89 Clutch Issues

The plastic stock quadrant is overly flexible and the teeth that do the self adjusting tend to wear out after a bit so you're probably correct. My suggestion would be an aftermarket aluminum quadrant and a firewall adjuster for the cable.

Is your cable stretched out? If your cable is stretched, then go ahead and replace it at the same time. I would for sure pick up a firewall adjuster and new quadrant.

Mustang Clutch Cable, Quadrant & Firewall Adjuster

You shouldn't need an adjustable cable with the firewall adjuster, that ebay link would be all you needed but the firewall adjuster in that auction looks like it only has 1 mounting point (I've seend quite a few that have dislodged themselves from the hole in the firewall). Late Model Resto has better quality for sure but if you were strapped for cash the ebay one would work if you don't strip the screw hole out and keep an eye on it.

I bought an adjustable cable when I did my quadrant. I also added the firewall adjuster. I get it close underneath then fine tune it with the firewall adjuster. I'm pleased.

Clutch adjustment
Do the clutch adjustment first before considering any other problems. With the stock plastic quadrant and cable, pull up on the clutch pedal until it comes upward toward you. It will make a ratcheting sound as the self adjuster works. To release to tension of the stock quadrant, use a screwdriver to lift the ratchet paw up and out of engagement with the quadrant teeth.

A binding clutch cable will make the clutch very stiff. If the cable is misrouted or has gotten too close to the exhaust, it will definitely bind. The binding common to adjustable cables is often due to misplacement of the adjusting nuts on the fork end of the cable. This will also cause the cable to wear and fray. Both nuts should be on the back side of the fork so that the domed nut faces the fork and the other nut serves as jam or locknut to the domed nut.

Clutch pedal adjustment with aftermarket quadrant and cable: I like to have the clutch completely disengaged and still have about 1.5” travel left before the pedal hits the floor. This means that I have only about 1” of free play at the top before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Keep in mind that these figures are all approximate. When properly adjusted, there will not be any slack in the clutch cable. You will have 4-15 lbs preload on the clutch cable.

The quadrant needs to be replaced if you use any type of aftermarket cable or adjuster. My preference is a Ford Racing quadrant, adjustable cable and Steeda firewall adjuster. The adjustable Ford Racing cable is just as good as the stock OEM cable. It allows a greater range of adjustment than a stock cable with a aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. Combined with the Steeda adjuster, it lets you set the initial cable preload and then fine tune the clutch engagement point to your liking without getting under the car.

Using a stock OEM cable, firewall adjuster and a single hook quadrant may result in not having any free pedal travel before the clutch starts to disengage. I found this out the hard way.
See Summit Racing - High Performance Car and Truck Parts l 800-230-3030 for the following parts.
Ford Racing M-7553-B302 - Ford Racing V-8 Mustang Adjustable Clutch Linkage Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com Cable and quadrant assembly $90

Steeda Autosports 555-7021 - Steeda Autosports Firewall Cable Adjusters - Overview - SummitRacing.com Steeda firewall adjuster. $40

Mudpuppy said:

No it is a brand new cable along with the brand new clutch. Just not working right and hasn't been.

Checked your link - do you sell just the quadrant and firewall adjuster without the cable?

Click to expand...

We do. You can buy it with or without the cable.