod, Ma.
Apr 14, 2018
#7
  • Apr 14, 2018
  • #7
Horse sence, he moved the problem to the other side when he swapped the drums. I'd put that hub and drum on a lathe to see if it's true.
 

manicmechanic007

5 Year Member
Sep 26, 2017
2,534
714
143
Roy, Utah
Aug 4, 2021
#8
  • Aug 4, 2021
  • #8
A common mistake is to not get the races pressed or banged into the drum far enough. Then when you go drive it the races will install themselves further into the hub by lateral force and then the bearings are way loose. This happens twice or thrice until you pull it back apart to press the races all the way in. Adding fluid and now ok? You had air was the sponge problem and bleed is the fix. I used to drive a 66 to high school over a mountain pass every day. Whoa buddy! You go John! You will get it. Think gravity when bleeding. They mostly gravity bleed themselves and then foot pressure at the end. Bleed the master first
 
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