• Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

1980 Ford Fairmont 302 Hydraulic Conversion

  • Thread starter Thread starter Joshb99
  • Start date Start date Aug 7, 2017
J

Joshb99

New Member
Aug 7, 2017
6
0
1
Aug 7, 2017
#1
  • Aug 7, 2017
  • #1
Hi I am new to this forum and have some questions regarding the 1980 fairmont 302 block. This is my very first project and I am very excited, I have learned so much about engines through this.

When I got the engine it already had hydraulic lifters and a hydraulic cam but it is a solid roller block. I purchased both the retainers and the guide for the lifters but have run into a problem with the guide bolt holes. Since it is a 1980 block the 1985+ kit will not work. It seems that the only problem is the bolt holes that secure the guide. I have looked everywhere for information on this and I have come up with three conclusions: buy all new linked lifters, revert back to the solid cam and lifters, or drill a hole in the guide to match the holes in the block. I have never read about anyone drilling the holes but I cannot find the right guide for my application.

My question is can I just drill the holes or do I need to change lifters.

Without Guide:
With Guide:

The blue is where I would have to drill the holes to match the block and the red is where the holes on the guide are located. I am sorry about the bad picture quality. Thank you all in advance!! I have used this forum many times along my build and am glad to be a part of it now!
 

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL
In Remembrance. Thank you for your contributions
Mar 10, 2000
27,512
2,813
234
Dublin GA
Aug 7, 2017
#2
  • Aug 7, 2017
  • #2
Joshb99 said:
Hi I am new to this forum and have some questions regarding the 1980 fairmont 302 block. This is my very first project and I am very excited, I have learned so much about engines through this.

When I got the engine it already had hydraulic lifters and a hydraulic cam but it is a solid roller block. I purchased both the retainers and the guide for the lifters but have run into a problem with the guide bolt holes. Since it is a 1980 block the 1985+ kit will not work. It seems that the only problem is the bolt holes that secure the guide. I have looked everywhere for information on this and I have come up with three conclusions: buy all new linked lifters, revert back to the solid cam and lifters, or drill a hole in the guide to match the holes in the block. I have never read about anyone drilling the holes but I cannot find the right guide for my application.

My question is can I just drill the holes or do I need to change lifters.

Without Guide:
With Guide:

The blue is where I would have to drill the holes to match the block and the red is where the holes on the guide are located. I am sorry about the bad picture quality. Thank you all in advance!! I have used this forum many times along my build and am glad to be a part of it now!
Click to expand...

Get a better camera so we can accurately estimate what is needed. You photos are so blurry that it obscures what you are trying to show.
 
J

Joshb99

New Member
Aug 7, 2017
6
0
1
Aug 7, 2017
#3
  • Aug 7, 2017
  • #3
Sorry my phones camera lens got smashed, that is the best I can currently do.
This picture is off the internet of the same block. The pre-drilled holes in the guide are right above the number.
 

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL
In Remembrance. Thank you for your contributions
Mar 10, 2000
27,512
2,813
234
Dublin GA
Aug 8, 2017
#4
  • Aug 8, 2017
  • #4
The guide has the ridge pressed in to make the guide rigid; don't drill holes in it.

Take the block and the guide to the engine machine shop and have them drill wholes in the block that match the guides.

If they mess it up, they own it.
 
J

Joshb99

New Member
Aug 7, 2017
6
0
1
Aug 8, 2017
#5
  • Aug 8, 2017
  • #5
Do you think that this would be more cost effective than getting link bar lifters and the engine needs the guide to run properly correct?
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
27,924
10,569
203
polk county florida
Aug 8, 2017
#6
  • Aug 8, 2017
  • #6
There was a discussion on this years ago on another foum
http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0-5-8-engine-tech/976819-converting-302-roller.html
The problems seem to be the bosses in the lifter valley and the height of the lifter bores, if the block does not have the bosses to drill and tap for the spider it seems there would be a problem with getting proper oiling to the lifters, linked roller lifters would be a safe bet I think in this case. Do more research before plunking down any money on the 5.0 roller setup.
 
J

Joshb99

New Member
Aug 7, 2017
6
0
1
Aug 8, 2017
#7
  • Aug 8, 2017
  • #7
So non-roller blocks that do not have the holes for the spider will not be oiled correctly with the spider in or drilling the holes will affect the lubrication of the engine? While I was away I began to think and maybe I can create a bracket to hold the spider in.
This is the first design, I will drill the hole where the sharpie is. I have checked clearance and it is fine. I will also make another design very similar where the bracket screws onto the top and not the bottom.
 

RangerJoe

I leave the horn on while driving
15 Year Member
Apr 26, 2010
2,560
1,146
184
Georgia
Aug 8, 2017
#8
  • Aug 8, 2017
  • #8
If your block is a non roller, which it is, you cannot use the spider hold down and stock style lifters. Your only option is to use a set of link bar style roller lifters. As stated above, the oiling provisions inside the lifter bores are not in the right place for the stock style lifters.

Joe
 
J

Joshb99

New Member
Aug 7, 2017
6
0
1
Aug 8, 2017
#9
  • Aug 8, 2017
  • #9
Thank you I definitely will not put that in my engine. Can you recommend any link bar lifters for my application (seat height)?
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
27,924
10,569
203
polk county florida
Aug 8, 2017
#10
  • Aug 8, 2017
  • #10
Ranger joe is correct, however, according to the article linked you can do it but it requires a small base circle cam, a lot of trouble to go through for roller lifters, if your dead set on using roller lifters:
86 or newer 5.0 block, plug and play, easy peasy
Link bar rollers, more money, head has to be off to install/remove (I think),
Drill/tap holes for spyder, shim spyder for correct height, small base circle cam, I think you will be limited in valve lift too.
Flat tappet cam, plug and play, if you have a good block and are ready to build go with the flat tappet cam, nothing wrong with them, just a specific break in procedure. Do your homework, study your options, count your pennies and venture forth into horse power nirvana,
Oh, and there's a test on friday.
 

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL
In Remembrance. Thank you for your contributions
Mar 10, 2000
27,512
2,813
234
Dublin GA
Aug 8, 2017
#11
  • Aug 8, 2017
  • #11
RangerJoe said:
If your block is a non roller, which it is, you cannot use the spider hold down and stock style lifters. Your only option is to use a set of link bar style roller lifters. As stated above, the oiling provisions inside the lifter bores are not in the right place for the stock style lifters.

Joe
Click to expand...
He's right - the roller blocks have a deeper hole for the lifters to sit in because the roller lifters are taller than a flat tappet lifter.
 
J

Joshb99

New Member
Aug 7, 2017
6
0
1
Aug 8, 2017
#12
  • Aug 8, 2017
  • #12
1980's 302's have hydraulic flat tappet lifters right?
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
27,924
10,569
203
polk county florida
Aug 8, 2017
#13
  • Aug 8, 2017
  • #13
Joshb99 said:
1980's 302's have hydraulic flat tappet lifters right?
Click to expand...
Right
 

EDC

Founding Member
Apr 25, 2001
342
63
58
In the new shop... 24/7
Aug 12, 2017
#14
  • Aug 12, 2017
  • #14
NEVER use a reduced base circle camshaft.

A set of Morel link bar lifters, the correct camshaft and push rods is the proper method to update a non-roller block.

This system avoids the potential failure of a twenty year old spider and dog bone from a junkyard engine as well as the valvetrain instability of a pencil thick cam core.

I do these conversion kits all the time for my customers.
 
Reactions: Davedacarpainter

Davedacarpainter

Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...
SN Certified Technician
Nov 28, 2015
11,833
11,633
203
Discordia
Aug 12, 2017
#15
  • Aug 12, 2017
  • #15
Ed here is the guy to listen to about this. It's what he does for a living and is well known for it.
 

RangerJoe

I leave the horn on while driving
15 Year Member
Apr 26, 2010
2,560
1,146
184
Georgia
Aug 12, 2017
#16
  • Aug 12, 2017
  • #16
Wow! When was Ed's last post on SN?!

Joe
 

Davedacarpainter

Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...
SN Certified Technician
Nov 28, 2015
11,833
11,633
203
Discordia
Aug 12, 2017
#17
  • Aug 12, 2017
  • #17
It wasn't too long ago.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
27,924
10,569
203
polk county florida
Aug 12, 2017
#18
  • Aug 12, 2017
  • #18
July 12 2017
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
27,924
10,569
203
polk county florida
Aug 12, 2017
#19
  • Aug 12, 2017
  • #19
The information I gave was from an old thread from another forum, it was a few years old and obvious just one way of doing it, according to Ed is not the way to do it, he is the authority on the subject and I would blindly follow him into camshaft bliss.
 
Reactions: Davedacarpainter
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

H
Ongoing Battle With Hydraulic Lifters
  • hailer06
  • Jun 8, 2026
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
7
Views
284
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Jun 9, 2026
Noobz347
D
Early ford 302 heads
  • Dagasser
  • May 4, 2026
  • The Welcome Wagon
Replies
1
Views
79
The Welcome Wagon May 4, 2026
Noobz347
6
Hey all,I’m putting together a 302 for my 1968 Mustang and wanted to post the combo + some questions to make sure I’m not missing crucial
  • 68_Disgustang
  • Feb 22, 2026
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
Replies
4
Views
882
1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk- Jun 20, 2026
gray owl
G
Engine Suggestions on an engine rebuild. Stock cam/GT40Ps or aftermarket on both for a fun weekend driver?
  • MadSquirrelTech
  • Apr 28, 2026
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
  • 2
Replies
23
Views
807
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech May 7, 2026
MadSquirrelTech
For Sale Ford 331 stroker engine for sale - with options!
  • TTSaleen
  • Jul 1, 2026
  • Engine and Power Adder
Replies
6
Views
248
Engine and Power Adder Jul 2, 2026
Noobz347
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?