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302/347 Distributor Install

  • Thread starter Thread starter Captainawesome
  • Start date Start date Mar 30, 2020
C

Captainawesome

Member
Nov 23, 2019
26
6
13
Ohio
Mar 30, 2020
#1
  • Mar 30, 2020
  • #1
Good morning all. With working remotely I have had some more time to put my car back together. We bought this car for like $1,000, but the car was in pieces. We built a new engine with the existing block (347). We primed the oil system and are about to install the distributor. We have the motor at 0 degrees at TDC. When installing the distributor, The rotor needs to be pointing at the number 1 cylinder terminal on the cap, which it is. I feel like I am missing something as far as aligning the distributor body. I read somewhere to align the ignition module to where it was originally, well my distributor was in the floor board of the car when I got it and the ignition module is on the passenger side fender apron. Can someone clear up as far as if I am missing something as far as installing a distributor on a fresh build? Car is a 1995 Mustang GT with factory distributor. Thank you in advance,
 
Last edited: Mar 30, 2020

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
6,945
5,816
213
Mar 30, 2020
#2
  • Mar 30, 2020
  • #2
Pics would really help us pin point what you have going on. The issue with the distributor alignment only has to deal with the alignment of the TFI ( module ) to have clearance for additional rotation for alignment. If fuel injected there should be a black ( module ) attached to the distributor....unless the previous owner moved it and put it in a heat sink to protect from heat. Generally, it would be at about a 45° angle from front back towards drivers side. Allowing some movement towards the thermostat area.
 
T

trebor3170

mine usually gets hard with the car on
May 31, 2019
83
26
28
Salisbury, MD
Mar 30, 2020
#3
  • Mar 30, 2020
  • #3
94-95 have the TFI on the fender apron, reference to the position of the TFI is for 93 and prior. For a 95 you only need to worry about #1 plug wire. Also make sure you are at TDC on the compression stroke, both valves closed, if not you'll be 180 deg out.
 
Reactions: revhead347 and General karthief

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
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Mar 30, 2020
#4
  • Mar 30, 2020
  • #4
Compression stroke, and the balancer should be set around 10 deg btdc.

Kurt
 

96pushrod

I think they're a little easier to get off
5 Year Member
May 15, 2018
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Mar 30, 2020
#5
  • Mar 30, 2020
  • #5
As long as the rotor is pointing to the #1 terminal it doesn’t really matter. Don’t overthink trying to get it exact, that’s what a timing light is for. Just don’t forget to remove the spout when setting initial timing.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,302
1,645
214
Acworth, GA
Mar 30, 2020
#6
  • Mar 30, 2020
  • #6
96pushrod said:
As long as the rotor is pointing to the #1 terminal it doesn’t really matter. Don’t overthink trying to get it exact, that’s what a timing light is for. Just don’t forget to remove the spout when setting initial timing.
Click to expand...

I've had better luck setting it up where I want it to be, and then fine tuning it with the light. Just my technique. Measure with a vernier, mark with a crayon, cut with an axe.

Kurt
 
Reactions: General karthief
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