Test the voltage at the battery and if you can get it started also test the voltage from the alt. I doubt that's the issue but who knows. Check the ground wire because Fords are great for eating them. Look at the battery terminal connections for any sign of green coming out of the wire. If so, replace the wire.
I don't think that's your issue though. I think your crank sensor is dead. If the car starts just fine when cold but dies after it gets ANY heat in it then that senor is usually at fault.
Also when the engine died were you moving or at a stop or crawling in traffic or what? Is the car a stick or auto? When is the last time the fuel filter was changed? What mods does the car have? How many miles? Do you properly maintain it?
I don't think that's your issue though. I think your crank sensor is dead. If the car starts just fine when cold but dies after it gets ANY heat in it then that senor is usually at fault.
Also when the engine died were you moving or at a stop or crawling in traffic or what? Is the car a stick or auto? When is the last time the fuel filter was changed? What mods does the car have? How many miles? Do you properly maintain it?
Consider this could be a bad battery or loose battery cable.
Remember no battery = no alternator.
A prime symptom is the motor suddenly quitting for no apparent reason. Often restart is easy.
If anyone is thinking this couldn't possibly be a bad battery because the motor was running at the time, you would be mislead. The battery is required to excite the alternator's field coil. A sudden increase in electrical load can over whelm the weak battery's ability to maintain the field coil. This leads to the alternator shutting down.
Bottom line. Today's cars will not run right without a strong battery and charging system. Consider starting every electrical problem with a through review of the car's charging system. In the end, this will save you a ton of time.
Remember no battery = no alternator.
A prime symptom is the motor suddenly quitting for no apparent reason. Often restart is easy.
If anyone is thinking this couldn't possibly be a bad battery because the motor was running at the time, you would be mislead. The battery is required to excite the alternator's field coil. A sudden increase in electrical load can over whelm the weak battery's ability to maintain the field coil. This leads to the alternator shutting down.
Bottom line. Today's cars will not run right without a strong battery and charging system. Consider starting every electrical problem with a through review of the car's charging system. In the end, this will save you a ton of time.
One possibility that comes to mind is that the IAC isn't working at all. It's generally a bad idea to attempt to adjust the idle using the idle stop screw. It may appear to work for a time but will fail when the temperature changes.
What is the condition of the PVC system? Any leaks at all? When was the last time the PVC valve was replaced? Bottom line. Expect Idle problems if there's even a tiny vacuum leak.
Here's some more information on how to trouble shoot idle/IAC issues.
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/resources/troubleshoot-iac-idle-problems-1996-2004.13/
What is the condition of the PVC system? Any leaks at all? When was the last time the PVC valve was replaced? Bottom line. Expect Idle problems if there's even a tiny vacuum leak.
Here's some more information on how to trouble shoot idle/IAC issues.
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/resources/troubleshoot-iac-idle-problems-1996-2004.13/
P0506 is a more generic OBD-code for idle speed too low.
All of the things you mention -- brake loading, A/C clutch load -- and more (e.g. power steering cramp) are used by the PCM to use its idle air control valve to bump the idle a bit to maintain proper speed. I agree with wmburns: it sounds like the IAC isn't functioning. It may not be that the IAC is bad but it's the cheapest and easiest to replace.
If it's not the IAC itself you might have wiring or PCM issues. Start with the IAC. Note that if you have fiddled with the throttle stop screw and replacing the the IAC fixes the problems you're going to have to re-set the minimum idle air (i.e. the throttle stop screw) setting.
No IAC is really serviceable no matter what anyone says. I have cleaned hundreds and it may allow them to work for a few more hours but that's it.
Also its PCV not PVC! Crankcase Ventilation and not running pipe so the toilet flushes.
No onto the "car wont run without the battery" BS. Yes it will. The exciter wire in almost any Ford is just looking at voltage from the fuse box. If the car is running and the alt is charging then you can remove the battery and it will still run because the alt has already made enough voltage to keep exciting itself. Basically its fapping.
For IAC, you can not use any type of pressure line. They do not expand but they cant keep from collapsing. You need a specific VAC line. Oreillys sells them in the helper section. Doorman makes them.
Also the IAC is pretty much at 0% DC when running down the road because its only job is to move air AROUND the throttle body. If the throttle is open ...... you get the idea.
Now that we have all that out of the way, this is what I would test if it was in my shop.
1. Fuel pressure and fuel filter.
2. Data log the TPS to make sure it is reading correctly and linear.
3. Check the crank sensor. Both the plugs and sensor are known to be problematic.
4. Intake leak test. Its a crappy intake and they crack and lose plenum gaskets very often.
Try all that and then quote me so I remember to check back with this thread.
Also its PCV not PVC! Crankcase Ventilation and not running pipe so the toilet flushes.
No onto the "car wont run without the battery" BS. Yes it will. The exciter wire in almost any Ford is just looking at voltage from the fuse box. If the car is running and the alt is charging then you can remove the battery and it will still run because the alt has already made enough voltage to keep exciting itself. Basically its fapping.
For IAC, you can not use any type of pressure line. They do not expand but they cant keep from collapsing. You need a specific VAC line. Oreillys sells them in the helper section. Doorman makes them.
Also the IAC is pretty much at 0% DC when running down the road because its only job is to move air AROUND the throttle body. If the throttle is open ...... you get the idea.
Now that we have all that out of the way, this is what I would test if it was in my shop.
1. Fuel pressure and fuel filter.
2. Data log the TPS to make sure it is reading correctly and linear.
3. Check the crank sensor. Both the plugs and sensor are known to be problematic.
4. Intake leak test. Its a crappy intake and they crack and lose plenum gaskets very often.
Try all that and then quote me so I remember to check back with this thread.
Also, if its a Duralast IAC you need to get rid of it. I try to get Motorcraft only for Mustangs as most aftermarket ones are trash. They work well for other Fords but the design on the V8s leaves something to be desired. If you cant get a Motorcraft then get a BWD as they seem good about 95% of the time.
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