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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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351w heads on a 5.0?

  • Thread starter Thread starter new 2 tha game
  • Start date Start date Jan 17, 2004
N

new 2 tha game

New Member
Jan 17, 2004
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florida
Jan 17, 2004
#1
  • Jan 17, 2004
  • #1
Does any one know if this works. Does it help horsepower?
 

retro50

New Member
Jul 15, 2003
191
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Plymouth,MA
Jan 17, 2004
#2
  • Jan 17, 2004
  • #2
These heads work but you must use the early years from 1969-1970. C90E-DOOE Castings. They have bigger intake runners and 1.84-1.54 valves. they also have 60 c.c. chambers. But they have lousy exhaust ports. To get anything out of them you must grind out the thermactor hump in the ex ports. If you use them you'll spend alot of money on them and it is not cost effective unless you can do the work yourself. The later heads from 1978 and up are the same castings as the 302 heads. So you won't gain anything from using the later heads.
 
N

new 2 tha game

New Member
Jan 17, 2004
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florida
Jan 17, 2004
#3
  • Jan 17, 2004
  • #3
Thanks alot Im still trying to figure all this stuff about my 5.0.
 
J

JuggalotuStang

New Member
Jan 7, 2004
110
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Southampton, MA
Jan 17, 2004
#4
  • Jan 17, 2004
  • #4
yea, i have a 5.0 w/ 351 heads too..
 
N

new 2 tha game

New Member
Jan 17, 2004
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florida
Jan 17, 2004
#5
  • Jan 17, 2004
  • #5
Was it worth the cost
 
J

JuggalotuStang

New Member
Jan 7, 2004
110
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Southampton, MA
Jan 17, 2004
#6
  • Jan 17, 2004
  • #6
for me...Yea i bought the car for 3500 hehe
 
N

new 2 tha game

New Member
Jan 17, 2004
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florida
Jan 17, 2004
#7
  • Jan 17, 2004
  • #7
what kindda performance can i expect
 

retro50

New Member
Jul 15, 2003
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Plymouth,MA
Jan 17, 2004
#8
  • Jan 17, 2004
  • #8
I have a set of C9OE heads on my car but I did them myself as I work in a machine shop. I put in 1.94-1.60 stainless steel Manley raceflo valves ,hardened ex seat inserts,solid bronze valve guides,dual springs,studs and guideplates. Plus I ported and polished and C.C.'ed them. I spent 14 hours on the exhaust ports alone. Then I did all of the machining like cutting spring pockets,milling,counterboring for the ex seat inserts, drilling and reaming the valveguide bores to accept solid bronze guides,pulling rocker studs and machining + tapping the pedalstals for the studs and guide plates.cutting the valveseats,Etc. It can really add up. I go 12.50's with these heads at 108-109 m.p.h. N/A. That is why I mean it is not cost effective to do these heads right unless you do them yourself. There are guys going alot faster with these heads also. But for what you'll have in to them you could have aluminum heads and alot less weight up front.
 
N

new 2 tha game

New Member
Jan 17, 2004
32
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0
florida
Jan 17, 2004
#9
  • Jan 17, 2004
  • #9
I just thought this might be a cheaper way rather than the aluminum heads but apparantly not if you have any suggestions im all ears
 

stock50LX

Curmudgeon
Founding Member
Oct 2, 2001
1,858
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0
University Place, WA
Jan 18, 2004
#10
  • Jan 18, 2004
  • #10
new 2 tha game said:
I just thought this might be a cheaper way rather than the aluminum heads but apparantly not if you have any suggestions im all ears
Click to expand...

You will need some exhaust port work but that is not critical. You should be able to smooth the exhaust port bumps with a drill and a carbide burr. Stock, these heads flow about like your stockers on the exhaust side. The hardened exhaust seats are probably a good idea too. You should also replaced the pressed in studs. The latter two would cost about $100. each, in my area. The $200 or so in machine work is still much less than aluminium heads and you would see a big boost in performance. I would recommend it. For me, the satisfaction in this sport is doing it yourself. It is not brain science. Just have the courage to take some action. Those are good heads and they can be made to produce big power. I am assuming they are 69-73 castings with 60cc chambers. It they are later model 351 heads, they are inferior.
 

Blk91stang

Member
Jan 3, 2003
607
0
16
North Brunswick, NJ
Jan 18, 2004
#11
  • Jan 18, 2004
  • #11
I am doing this swap right now. I have the 351w Powerheads. You need the bolt reducers or the special 1/2-7/16 head bolts, Stud mounted rockers and your set! The 351w heads flow more on the intake side which is why im using these. If i were you just buy the 5.0 powerheads E7's. Look at their website for flow #'s. O yea I went 12.1 @109 wit the 351w powerheads on a 351w. These heads are gonna rock on my 5.0!!!
 
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