5 code after O/R H pipe ?

Killa · Aug 1, 2008

I expect only 2 code, but its 5 code !!

P0141
P0161
P0156
P0420
P0420

will mil eliminate shut all this code ?

COramprat · Aug 1, 2008

Yep...normal codes after an OR pipe install. The PO420 was probably just set twice as a fluke. The O2 simulators will fix that.

Killa · Aug 1, 2008

COramprat said:
Yep...normal codes after an OR pipe install. The PO420 was probably just set twice as a fluke. The O2 simulators will fix that.

my friend told me he saw very little smoke coming out the tail pipe, when I go from a stop, is that normal, can I still ride the car with that check engine light on ? I dont have smog test or eminision test on where I live.

Jbauer · Aug 1, 2008

How the heck is 5 codes normal?
2 codes is normal.
I don't feel like googling, wat do all those codes stand for?

Killa · Aug 1, 2008

Jbauer said:
How the heck is 5 codes normal?
2 codes is normal.
I don't feel like googling, wat do all those codes stand for?

* P0141 Downstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater circuit fault - Bank No. 1.
* P0161 Downstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater circuit fault - Bank No. 2.
* P0156 Downstream Heated Oxygen Sensor circuit fault - Bank No. 2.
* P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency below Limit - Bank No 1.
* P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency below Limit - Bank No 1.

Jbauer · Aug 1, 2008

It looks like you damaged the heaters on both of your heated sensors sensors.
ITs a 50/50 shot with the heated ones, they don't like being screwed with. I myself managed to mess one of them up.
MIL eliminators won't solve the codes related to the heater circuit, a new sensor is needed. If your scared of spending the money for 2 sensors, Just buy one, and you'll see one code will go off. Then buy the other. If you want to make sure of the problem without spending a penny, get an OHM meter and check the resistance of the heater wires. Someone correct me if i'm wrong, but the heater wires are the 2 white ones (Some fords had purple wiring, i'm not sure what wire it would be in that case) If you get an O/L you know its the problem.

Killa · Aug 1, 2008

Jbauer said:
It looks like you damaged the heaters on both of your heated sensors sensors.
ITs a 50/50 shot with the heated ones, they don't like being screwed with. I myself managed to mess one of them up.
MIL eliminators won't solve the codes related to the heater circuit, a new sensor is needed. If your scared of spending the money for 2 sensors, Just buy one, and you'll see one code will go off. Then buy the other. If you want to make sure of the problem without spending a penny, get an OHM meter and check the resistance of the heater wires. Someone correct me if i'm wrong, but the heater wires are the 2 white ones (Some fords had purple wiring, i'm not sure what wire it would be in that case) If you get an O/L you know its the problem.

I dont know how I would damage the 02 sensort. when we install the o/r pipe, we dint disconect the battery, should I try to reset it ?

Jbauer · Aug 2, 2008

I don't know how either man, but don't be in denial. Mine broke to, and i don't now how in hell it managed to go because i was very careful. I have a feeling those heaters go out when you frikin touch them after a set amount of miles. If you plan on having that light go off, it's time for a new sensor and a pair of Mil eliminators.

Killa · Aug 2, 2008

Jbauer said:
I don't know how either man, but don't be in denial. Mine broke to, and i don't now how in hell it managed to go because i was very careful. I have a feeling those heaters go out when you frikin touch them after a set amount of miles. If you plan on having that light go off, it's time for a new sensor and a pair of Mil eliminators.

ok thanks

COramprat · Aug 2, 2008

I wouldn't go throwing sensors at it just yet. I had the same codes (heater circuit sensor) after my install and after the eliminators were installed the codes went away. Never had an issue since.

Pulling the sensors may cause the heater circuit code but I bet it will reset after a few miles. Let it ride a bit and see.

Jbauer · Aug 2, 2008

No, the heaters have nothing to do with the sensors tracking circuit.
I didn't say to throw sensors at it.. you can test this in many ways. You can test the resistance of the heater circuit with a multimeter, or you can use a Snap on or requivalent scan tool to check the readiness of the heater of the 02 sensor.
If it came on and went away wen you got the MILS, you got lucky, and the sensor somehow fixed itself when you touched it

blackink00 · Aug 2, 2008

mil eliminators will fix it trust me. the code came just from not having cats and now the rears are ready just like the front o2s. the codes should go away with a tuner or eliminators. theres no point to throwing new sensors at them cuz there just ignored with a off road pipe.

Jbauer · Aug 2, 2008

waait wait wait- explain to me why that is again?
I almost sure they won't go away with mils. The mils will do their job, and fix all the codes exept the ones related to the heater.
Look at how mils are built, and what they do. This is a heater code, the heater circuit is a readiness progam on all its own, it has nothng to do with the reading of values.
I went through this same exact issue about 2 weeks ago man. In my case, it was only one side with the heater code (bank 2) , and i had Mils already installed. I swithed the sensors around, and then the code became Bank 1. I ten switced back, and the code became bank 2 again, so i bought a new sensor. Erase the code, and if it comes back, you need a new sensor.
There really should be no argument about this, get the heck out there, and use a multimeter to test the resistance of that sensor.

Killa · Aug 2, 2008

the check engine light is off today, I went to autozone and pull the code and it still their, but i dont see no check engine light on my dash, so I just eraser all the code, and hope it stay that way, if it came back, I have 2 new 02 sensort I bought long time ago ( bought 4 and only use 2, cause 2 in the back is useless ), if the code come back imma install 2 new o2.

COramprat · Aug 3, 2008

The reasoning I used to say that the heater circuit code was a false reading or a result of removing and reinstalling the O2's is the codes were for both bank 1 and 2. Merely disconnecting the O2's could cause the heater circuit fault since you are in essence disconnecting the heater circuit. Very rarely are both O2's going to crap out at the same time unless they were handled very roughly and broken. By suggesting replacing the O2's without first just resetting the codes after the install would have just been wasting money.

Killa · Aug 3, 2008

I eraser the code the other day, and yesterday it came back, so today I pull the code and it say I only have 1 code about

* P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency below Limit - Bank No 1.

so I guess im good, my state dont care about emission, so I guess I dont need mil eleminate. Thanks guy.

Jbauer · Aug 3, 2008

deja vu' for me.
The heater code always took about 2 days to set for me.
Lucky you, no emissions. I crap my pants everyday that time of the year gets closer.

Killa · Aug 3, 2008

Jbauer said:
deja vu' for me.
The heater code always took about 2 days to set for me.
Lucky you, no emissions. I crap my pants everyday that time of the year gets closer.

can you tell me about emission, I would like to know about it. what happent if you fail, does it cost alot ?

where I live we pay 5 buck for inspection sticker, and that it.

Jbauer · Aug 3, 2008

well, it cost 20 dollars for the test. IF you fail, the second test is free. IF you fail that, you pay 20 dollars for the next test.
If you can't pass, then you can't drive the car.

Killa · Aug 3, 2008

Jbauer said:
well, it cost 20 dollars for the test. IF you fail, the second test is free. IF you fail that, you pay 20 dollars for the next test.
If you can't pass, then you can't drive the car.

ok thanks, but if you fail and still drive the car, how the cop gonna know ? unless you are super bad day.

5 code after O/R H pipe ?

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