Looks like a stator circuit and thus a 3G. That would be my preference anyhow. Just loop the stator wire from the regulator harness to the solo port on your 3G case.
JR has put up a picture of the sheetmetal ground where the EEC ground connects. As long as you add another ground from the engine to the frame or body, you're good IMHO (this isnt as ideal as JR's method, with regard to common grounding points, but functionally it works well).
The alt grounds through its mounting bracket and through the engine. This is why you want the extra ground path (from motor to chassis ground).
Fuse the alt for the weakest link. I would probably try a 125 amp fuse, since your length of 4 AWG might not be rated for 150 amps. Your local Napa should sell the fuse and holder. Pep or AZ in your area might as well.
Good luck.
JR has put up a picture of the sheetmetal ground where the EEC ground connects. As long as you add another ground from the engine to the frame or body, you're good IMHO (this isnt as ideal as JR's method, with regard to common grounding points, but functionally it works well).
The alt grounds through its mounting bracket and through the engine. This is why you want the extra ground path (from motor to chassis ground).
Fuse the alt for the weakest link. I would probably try a 125 amp fuse, since your length of 4 AWG might not be rated for 150 amps. Your local Napa should sell the fuse and holder. Pep or AZ in your area might as well.
Good luck.
i did the 3g alt swap using the exact same alt (part store 94-95 130A unit)
there will be a little grinding required to get the new alternator to fit, the case is larger and the stock fox alt bracket needs a little massaging with a die grinder and cutter, doesnt need to much, just take the bracket off and you will be able to see where it needs ground down some to fit, also, the upper ear on the new alt isnt threaded like a fox alt.
you will need to get new bolt and a nut to properly fasten the upper ear.
as for the wiring, i forget the wire colors exactly.
but there are two connections that plug in a fox alt, one of them has two larger blk/org and one small wht/blue, i am not 100% sure on the colors as i havent looked at them lately but you will know what i am talking about, its the wide connector with the 2 larger wires and one small wire.
what you will do it cut the small wire from this plug, take the stock plug with the two remaining larger wires and tape it up or something, just get it out of the way safely.
now the small wire you cut, it needs to be connected the small male terminal in the 3g alt. you can used a small crimp on female spade connector, thats what i used.
now the other of the two factory plugs, it will just plug right in the new 3g with no modification.
now you need to run a wire from the stud on the 3g to the hot side of the starter solenoid, i used a 4ga wire and some brass eyelets. you will need to fuse this wire.
i used a 150A wafer fuse, i searched amazon.com and found a fuse and case for like 15$
as for the extra grounds, extra grounds in a good idea on any car. cant ever have too many grounds.
i have a 2ga grd running from the motor mount bolt to a hole on the swaybar mount ( not runnig a sway bar)
you can place the ground wherever you want, just connect the engine to the body somewhere.
not sure if you knew all this but i figured i'd post, i did the exact same thing your fixing to do some so i figured it help some.
the 3g 130A alt charges alot better than a crappy fox alts.
i did the swap when i did my efan swap. the alt works killer.
good luck.
there will be a little grinding required to get the new alternator to fit, the case is larger and the stock fox alt bracket needs a little massaging with a die grinder and cutter, doesnt need to much, just take the bracket off and you will be able to see where it needs ground down some to fit, also, the upper ear on the new alt isnt threaded like a fox alt.
you will need to get new bolt and a nut to properly fasten the upper ear.
as for the wiring, i forget the wire colors exactly.
but there are two connections that plug in a fox alt, one of them has two larger blk/org and one small wht/blue, i am not 100% sure on the colors as i havent looked at them lately but you will know what i am talking about, its the wide connector with the 2 larger wires and one small wire.
what you will do it cut the small wire from this plug, take the stock plug with the two remaining larger wires and tape it up or something, just get it out of the way safely.
now the small wire you cut, it needs to be connected the small male terminal in the 3g alt. you can used a small crimp on female spade connector, thats what i used.
now the other of the two factory plugs, it will just plug right in the new 3g with no modification.
now you need to run a wire from the stud on the 3g to the hot side of the starter solenoid, i used a 4ga wire and some brass eyelets. you will need to fuse this wire.
i used a 150A wafer fuse, i searched amazon.com and found a fuse and case for like 15$
as for the extra grounds, extra grounds in a good idea on any car. cant ever have too many grounds.
i have a 2ga grd running from the motor mount bolt to a hole on the swaybar mount ( not runnig a sway bar)
you can place the ground wherever you want, just connect the engine to the body somewhere.
not sure if you knew all this but i figured i'd post, i did the exact same thing your fixing to do some so i figured it help some.
the 3g 130A alt charges alot better than a crappy fox alts.
i did the swap when i did my efan swap. the alt works killer.
good luck.
sorry, i was too lazy to find the exact page, but there is a good bit of info in this forsale thread:
3G Alternator Upgrade Complete Kit Small case - Corral Forums
3G Alternator Upgrade Complete Kit Small case - Corral Forums
stones would work but take a little longer, a good carbide cutter will eat away at the aluminum real fast. but its no reason to just go out and buy one if you have some stones laying around.
IIRC the bolt i used was either 3/8 or 7/16
just get one that fits in the upper ear good. the hole on the top of the fox alt bracket is pretty big, so what ever fits through the ear on the alt will fit through the bracket.
Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero
ground problems.
One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot
on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the
rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean
shiny spot on the block.
One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to
the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt
and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal
around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.
The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect
(about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the
ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground
in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an
absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars
Note: The quick disconnect may have fallen victim to damage or removal by
a previous owner. However, it is still of utmost importance that the black/green
wires have a high quality ground..
The screwdriver points to the common body ground point for the battery and extra 4 gauge alternator ground
Picture courtesy timewarped1972
Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo
shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing
to cover the lugs and make things look nice.
ground problems.
One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot
on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the
rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean
shiny spot on the block.
One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to
the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt
and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal
around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.
The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect
(about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the
ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground
in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an
absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars
Note: The quick disconnect may have fallen victim to damage or removal by
a previous owner. However, it is still of utmost importance that the black/green
wires have a high quality ground..
The screwdriver points to the common body ground point for the battery and extra 4 gauge alternator ground
Picture courtesy timewarped1972
Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo
shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing
to cover the lugs and make things look nice.