K. I'm in South Florida where is barely gets under 70 in the "winter", and I run 5w30 in all my cars with no issues.
I put in a harden oil pump shaft along with a high volume oil pump and it seems to have matched nicely with the 20w-50. I was scared of the winter cause I just wasn't sure but it does real well all together.The 2nd number represents the viscosity of the oil at near operating temperatu
re. So, a 20w-50 or a 0w-50 is still about a 50 viscosity oil at near engine temp. The first number gives you an idea of how quickly the viscosity will change due to change in temperature. In fact, it's quite likely that a 0W-50 would be thicker in winter weather than a 10W-30 at cranking temperatures, for example. The critically important part of thinner oils in winter has to do with how long it takes, or how difficult it is to get the oil circulating and to get the oil pressure to rise throughout the engine. It's just not as bad as it used to be.
Thus, how hot it gets in the summer really doesn't make a difference. More concerning is how cold it gets in the winter.
I would suppose more open roads in Fl, here in Atlanta we have 285, spaghetti junction and the downtown connector. When you're going through you never know if a 2hr creep along is coming. To top it off the cooling system needs to be in check. But thankfully those extremes have passed the daily commute and from.
I've been to ATL many times. Could never live there as the commute from the Dunwoody/Buckhead area to downtown and back each day takes over an hour and I would end up killing someone.. lol
However, I take it you've never been to S Florida. The commute on 95 or going to a major city like West Palm, Ft. Lauderdale or Miami rivals Atlanta and it's HOT here. Like 95-100 degrees with 90% humidity. That plays havoc on a motor and cooling system.
Glad what you have is working for you but like I said, I've run 5w30 dyno and synthetic oils in my cars for decades here with no problems. I bet if you switch to either a 10W or 5W 30 you'll get better MPG and pick up a few HP.
Like I always say, that's why Baskin Robbins makes 31 flavors..
The 2nd number represents the viscosity of the oil at near operating temperature. So, a 20w-50 or a 0w-50 is still about a 50 viscosity oil at near engine temp. The first number gives you an idea of how quickly the viscosity will change due to change in temperature. In fact, it's quite likely that a 0W-50 would be thicker in winter weather than a 10W-30 at cranking temperatures, for example. The critically important part of thinner oils in winter has to do with how long it takes, or how difficult it is to get the oil circulating and to get the oil pressure to rise throughout the engine. It's just not as bad as it used to be.
Thus, how hot it gets in the summer really doesn't make a difference. More concerning is how cold it gets in the winter.
yes.A 10w-50, 15w-50, 20w-50, all behave like 50-weights at 100C.
Kind of...but not exactlyBut they behave like 10, 15, 0r 20-weight oils at sub-freezing temps.
great info Chris...i like RP and so far my 333 stroker likes it too its been swimming in two quarts of 20/50 and three 10/30 each oil change for 23k miles now, valvetrain sounds quieter and smoother with two 20/50 mixed in i dont mind loses a hp or two for a happy engine
Well done Sir!
2(20w50) + 3(10w30)= (40w100)+(30w90)=70w190
70w190/5 quarts= 14w38 ........... or...........................
(15w40)
Well done Sir!
2(20w50) + 3(10w30)= (40w100)+(30w90)=70w190
70w190/5 quarts= 14w38 ........... or...........................
(15w40)
Assuming it would actually blend or just layer up???
Like my answer however, ....It's Humpday, Whaut Whaut!!!
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