How far does it have to come down, and how much of a nightmare is it to get it unbolted from the engine?
2005 V6 valvetrain... wtf?
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- Mar 7, 2002
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not sure (didnt read the thread) but think this is the motor w/o timing details. Buy that tool'n set it up to do so or U will never reassemble as easily as other engines (post 6 I think)...BiL dropped off "a noisy engine" (sport trac or sompin) yr or so ago w/this problem. It is a known anomalie 4 these. Did I C a Flex w/it next?
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Thanks very much for the pic.
Can you please clarify this for me? Drop it how far? Do I just have to support it while it's disconnected from the block, or do I have to go further, like pulling the tranny crossmember?
Can you please clarify this for me? Drop it how far? Do I just have to support it while it's disconnected from the block, or do I have to go further, like pulling the tranny crossmember?
- Mar 7, 2002
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IIRC, on the one I did in a driveway, I left the driveshaft connected, but had the transmission sitting on the floor jack with a board between the jack and transmission. The crossmember did have to come down.
Hmm... I do have the benefit of a gantry chain hoist and working over a pit, so I'm not in "driveway desperation". But now that we have the bell housing bolts out, torque converter disconnected, and motor mount nuts off, the motor looks like it's ready to jump out of there - there's already nearly a 1/4" space between the two, a nice change from those that need "persuasion".
I'll be supporting the tranny pan as you did. And I don't have any problem with dropping the crossmember, but I can't see yet why it has to come off.
I'll be supporting the tranny pan as you did. And I don't have any problem with dropping the crossmember, but I can't see yet why it has to come off.
I think I get it... I don't have a floor jack that's low enough to get under the tranny pan, but it looks like I can just block the pan up, then unbolt the crossmember to lower the aft end of the tranny, which will tilt it enough to allow me to slide the engine out while clearing the crossmember and steering rack in front of the motor.
Did I get that right?
Did I get that right?
- Mar 7, 2002
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It's been six or seven years since I did the last one of those, but I think the entire reason is to reach an electrical connection on the main powertrain harness because it runs down the spine of the transmission. I'm elbows deep in a Cummins diesel right now, but when I get a sec I'll double-check Alldata.
- Mar 7, 2002
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This is essentially correct according to Alldata. If you have an automatic, the harness from the PCM has a branch that runs down the top of the transmission and plugs into it (possibly in multiple places, Alldata is kind of sucky, but its what we have here at the shop I work at). If you have a manual, Ford still says to remove it, but I'm not sure exactly why (possibly the same reason). Removing the engine the easy way includes removing the wiring harness from the vehicle while still plugged into most places on the engine itself.
Then I guess we went the slightly harder way - it's out, and we unplugged the harness(es) from the motor. Wasn't that bad; Ford uses some weird/unfamiliar/annoying connectors for some electricals and vacuum, but nothing unmanageable.
One problem, though: I twisted off one of the exhaust manifold (to tailpipe) studs. It was a real surprise, as I just had a regular ratchet on it, nothing aggressive like a breaker bar or impact. Is it just threaded into the manifold, and will I be able to replace it without stepping into a nightmare I can't wake up from?
One problem, though: I twisted off one of the exhaust manifold (to tailpipe) studs. It was a real surprise, as I just had a regular ratchet on it, nothing aggressive like a breaker bar or impact. Is it just threaded into the manifold, and will I be able to replace it without stepping into a nightmare I can't wake up from?
OK, 'donut area" the down pipe? That often has a 'thru bolt'. Drilled out from other end
OR
soak a day (an hr, a minuet) w/PB Blaster (or other - 1/2 trany fluid'n kero, etc) and forward/back/forward turn w/vice grips on exceedingly tight (only time to use them) in lill increments. A lill further w/each turn toward CCW. I weld a bolt head on & back out. Some usea fire wrench and heat up the surrounding - even MAP gas or propane can help (not like my acetylene) expanding the metal around the stud. Same idea - back'n forth till it squeaks on removal. Reet, reet, reet...
OR
soak a day (an hr, a minuet) w/PB Blaster (or other - 1/2 trany fluid'n kero, etc) and forward/back/forward turn w/vice grips on exceedingly tight (only time to use them) in lill increments. A lill further w/each turn toward CCW. I weld a bolt head on & back out. Some usea fire wrench and heat up the surrounding - even MAP gas or propane can help (not like my acetylene) expanding the metal around the stud. Same idea - back'n forth till it squeaks on removal. Reet, reet, reet...
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