87 5.0 Troubleshooting & Solutions

Lateralgeez · Apr 4, 2016

Yeah it's ok except header clearance and water pump snout. Fans are in front of radiator until I find a way to move it forward. They did an awesome job considering the $2000 budget.

Turns out silicon gasket material is basically impossible to dissolve. Apparently hexane and trichloroethylene work but I don't want cancer. Sulfuric acid too but there goes the aluminum. Wonder if I can mix some inhibitors with the sulfuric.... hmmm

stykthyn · Apr 4, 2016

Nice. I've always liked that swap.

a91what · Apr 4, 2016

Me to. My cousin has a blown up rx7 in his garage I'm dying to get my hands on!!!

Oh it would be sooooo much fun.

stykthyn · Apr 4, 2016

a91what said:
Me to. My cousin has a blown up rx7 in his garage I'm dying to get my hands on!!!

Oh it would be sooooo much fun.

That's an ls swap waiting to happen

a91what · Apr 4, 2016

stykthyn said:
That's an ls swap waiting to happen

NOOOOO!

I refuse to let him use a Briggs and Stratton

Lateralgeez · Apr 5, 2016

Just do a 351 dart block with big twins...

Interesting story behind this one. It was built for a rivalry between friends, the other car being a big turbo Supra. Previously running n/a with spray, the fox couldn't catch it. So the man started this, died, and his son has almost finished it. He's shooting for over 1000 wheel with final tune.

Lateralgeez · Apr 5, 2016

Here is the pump. I'm going to put a fan on it to help dissipate heat. Only problem is water coming from engine will stir up bucket, not allowing crap to settle.

A filter that will flow enough for this pump probably won't catch much. #nofilter

Lateralgeez · Apr 5, 2016

But wait, I found a filter on the end of a funnel. So here is the intake

Lateralgeez · Apr 5, 2016

Pump -> garden hose -> upper radiator hose

Removed backflow preventer. Wrapped with electrical tape to match radiator hose diameter.

Thankfully no leaks

Lateralgeez · Apr 5, 2016

Subwoofer or pump stand, potato potahto. Garbage bag, rachet strap, walaa

And here's the setup.

Lateralgeez · Apr 5, 2016

It's a helluva pump. Collapsing the garden hose on intake side. Going to use 1/2" vacuum hose instead.

The only thing this setup is not good for is particulate dropout. Water coming into the bucket stirs everything up. A lower speed/volume pump wouldn't stir it up as much but then it wouldn't clean all the coolant passages very well. Whatever, don't care. Once the crap is worked loose it will come out in the final rinse anyway.

Circulation is reverse to normal coolant flow because it was more convenient and works with gravity. Also I'm running the pump in reverse anyway due to current belt setup so if I start it during the flush it won't work against itself. But it will probably outflow the pump and make a mess Piss.

I'm not sure there are any advantages to doing this vs. just running the wash mix (sodium citrate) and driving it around. This is much more fun.

Lateralgeez · Apr 6, 2016

New setup with garden hose to 5/8" barb and rubber hose. Can't filter while pumping because it restricts flow. Running it for about 20 min with fan on it, then stop pump to let it cool & filter water.

Lateralgeez · Apr 6, 2016

This better explains electrolysis, relevant for iron block & aluminum radiator, water pump, etc.

http://www.ve-labs.net/electrolysis-101

And here's their reverse flush process

http://www.ve-labs.net/electrolysis-101/how-to-reverse-flush

I'm going to ground the radiator and maybe install an inline filter.

Lateralgeez · Apr 16, 2016

It's doing this thing where one cylinder kicks in an out randomly. Sometimes it comes on under throttle. Sometimes not. I have new plugs and wires, dizzy, coilpack.

Maybe a bad contact in the dizzy? If the plug wires rest against each other does it cause this? Or exhaust manifold gasket leak...

Random makes it hard to troubleshoot. However, it's done this since I first got it so that rules out everything I mentioned.

jrichker · Apr 16, 2016

If you haven't dumped the codes recently, now would be a good time to do it again...

Dump codes sticky

Look at the top of the 5.0 Tech forum where the sticky threads are posted. One of them is how to dump the computer codes. Codes may be present even if the CEL(Check Engine Light) isn’t on. I highly suggest that you read it and follow the instructions to dump the codes. http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/how-to-pull-codes-from-eec4.889006/

stykthyn · Apr 17, 2016

It's going it because you keep saying dizzy.

Lateralgeez · Apr 17, 2016

After the drift event it wouldn't start. Fried another main relay. Plastic melted around one relay pin.

Checked around the engine, thankfully no wires getting melted. Last time relays blew it was a wire against the cylinder head.

And the ecm continues silent treatment. Might send it to Guantanamo for some unethical interrogation.

Ok, distributor. That wasn't so bad after all.

jrichker · Apr 17, 2016

Lateralgeez said:
After the drift event it wouldn't start. Fried another main relay. Plastic melted around one relay pin.

Checked around the engine, thankfully no wires getting melted. Last time relays blew it was a wire against the cylinder head.

And the ecm continues silent treatment. Might send it to Guantanamo for some unethical interrogation.

Ok, distributor. That wasn't so bad after all.

Interesting story, it is just that - a story. No details to clue us in on what actually happened.

Which relay , what color wire & stripe, which pin in the relay?

Lateralgeez · Apr 18, 2016

Miata 'main' or 'fuel injection' relay.
The melted wire I fixed was yellow with red stripe. Sorry this might not be a good place to post since it involves Miata parts.

I suspect it's caused by something retarded I did previously.

][/I

87 5.0 Troubleshooting & Solutions

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