Electrical 89 Mustang - Dead battery - Clicking from circuit breaker

rushcanuck

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Jul 6, 2013
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Hello,

I've got a 1989 Mustang LX, 5.0L, T-5, non-A/C, power locks, and windows. I've swapped the A9L for a MS2PNP standalone, I've also swapped for the 95ish mustang starter motor. rear mount battery. All of this has worked for the past year.

Sunday we were at the track, had no issues. Engine ran good, started fine. Nothing seemed out of the normal when parked.

This morning (wednesday) I went to go and drive the car to work for the first time since parking it and the battery was flat out dead, my charger registered it at 8.5V and 5% charge. Spent the day recharging the battery before attempting to track down the issue.

Now when you connect the negative battery terminal the interior light flicks on, and there is a click from under the hood a few times, the interior light dims with this sound. So I tracked it down the sound to the small circuit breaker on the starter solenoid. It has a black wire with a white line on it that tracks down into the main car harness.
105797491_197271928261039_2275563349205444485_n.jpg
106464156_1625078604325441_7716633284782186338_n.jpg


If you touch it while hooking up the battery you can feel the click in the circuit breaker, and it and the wire to it gets fairly hot in a short period of time.

Anyone know what this does? where to search for a short? can you even replace these circuit breakers?


Any help appreciated

-David
 
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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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That breaker is for the power windows....or locks. Not looking at a schematic and its kinda late here..so I already started drinkin'.

It could be one of the power door lock solenoids are stuck or the switch is stuck. I think it could be for the windows. Take it off the solenoid and see what dosen't work. It's either windows or power locks....I'm thinking windows but could be wrong.
 

jrichker

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@rushcanuck

No Crank checklist for 5.0 Mustangs

Revised 05-Oct-2010 to update Fluke references.

No crank. slow crank and stuck starter solenoid problems have the same root causes – low battery voltage and poor connections. For that reason, they are grouped together.
Use the same initial group of tests to find the root cause of both no crank and stuck solenoid problems.

Since some of the tests will bypass the safety interlocks, make sure that the car is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Becoming a pancake isn’t part of the repair process…


1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check battery for low charge and dead cells. A good battery will measure 12-13 volts at full charge with the ignition switch in the Run position but without the engine running.
A voltmeter placed across the battery terminals should show a minimum of 9.5-10 volts when the ignition switch is turned to the Start position and the starter engages or tries to engage. Less than this will result in a clicking solenoid, or slow cranking (if it cranks at all) or a starter solenoid that sticks and welds the contacts together.

Most auto parts stores will check your battery for free. It does not have to be installed in the car to have it checked; you can carry it with you to the auto parts store.

The battery posts and inside of the battery post terminals should be scraped clean with a knife or battery post cleaner tool. This little trick will fix a surprising number of no start problems.

The clamp on with 2 bolts battery terminal ends are a known problem causer. Any place you see green on a copper wire is corrosion. Corrosion gets in the clamped joint and works its way up the wire under the insulation. Corroded connections do not conduct electricity well. Avoid them like the plague...

If the starter solenoid welds the contacts, then the starter will attempt to run anytime there is power in the battery. The cables and solenoid will get very hot, and may even start smoking. The temporary fix for a welded starter solenoid is to disconnect the battery and smack the back of the solenoid housing a sharp blow with a hammer. This may cause the contacts to unstick and work normally for a while.

A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection while trying to start the car: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem.

See http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf for help for help troubleshooting voltage drops across connections and components. .



2.) Check the battery to engine block ground down near the oil filter, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall. All grounds should be clean and shiny. Use some sandpaper to clean them up.

3.) Jump the big terminals on the starter solenoid next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring is good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid.

The rest of the tech note only concerns no crank problems. If your problem was a stuck solenoid, go back to step 1.

4.) Then pull the small push on connector (small red/blue wire) off the starter solenoid (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Then jump between the screw and the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it cranks, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.

5.) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then you have wiring problems.

Typical start circuit...
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds



6.) Pull the starter and take it to AutoZone or Pep Boys and have them test it. Starter fails test, then replace it. If you got this far, the starter is probably bad.


Starter solenoid wiring for 86-91 Mustang

Starter solenoid wiring 92-93 Mustang or earlier Mustang with upgraded high torque mini starter.


Electrical checks for the switches and starter solenoid

Remove the small red/blue wire from the starter solenoid. Use a screwdriver to bridge the connection from the battery positive connection on the starter solenoid to the small screw where the red/blue wire was connected. The starter should crank the engine. If it does not, the starter solenoid is defective.

If the starter does crank the engine, the problem is in the clutch safety circuit (5 speed) or Neutral Sense Switch (auto trans) or ignition switch.


Typical start circuit...
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds



You will need a voltmeter or test lamp for the rest of the checks. Connect one lead of the voltmeter or test lamp to ground. The other lead will connect to the item under test.
Look for 12 volts on the white/pink wire when the ignition switch is turned to the Start position. Check the ignition switch first.
No 12 volts, replace the ignition switch.

The next step will require you to push the clutch pedal to the floor (5 speed) or put the transmission in neutral (auto trans) while the ignition switch is turned to the Start position.
Good 12 volts, check the clutch safety switch (5 speed) or Neutral Sense Switch (auto trans) for good 12 volts on both sides of the switches. No 12 volts on both sides of the switch and the switches are defective or out of adjustment. Check the wiring for bad connections while you are at it.
 

rushcanuck

New Member
Jul 6, 2013
18
0
2
28
That breaker is for the power windows....or locks. Not looking at a schematic and its kinda late here..so I already started drinkin'.

It could be one of the power door lock solenoids are stuck or the switch is stuck. I think it could be for the windows. Take it off the solenoid and see what dosen't work. It's either windows or power locks....I'm thinking windows but could be wrong.
Okay anyone know how to actually track down this? it appears like its the power locks, but in some cars its also the windows. The car has never had functional door locks, I've actually pulled the actuator from the passenger door already, and the drivers door never worked. What do I do to actually delete the power door locks out of the car completely.


@jrichker

No Crank checklist for 5.0 Mustangs
Hopefully you have a similar breakdown of tracking down a draw from the black and white wire w/circuit breaker on the starter solenoid. The cars battery was dead because of a draw from this wire...Once charging the battery the car cranks and starts no issues
 

jrichker

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Mar 10, 2000
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Okay anyone know how to actually track down this? it appears like its the power locks, but in some cars its also the windows. The car has never had functional door locks, I've actually pulled the actuator from the passenger door already, and the drivers door never worked. What do I do to actually delete the power door locks out of the car completely.


@jrichker



Hopefully you have a similar breakdown of tracking down a draw from the black and white wire w/circuit breaker on the starter solenoid. The cars battery was dead because of a draw from this wire...Once charging the battery the car cranks and starts no issues
PM me your email address and I will send you a complete Ford Factory 89 Mustang electrical diagram set. The zip file is 2.5 MB and is too big to fit through Stangnet's email gateway.

The plug shapes on the diagrams match the plug shapes on the actual plug. The diagram is divided up by the layout of the car. The first diagram is for the very front of the car, and it works its way to the rear of the car page by page.

They are in a zip file format to reduce the size of the package. If you don't have Windows 7 or Windows 8, or later, you’ll need WinZip or other Windows archive tool to extract them from the zip file.. See www.majorgeeks.com - Download Freeware and Shareware Computer Utilities for a free download.

You will need the Adobe Acrobat viewer which is also a free download – www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html - Adobe Reader download - All versions
 
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