my 1996 gt will get the fuel cuttoofff after i driving around and especially when its a hot day. i live in az. and the hotter the day the quicker the fuel or spark will get cut off. ive changed so far the fuel pump and sending unit, the fuel filter, the fuel preassure regulator and the idle air control valve. also i have ohmed out the 2 coil packs and seem good.any ideas. today was cut off while i was on the highway. hellpppp!
1996 gt cutting off when warm.
- Thread starter jdarius
- Start date
trombonedemon
Well-Known Member
My first thoughts would be to test the fuel pump pressure and volume and to ask if this stalling problem occurs more if the fuel tank is FULL or near EMPTY.?????.
My next thoughts would be to remove the intake air hose to physically see the throttle plate and see if it is covered with a blackish residue on the throttle plate and in the throttle bore and I would clean it out with some aerosol carb claener and clean off both sides of the throttle plate also. This is a very common problem with fuel injected engines and may need to be repeated several times in order to get all the residue cleaned off. It is possible that the oxygen sensor is also fouled with carbon and can be causing your stalling problem and can be removed and cleaned or replaced.There could problems with the FUEL PUMP PRESSURE REGULATOR on the fuel rail in the engine compartment and should be replaced.
My next thoughts would be to remove the intake air hose to physically see the throttle plate and see if it is covered with a blackish residue on the throttle plate and in the throttle bore and I would clean it out with some aerosol carb claener and clean off both sides of the throttle plate also. This is a very common problem with fuel injected engines and may need to be repeated several times in order to get all the residue cleaned off. It is possible that the oxygen sensor is also fouled with carbon and can be causing your stalling problem and can be removed and cleaned or replaced.There could problems with the FUEL PUMP PRESSURE REGULATOR on the fuel rail in the engine compartment and should be replaced.
I would not do any of what the above poster suggested, especially the TB cleaning. I do not know where you are coming up with that stuff Trombonedemon but it all seems to be pretty off the wall...
Assuming the car is up on the PM I would immediately suspect clogged cats. The stealership can test for clogged cats.
Assuming the car is up on the PM I would immediately suspect clogged cats. The stealership can test for clogged cats.
trombonedemon
Well-Known Member
Why not, these are just test, to figure whats going on at the time of the engine cutting off. The stuff Ford claims to keep the Throttle body clean goes away w/time. As we all know the car does not throw a code when it really needs to, so test as many of the factors as possible, Fuel, Fire, and Air. Thats the only way to track down something w/no code. I don't want him to go replace every sensor possible, just monitor.
To the Op, for future reference get yourself a diagnostic cable to go to your OBD2 port and your USB cable port, 10 to 20 dollars at the most and down load a monitor program (Easy OBD2), 10-20 dollars. You can monitor all the forementioned w/o an expensive OBD2 scanner.
To the Op, for future reference get yourself a diagnostic cable to go to your OBD2 port and your USB cable port, 10 to 20 dollars at the most and down load a monitor program (Easy OBD2), 10-20 dollars. You can monitor all the forementioned w/o an expensive OBD2 scanner.
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
To OP, how do you KNOW this is fuel cutting off? Has the fuel pressure been monitored and confirmed?
Have you cleaned the MAF (use cleaner designed for the job)?
If this is a case of the engine quitting/stalling when hot, some things that come to mind could be:
+1 on the suggestiong to get an ODB2 scanner. Many of the items can be ruled in/out by cross checking the PIDs as reported by the PCM.
Have you cleaned the MAF (use cleaner designed for the job)?
If this is a case of the engine quitting/stalling when hot, some things that come to mind could be:
- EGR value stuck open
- EVAP purge stuck open
- Bad IAT sensor (giving false excessively high readings).
- Bad engine coolant temperature (giving PCM false readings).
- Motor overheating activating "limp in" mode.
- Clogged cats (already mentioned and a good thing to rule out).
- Dirty MAF (clean it).
- leaking head gaskets
+1 on the suggestiong to get an ODB2 scanner. Many of the items can be ruled in/out by cross checking the PIDs as reported by the PCM.
obdii codes
the codes that i just read are p1504 and 1507. both have to do with idle air control valve which i just replaced. now when i just checked these codes the engine light was not on and the car runs. should i check the codes when the car stalls and the engine light comes on or does it matter?
the codes that i just read are p1504 and 1507. both have to do with idle air control valve which i just replaced. now when i just checked these codes the engine light was not on and the car runs. should i check the codes when the car stalls and the engine light comes on or does it matter?
The codes are stored in the memory, so you'll get the same codes if you check when the engine stalls. Don't bother.
Did you clear the codes after replacing the IAC? Could they be leftover from before?
The IAC keeps the engine running when you are not giving it gas. If the engine is struggling to stay alive while you are giving it gas, then you have bigger problems than just the IAC. If it just doesn't like to stay running between gears or when you aren't giving it gas, then the IAC is a likely problem.
Did you clear the codes after replacing the IAC? Could they be leftover from before?
The IAC keeps the engine running when you are not giving it gas. If the engine is struggling to stay alive while you are giving it gas, then you have bigger problems than just the IAC. If it just doesn't like to stay running between gears or when you aren't giving it gas, then the IAC is a likely problem.
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
Disconnecting the battery for a few minutes will reset the codes.
Note, after disconnecting the battery, EXPECT the idle to be poor. That's because the PCM has to re-learn the idle trim values. So don't expect an immediate improvement.
Try running the car for a full minute with the brake on AC off. Next run for a full minute with the AC on. This will help speed up the re-learning process.
I had a 96 GT automatic that was undriveable until this initial re-learn procedure was done (after a battery disconnect).
You didn't answer the question about how you knew the problem is still fuel related even after replacing all of the fuel system parts mentioned.
Also, have you adjusted the idle set screew on the throttle body? Have you cleaned the MAF?
Note, after disconnecting the battery, EXPECT the idle to be poor. That's because the PCM has to re-learn the idle trim values. So don't expect an immediate improvement.
Try running the car for a full minute with the brake on AC off. Next run for a full minute with the AC on. This will help speed up the re-learning process.
I had a 96 GT automatic that was undriveable until this initial re-learn procedure was done (after a battery disconnect).
You didn't answer the question about how you knew the problem is still fuel related even after replacing all of the fuel system parts mentioned.
Also, have you adjusted the idle set screew on the throttle body? Have you cleaned the MAF?
patman0911
Founding Member
I'm confused by this, um, sentence?
Do you mean that in addition to it dying at idle that if you're just driving along normally in gear with your foot on the gas it loses power and dies while the car is moving?
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