So I'm new to the site, more of a guest really as I don't own a Ford (mopar guy actually, please don't shun me as I'm here trying to help a friend with his car). So I found a Co worker of mine brake spindle, calipers, and rotors from a 75-79 Granada while searching for disc brakes for my valiant. With a little research I fig they would be great on dans 69 and for $100 a steal. We replaced every thing and cleaned the spindles. We used 73 mustang outer tie rods. Since the Granada was long gone I couldn't get the proportioning valve and mc. We used a new mc from a 73 maverick for manual disc brakes and used the rod from the mustang mc. The new maverick rod was 1" longer. I was reading any Ford proportioning valve from a rear wheel drive disc front drum rear car should work. We used one from a early fox body mustang and then bleed the system real well. Now his peddle is rather soft not spongy like air in the system but soft like power brakes. But the thing I really don't like or get is he can't get his brakes to lock up at all. He said the brakes are a vast improvement but I'm not satisfied with them yet and don't want to see him or his classic car in an accident. Now I'm thinking its something with the fox body proportioning valve but before I start throwing any part or cash at this I was hoping for a little insight. Thank you.
69 Mustang Granada Disc Brake Swap Problems
- Thread starter dennday67
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bartl
Active Member
Make sure the prop valve is plumbed correctly. Also make sure the calipers are on their respective sides or you'll never get the air out of them. Pedal should be rock hard.
The bleader screws on the calipers are pointed to the rear and the hoses towards the front. I have the rear of the mc going to the front top of the prop valve. The front of the prop valve with the removable fitting going to the front dr side. And bottom going to the passenger front. And front of the mc is going to the rear of the prop valve.
horseballz
10 Year Member
Been there, done that, got the tee-shirt! He needs a residual valve inline anywhere between the prop valve and the rear brake hose. The Maverick MC does not have one built in nor does the prop valve.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-3279/
HTH,
Gene
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-3279/
HTH,
Gene
horseballz
10 Year Member
88-ish Ranger manual disc "might" have it, but you already have the Mav unit plumbed and it looks more correct, so I say go with whatcha got and put the valve in to be sure. And +10 on the comments about bleeding. Bleed the livin' pi$$ on the front calipers, as it is pretty difficult to get ALL the air out! You might even want to jack the rear of the car "way up" to get the bleeders pointing as close to "straight up" as possible.
My $.02,
Gene
My $.02,
Gene
horseballz
10 Year Member
Yes, 10 PSI needed for the rear only. I plumbed mine just before the rear brake hose connection, but right off the prop valve will work fine if you have the room. Many folks claim that using this kind of disc setup manually (without a booster) requires a lot of pedal/foot pressure and while its true for complete wheel lock-up, I find it quite pleasant for normal driving and a vast improvement over the the drums, especially the rate at which the brakes get applied. I love pretty much this exact setup on my 68. Only difference is that mine has 69 spindles, calipers and brackets.
Just My $.02 Again,
Gene
Just My $.02 Again,
Gene
So I added the residual pressure valve after the proportioning valve, readjusted the rear shoes for a better fit and bled the brakes again. He said the peddle is higher and gets firm half way down. I held the peddle down around the half way point and it didn't move and maintained pressure. I had him run it on Jack stands to test the rear and had no hang up. Thank you again horse.
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