5.0l swap problem!!(pics)

97vertstang · Dec 11, 2005

me and my friend are dropping a 90 mustang 5.0l into a 68 mustang. the problem is how can i use the dipstick ???the 5.0l has the dipstick in the side of the block.the pan for the 68 is a front sump so???? does anyone have any suggestions??? btw,wanted to show my friends setup . 90 5.0l,edelbrock intake,625 demon,underdrive pulleys,msd distributor,msd wires, stall is going to be 3000 and some 4.10s u think it will break the 13s??well what do u think??
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<img src="http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y266/jalisco230/kjgwug384x512.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com">
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86bluecobra · Dec 11, 2005

i believe you can get timing chain covers with the provision for a dip stick in it. this works for a front sump oil pan. the timing chain cover on my 351w had this and i had to plug it with a bolt and used the side dip stick.

rbohm · Dec 12, 2005

you can use an earlier timing cover designed with the dipstick in front. you have to plug the dipstick hole in the block.

mfp4073 · Dec 12, 2005

Yep, use the early timing chain cover with the dipstick provision. There may be some issues with the mech fuel pump lobe not clearing. But thats what it takes. Just plug the old hole.

97vertstang · Dec 12, 2005

if i use the the old timing cover will alll the 5.0l accessories bolt on?? the dampner serpentine system.also im a use an electric fuel pump how will i plug the hole ??will a regular fuel pump block off plate work like the old ones ??

mfp4073 · Dec 12, 2005

That I cannot tell you. I went with a classic style v belt setup. I had to get a new timing chain set as the old eccentric would not clear the cover.

12sec67 · Dec 12, 2005

i used the 90's timing chain cover and drilled a hole in it. plug the other hole with RTV or JB weld.

to drill it- the newer timing cover i had , had the the little mark of where it was to be drilled for the old style dip stick out- but was never drilled in that place. even if it doesn't , just mark it and drill it - try to keep the same angle as the last timing cover. remember to take the oil pan off and clean out all the shavings.

with full exhaust and some good traction you should be close to hitting 13's..maybe a 14.2...only one way to find out.

GREYFOX4INCH · Dec 12, 2005

just my $0.02: jb weld sucks

Shakin66 · Dec 12, 2005

There was not any issues when I used the early timing cover and switched to Serp. drive. Yea JB sux go to a machine shop and ask for a 3/8" freeze plug. I put two in the block's dipstick hole to be sure.

jcode68 · Dec 12, 2005

mfp4073 said:
That I cannot tell you. I went with a classic style v belt setup. I had to get a new timing chain set as the old eccentric would not clear the cover.

They make a 1 piece and a 2 piece eccentric depending on the timing cover setup you have. I also had an interferance fit with the 1 piece eccentric. I got a 2 piece and it fit perfect and I didn't need to change the timing chain.

latamud · Dec 12, 2005

I'm with 12sec67. Plug the side hole and drill the timing cover. I had my engine apart and planned it this way. I didn't plan to use a mechanical fuel pump so the newer cover was great, no need for a block off plate.

67efivert · Dec 12, 2005

i also drilled mine works just fine that way

Rusty67 · Dec 13, 2005

Having done this 2 times now I can tell you the easy way to do it. Just use the side dipstick that is stock for the block. If you can pull the dipstick tube out then it won't be a problem to do. Just take a sharpie and mark the dipstick tube where it comes through the block and cut it off at the line. Then put it back in with some RTV so it wont go anywhere. The dipstick will slide right in. At this point there should be no problem with it bothering the mating surface for the oil pan. =-)

red65 · Dec 13, 2005

Tip -- A 1/8" NPT pipe tap works well to thread the hole in the block. It's not perfect, but good enough to take a thread. Then thread in a 1/8" NPT brass plug and forget about it. Forever.

LMan · Dec 13, 2005

another method is to pound in a small wooden dowel into the side hole....it will swell with engine heat and seal it off permanently.

68converted · Dec 13, 2005

All I did was take a half inch long hardened bolt (? on thread size) and a wrench and threaded it into the hole. Then I removed it, filled the hole and threads with High Temp RTV and threaded it back in. The bolt had fairly fine threads and it worked like a charm. I drilled the 91 timing cover and the alternator/tensioner bracket, used a bending tool for the dipstick tube and it fits and looks real nice.

I can send you pictures if you like. Tip- when you drill out the timing cover, make sure your angle to the alternator bracket is perfect; trust me on this mistake! Also, get the dipstick for the deep sump pan, then cut off what is not needed, that way you can get a real accurate measurement of oil in the pan.

I just scribed the oil levels on the dipstick by adding the oil (one qt short at first, made the low oil mark, then added the last qt and marked the top level.) I added the oil through the dipstick tube to make sure I had a real accurate measurement, and no excess oil was hung up in the motor.

Rusty67 · Dec 13, 2005

Also, I forgot to mention. I think the chrom Ford Motorsport pan will fit with no modification. I can't remember if it did or not but I THINK it did.

5.0l swap problem!!(pics)

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