Finally got the seats back from the upholsterer. They were seats out of wrecked 2004 convertible. Initially grey, I had the leather dyed white to match my interior. The install was pretty smooth but there were a few details I'd thought I would share with the board. They were installed in a '65 fastback.
This applies to the 2004 convertible seats. I don't know if the standard seats have a different underside configuration.
1. I used the original '65 seat tracks (removed the 2004 track which included the drivers power tracks)
2. The drivers seat requires more modification than the passenger seat. Since the drivers underside has a pronounced raised section on each side of the seat (between the front and back original holes), I had to use spacers (1") to raise the seat track enough to clear the area and allow for the release mechanism to clear as well.
3. On the drivers seat, I drilled 4 new holes so as to maximize the ability to move the seat back (I'm 6'3") I used 3/8" bolts with lock nuts. You can used 5/16" bolts if you don't want to enlarge the original '65 seat track holes.
Also, you'll have to remove another seat motor component which is attached inside the underside seat frame and blocks the new rear holes to be drilled. This allows for access to the new rear bolts to go through. The bracket screws (which attach the motor) are accessed under the upholstery on the side of the seat.
4. The side to side width of the original holes on the 2004 seats is close enough to the width on the seat pan.
5. The passenger side is much easier. I used the original front theaded holes (they're metric) and drilled new rear holes. (passenger leg room is not as big an issue)
6. The passenger side has lowered (scalloped) middle section between the front and rear holes (the opposite of the drivers seat which was raised). This makes things a little easier but I still used 1/2" spacers to allow for the release mechanism to clear.
7. The front release handle on the passenger seat needs to be bent down a bit to clear the front of the seat. I didn't have to do this on the drivers side because I installed the seat track more forward to maximize leg room. This allowed the handle to clear the front easier.
Now for head room (I'm 6'3"), it's tight. And since I had to raise the drivers seat a full 1" didn't help. I can sit comfortably in the seat with enough head room if I tilt the seat back. Leg room under the steering wheel is also tight. The car is still driveable but not ideal.
I feel that I will probably lower the seat pan. I don't think I need to move it back.
This applies to the 2004 convertible seats. I don't know if the standard seats have a different underside configuration.
1. I used the original '65 seat tracks (removed the 2004 track which included the drivers power tracks)
2. The drivers seat requires more modification than the passenger seat. Since the drivers underside has a pronounced raised section on each side of the seat (between the front and back original holes), I had to use spacers (1") to raise the seat track enough to clear the area and allow for the release mechanism to clear as well.
3. On the drivers seat, I drilled 4 new holes so as to maximize the ability to move the seat back (I'm 6'3") I used 3/8" bolts with lock nuts. You can used 5/16" bolts if you don't want to enlarge the original '65 seat track holes.
Also, you'll have to remove another seat motor component which is attached inside the underside seat frame and blocks the new rear holes to be drilled. This allows for access to the new rear bolts to go through. The bracket screws (which attach the motor) are accessed under the upholstery on the side of the seat.
4. The side to side width of the original holes on the 2004 seats is close enough to the width on the seat pan.
5. The passenger side is much easier. I used the original front theaded holes (they're metric) and drilled new rear holes. (passenger leg room is not as big an issue)
6. The passenger side has lowered (scalloped) middle section between the front and rear holes (the opposite of the drivers seat which was raised). This makes things a little easier but I still used 1/2" spacers to allow for the release mechanism to clear.
7. The front release handle on the passenger seat needs to be bent down a bit to clear the front of the seat. I didn't have to do this on the drivers side because I installed the seat track more forward to maximize leg room. This allowed the handle to clear the front easier.
Now for head room (I'm 6'3"), it's tight. And since I had to raise the drivers seat a full 1" didn't help. I can sit comfortably in the seat with enough head room if I tilt the seat back. Leg room under the steering wheel is also tight. The car is still driveable but not ideal.
I feel that I will probably lower the seat pan. I don't think I need to move it back.
