2005 V6 valvetrain... wtf?

subaruspy · May 30, 2022

MustangIIMatt said:
Drop the transmission (doesn't have to be removed completely, but it does have to be lowered).

How far does it have to come down, and how much of a nightmare is it to get it unbolted from the engine?

subaruspy · Jun 8, 2022

We're into this now - car's over the pit, we have the SKP kit, and the timing toolkit is en route.

One question: How many bell housing to block bolts are there?

Adieu · Jun 9, 2022

chrlsful · Jun 9, 2022

not sure (didnt read the thread) but think this is the motor w/o timing details. Buy that tool'n set it up to do so or U will never reassemble as easily as other engines (post 6 I think)...BiL dropped off "a noisy engine" (sport trac or sompin) yr or so ago w/this problem. It is a known anomalie 4 these. Did I C a Flex w/it next?

subaruspy · Jun 9, 2022

Thanks very much for the pic.

Can you please clarify this for me? Drop it how far? Do I just have to support it while it's disconnected from the block, or do I have to go further, like pulling the tranny crossmember?

MustangIIMatt said:
MustangIIMatt said:

Drop the transmission (doesn't have to be removed completely, but it does have to be lowered).

Click to expand...

Adieu · Jun 9, 2022

subaruspy said:
Thanks very much for the pic.

Can you please clarify this for me? Drop it how far? Do I just have to support it while it's disconnected from the block, or do I have to go further, like pulling the tranny crossmember?

IIRC, on the one I did in a driveway, I left the driveshaft connected, but had the transmission sitting on the floor jack with a board between the jack and transmission. The crossmember did have to come down.

subaruspy · Jun 9, 2022

Hmm... I do have the benefit of a gantry chain hoist and working over a pit, so I'm not in "driveway desperation". But now that we have the bell housing bolts out, torque converter disconnected, and motor mount nuts off, the motor looks like it's ready to jump out of there - there's already nearly a 1/4" space between the two, a nice change from those that need "persuasion".

I'll be supporting the tranny pan as you did. And I don't have any problem with dropping the crossmember, but I can't see yet why it has to come off.

subaruspy · Jun 9, 2022

I think I get it... I don't have a floor jack that's low enough to get under the tranny pan, but it looks like I can just block the pan up, then unbolt the crossmember to lower the aft end of the tranny, which will tilt it enough to allow me to slide the engine out while clearing the crossmember and steering rack in front of the motor.

Did I get that right?

Adieu · Jun 9, 2022

subaruspy said:
I'll be supporting the tranny pan as you did. And I don't have any problem with dropping the crossmember, but I can't see yet why it has to come off.

It's been six or seven years since I did the last one of those, but I think the entire reason is to reach an electrical connection on the main powertrain harness because it runs down the spine of the transmission. I'm elbows deep in a Cummins diesel right now, but when I get a sec I'll double-check Alldata.

Adieu · Jun 9, 2022

MustangIIMatt said:
It's been six or seven years since I did the last one of those, but I think the entire reason is to reach an electrical connection on the main powertrain harness because it runs down the spine of the transmission. I'm elbows deep in a Cummins diesel right now, but when I get a sec I'll double-check Alldata.

This is essentially correct according to Alldata. If you have an automatic, the harness from the PCM has a branch that runs down the top of the transmission and plugs into it (possibly in multiple places, Alldata is kind of sucky, but its what we have here at the shop I work at). If you have a manual, Ford still says to remove it, but I'm not sure exactly why (possibly the same reason). Removing the engine the easy way includes removing the wiring harness from the vehicle while still plugged into most places on the engine itself.

subaruspy · Jun 14, 2022

Then I guess we went the slightly harder way - it's out, and we unplugged the harness(es) from the motor. Wasn't that bad; Ford uses some weird/unfamiliar/annoying connectors for some electricals and vacuum, but nothing unmanageable.

One problem, though: I twisted off one of the exhaust manifold (to tailpipe) studs. It was a real surprise, as I just had a regular ratchet on it, nothing aggressive like a breaker bar or impact. Is it just threaded into the manifold, and will I be able to replace it without stepping into a nightmare I can't wake up from?

chrlsful · Jun 14, 2022

all exhaust can B that way. Is there a stub stickin out? broke off below the surface? This @ the block or way down the system?

subaruspy · Jun 14, 2022

Nice long stub sticking out, basically broke at the nut. As I said, it's one of the two at the manifold outlet. Just need to know if it's threaded into the manifold; don't want to be twisting it if it's pressed in.

chrlsful · Jun 14, 2022

4 or 5 techniques available, If ya gotem - "all set". Just a typical day (well, one each coupla wks. &... We can avoid it w/care as well).

subaruspy · Jun 14, 2022

Um, the question was whether the stud is threaded into the manifold or not.

chrlsful · Jun 16, 2022

"...the exhaust manifold (to tailpipe) studs..."
so not at the block?

subaruspy · Jun 16, 2022

No, not at the head. That would be a piece that's stuck in the head, not the manifold.

"...the exhaust manifold (to tailpipe) studs...", at the outlet of the manifold, and the inlet to the tailpipe, right ahead of the first O2 sensor and catalytic converter.

chrlsful · Jun 16, 2022

OK, 'donut area" the down pipe? That often has a 'thru bolt'. Drilled out from other end
OR
soak a day (an hr, a minuet) w/PB Blaster (or other - 1/2 trany fluid'n kero, etc) and forward/back/forward turn w/vice grips on exceedingly tight (only time to use them) in lill increments. A lill further w/each turn toward CCW. I weld a bolt head on & back out. Some usea fire wrench and heat up the surrounding - even MAP gas or propane can help (not like my acetylene) expanding the metal around the stud. Same idea - back'n forth till it squeaks on removal. Reet, reet, reet...

subaruspy · Jun 16, 2022

So your answer to my actual question is "Yes, it's threaded."

Thank you.

chrlsful · Jun 17, 2022

no answ here, just 'offerings'. Ex -sprits give those
("an ex - sprit is: an X isa 'has been', a spirt is H2O under pressure.")

2005 V6 valvetrain... wtf?

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