300+ rwhp all motor on 99+gt?

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If you are asking about 2 valves, ask for dyno sheets also. I have heard it has been done BUT I have not seen it. I am sure it can be done and may be done more and more everyday with the flooding of new parts to the 2v world. I have also heard it is easier for a PI headed 96-98 motor to hit the 300 mark due to the higher compression added with the addition of the updated pieces. I know this is off topic but I would like to know some 300 RWHP combos myself to figure the costs of such an increase in power for the 2v motors.
 
You will not hit 300rwhp on a n/a bolt on 2v 4.6 GT. It's just not going to happen, even if you have every bolt-on under the sun. The only way to hit 300rwhp on a n/a 2v GT is to either go with boost or start doing internal motor work like heads and cams.

I say if you have the following, you should be able to hit 300rwhp n/a on a 2v 4.6ltr GT.

Port & polished 99+ cylinder heads
Oversized valve job w/ SS valves
Competition valve springs(more of a safety issue than power issue)
High performance n/a cams
Full length exhuast(headers, mid-pipe, and catback)
u/d pullies
Little bit of intake work
Dyno tune
 
snoopy98 said:
i was wondering if any of you have reached the 300+ rwhp range with all motor no nitrous no blower all motor and bolt on's ???if so please post your mod list of what took to get their thanks.



yep Bolt ons :).

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Dark Knight GT said:
You will not hit 300rwhp on a n/a bolt on 2v 4.6 GT. It's just not going to happen, even if you have every bolt-on under the sun. The only way to hit 300rwhp on a n/a 2v GT is to either go with boost or start doing internal motor work like heads and cams.

I say if you have the following, you should be able to hit 300rwhp n/a on a 2v 4.6ltr GT.

Port & polished 99+ cylinder heads
Oversized valve job w/ SS valves
Competition valve springs(more of a safety issue than power issue)
High performance n/a cams
Full length exhuast(headers, mid-pipe, and catback)
u/d pullies
Little bit of intake work
Dyno tune

Don't forget a few stickers to push it over the top. :nice:
 
Pretty much impossible to do without touching the heads, cam, or intake. I have pretty much every bolt on besides the tb/plenum combo. Even with that I would only guess my car to be at 275+ SAE at the wheels. Check sig to see what I had done and what it did dyno wise. If I was to do the tb/plenum combo and swap cams then I think I could hit the magic 300 mark, but without cams, or porting stock heads... I dont see it happening.
 
Formula to 300 rwhp:

LT's
o/r X
straight through style mufflers/catback
U/D pulleys
75 mm TB
Accufab Plenum
K&N FIPK
and most importantly:
P&P heads
cams & springs
dyno tune

All that SHOULD make at least 300 rwhp.

Take away the cams/springs and P&P heads and you'll be stuck UNDER 300 rwhp (SAE).
 
StngStr said:
Formula to 300 rwhp:

LT's
o/r X
straight through style mufflers/catback
U/D pulleys
75 mm TB
Accufab Plenum
K&N FIPK
and most importantly:
P&P heads
cams & springs
dyno tune

All that SHOULD make at least 300 rwhp.

Take away the cams/springs and P&P heads and you'll be stuck UNDER 300 rwhp (SAE).


:nonono:
You guys cant just say CAMs. You cant slap any old cam in and expect to see more. You have to look ahead and figure out what type of cams you want. Me, myself, picked the lower duration Comp cam because if I went with any higher duration, I would be shifting at close to 7k. Not a good idea without rebuilding the block. Plus, I plan on going with Forced induction or Nitrous. For either of the two power adders, you want a cam that has a higher LSA, 113+, and you want a split duration where the exhaust is larger than the intake.

now all motor cams are different. If I would have put in a all motor cam, I probably would have seen 5-10 rwhp from just a different cam profile.
Nick
 
Comp Cam #102600 270AH grind $590 (assume you have PI heads already)
Comp springs 26113 $180
Second Street Roller Rockers and solid lifters(for 2v or 4v mod motors) $1700 let you run reliably up to 6000 rpm with no problems(if ya got a Cobra 7000rpm+).
Accufab or CL upper phelnum(either one..10 hp either way) skip the TB $100
Shorties or Longtubes with a good mid pipe $900
Diablo with a good dyno tune $500

Should be right at 310 hp for just shy of $4000. Or you could get a blower :)
 
Forget the rockers and solid lifters. Not really worth the cost, plus the solid lifters still need some details ironed out, holding adjustment is one of them. Most people would prefer a hydraulic lash adjuster's install and forget method.
 
Sorry guys, I had to do a quick edit after realizing he said all motor and bolt ons, not just bolt ons...
But I still don't consider heads and cams bolt ons. Nick, I guess I just define bolt ons differently than you do...but if I understand what you meant, I agree that headers on a mod motor are exactly a bolt-on job either. Nothing like back in the day when it took about an hour to put long tubes on my bud's 67 fastback with a 351 windsor / 4spd transplanted in it - swhhhheeeeet!
 
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