5.0 problem in my t-bird, not my mustang

Hope this works with a T-bird like it does with Mustangs...
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

No codes, then replace the coil and TFI module. The TFI is the last part I would swap since they tend to have more problems after they warm up than when they are cold.

If you replaced the fuel & air filters when you did the tune-up, then replace the coil and then the TFI module if the codes didn't show anything.

did you change the fuel filter as well? silly question. Also if you replaced al of the ignition componants than it might be a bad injector.

You'll have to get a mechanic to check this, you need a special led connector to probe the connector it will light when the injector fires.

MorbidGTVert said:

well i'm going to replace the coil and tfi. but how do you check for a faulty fuel injector?

Click to expand...

A Noid light available from Autozone, is one way to test the injector wiring. I like to use an old injector with compressed air applied to the injector where the fuel rail would normally connect. I hook the whole thing up, apply compressed air to the injector and stick it in a paper cup of soapy water. When the engine cranks with the ignition switch on, if the injector fires, it makes bubbles. Cheap if you have the stuff laying around, and works good too.

There are two 10 pin connectors at the back of the upper manifold, one of them has all 8 injector connections. Pull them apart and check for damage. Each injector should ohm out at about 13 ohms +\- 1.5 ohms.

Remember that the computer supplies a ground path for the injectors. The power for the injectors comes through the ECC relay located on top of the computer. They have power to them any time the ignition is on. The computer turns on the ground and completes the circuit, making the injectors fire. Pull an injector wire connector off and look for 12 volts on the red wire when the ignition switch is on. No power, then look for problems with the 10 pin connecter (salt & pepper shakers at the rear of the upper manifold)

just out of wonder have you done a compression check? if you have good compression then I would go to sensors and injector but thats just me.

I would also deffinately go and make sure the plug wires are all on correctly. Most people over look the simple things. Ya get 2 wires crossed and you'll be struggling badly at higher RPM's