5-lug, did i do something wrong?

Are you saying the tops of the wheels are sticking out further than the bottoms (positive camber)? If so, I had a similar problem on mine when I replaced the A arm bushings and put in poly isolators with my stock springs. The strut was adjusted all the way inboard at the tower. I had to remove the poly isolators and it lowered the car and pulled the top of the wheels back in line. With it lowered some, I now have a factory spec alignment. I guess that the X2 might be contributing to the problem, but if you put in lowering springs it should improve it. CC plates would be good too if you don't already have them.

5.0 Mustang just did a 5 lug swap using the 94-95 spindles. They put two 5/8" hardened washers on the ball joint and then slid the spindle on. This helped keep the wheels straight. The bottom of the 87-93 spindles are larger than the 94-95, that is why you must space them up. The X2 ball joints are for lowered vehicles I think...right? Is your car lowered? I am gonna do this swap myself, use the washers on each side and still get an alignment.

SVT32VDOHC said:

5.0 Mustang just did a 5 lug swap using the 94-95 spindles. They put two 5/8" hardened washers on the ball joint and then slid the spindle on. This helped keep the wheels straight. The bottom of the 87-93 spindles are larger than the 94-95, that is why you must space them up. The X2 ball joints are for lowered vehicles I think...right? Is your car lowered? I am gonna do this swap myself, use the washers on each side and still get an alignment.

Click to expand...

X2 balljoints don't require a .330" spacer since they are already higher than the SN95 and fox. (X2 on left, stock on right)

View attachment 455390

From Steeda's site:
When a Mustang is lowered, the front roll center changes due to the new
position of the suspension pivot points. Lower the car too much and the
front roll center drops to well below ground level, and worse than that,
the roll center moves side to side as the body rolls, resulting in lost grip
and erratic handling. The lower roll center causes the body to roll more
easily. Countering this tendency usually requires a significant increase in
front spring rate to simply control the added roll due to the lowered the roll
center. This higher spring rate not only hurts ride quality, but it also
reduces grip on rough surfaces, as the stiffer springs cause the tire to skip
over bumps instead of following the contours of the road. The X2 balljoint
was designed to eliminate these problems by correcting the front roll
center geometry. The X2 balljoint has a longer shaft, to raise the spindle
relative to the balljoint pivot point. Spacers for the springs are included in
the X2 kit to maintain the same ride height as a stock balljoint, but with
a much improved roll center height. With the roll center restored to the
proper height, smaller front swaybars and softer springs can be used.
The result is a suspension that works for you to accommodate the small
and large imperfections that are in any road or track, allowing the tires to
stay planted on the ground where they belong.

Make sure you didn't adjust the toe out too far, you dont want to run out of threads and have the tie rod come off while your going down the road.

http://www.mpsautosalvage.com/products/list.cfm?TypeID=39

These guys have a kit about half way down the page.

Used, but it looks like it has everything you need to do the front properly.


Cheers

Question

Question.

When you install 94-95 spindles on Fox. The spacer (washer)goes before the spindle correct. I have done this before on a 91 lx with stock a arms and seems to be they I did it but about 5year ago. I am now installing a set on a 93 GT with AJE K member and coil over set. The issue i am having seems to be the 5/8 washer stack to the correct width when under the spindle does not allow enought threads for the spindle to seat. due to the washer of 5/8 hold dia to bottom out? if they could go on top would work maybe but not how it is supposed to go?

Spacer

solves everything then.

spindle spacer then castle nut.