I have been reading here for a while and thought I would share my project and learn from yours.
My mustang isnt going to be a California Special Clone. More of a California Special Restomod.
Mike
I have the engine compartment ready to paint. Then I am going to install the engine and install all the front suspension.I still have some rough edges to clean up in these pictures. I am at a standstill with painting until it warms up. The pic below is the color the car will be.
In the pic below The triangle gusset was boxed in to add a little strength and keep the road dirt from collecting in the corner. Mike
Thanks
Nice mustang 68keyblr
crane 550 I have been following your mustang modifications.
For all those mustang fans that are not a fan of the quality of the lower Shelby side scoop I am in the process of making a pair for my 68. There are some aftermarket scoops out there I just wanted to make my own.
The scoop in the pictures is not a finished product. IT was made using the original shelby scoop as a base and adding to it with bondo and fiberglass cloth.
I will have to make a mold to make the finish product. I could make a mold and make them out of fiberglass . I have been looking into making them out of a pourable resin. I would like the finish product to be thick like the plug I made. It seems it would be a lot more stable than fiberglass.
Any suggestions appreciated. Mike
This is the scoop I used as a base for the one in the picture.
68keyblr
Hours and hours.In the pictures it is a little crooked.Its not bolted on tight and I bumped it, and the door isnt aligned perfect yet. The top edge lines up better.
Thats one of those jobs that you shouldnt count. I would guess about 12 to 15 hours. To get a perfect fit to the body line and get it to lay flush was time consuming. It is flush with the sharp edge of the C body line. Im one of those people thats never happy.
The time involved is the reason I am making a mold so if I need another set I can make them.
I would like to find a pourable resin that can be poured into a mold so I can make them the same thickness and would be a duplicate that would be more consistant than fiberglass.
Now think of how many hours I will have in the mold. This is a hobby for me.
Mike
That's what makes this hobby fun and satisfying - the result after too many hours to count. I really like your work, keep the pictures and updates coming.
Thanks Jake
Its definitely a step forward. Now I can install the engine and front suspension , and work out all the componits in the engine compartment.
Mike
I have been mounting my flywheel clutch and pressure plate to the 302 engine. I am doing a t5 swap so I had to order a different spacer plate for the back of the engine and had to buy a racing starter to clear the headers. I ground a little off the edge of the bellhousing just to get the bellhousing on.I have two questions.
On a T5 does the gearbox mount to the bellhousing at a slight angle/tilt to the left? I sure hope so!
If my header tube on each both sides make contact with the bellhousing is it going to rattle or create problems with heat? Very little surface contact.
Thanks Mike
Im still trying to get the clutch stuff worked out to Install the engine so I can get on with painting.
Here are some pictures of a bracket I fabricated to mount the slave cylinder. Headers as usual made things difficult. I will wrap the headers and make a heat shield next. I will be back to painting this week.
Do you think my bracket is strong enough? !/4 inch angle. The bracket is not bolted up tight yet. I need some longer bolts.
Mike
i had to do somthing similar on my 35 ford truck using the same cylinder
the throw is not quite enough ,i need about a 1/4 inch more . i used the half ball from a 289 rocker for the pivot ball in the clutch release arm, it was a perfect fit. i have a 3/4 bore master cylinder and i am going to change to a 1 inch bore to see if it will throw a bit more it pushes real easy now so the 1 inch bore should not be to much different.
horse sence
This unit has not been tested. I bought it for this aplication so it should work. I cant remember who sold me the kit. It included a cantalever that mounts in the firewall and Included all the linkages to get it hooked up all the way tothe pedal,
I am concerned with having enough throw. I can adjust my metal braket back and forth by putting washers behind the bracket or taking washers out. Plus the rod adjustment.
I now have three washers behind the bracket and the throwout bearing is against the presure plate fingers with light pressure.
I gave a lot of thought to adjustment and I hope I have enough in both directions to find the sweet spot.
I finished up and am going to install the engine tomarrow. Its ready to plug in the T5 transmission
Mike
I felt that the slave cylinder was to close to the exhaust so I made a linkage to get it away. There is very little room between the steering bix and the linkage. The bottom push rod needs to be longer and a round end to fit the clutch fork.
Mike