9 inch questions

STSFCTN67 · Jan 11, 2008

Ultrastang please help...

I just purchased a complete versailles 9 inch rear rear and a seperate 9 inch pumpkin and have a few questions. The seperate 9 inch is a 4:11 spool rear that I have no use for but was part of the deal

Is it better to sell the pumpkin or send it to a shop to install the trac loc and gears that I want?

I have an 8 inch now that has 3:55 gears torque loc rear, new seals, new bearings new drums new pads new EVERYTHING. The rear has less than 1500 miles on it. I do not think I could sell the rear for what I have in it, is it better to part it out or try to sell it complete?

I have a T5z tranny and had the drive shaft shortened, will I need to shorten it agin with the new rear?

What is the best way to route the emergency brake on the versailles rear?

I was gonna go with a 90 Mustang booster and MC. Are these fitting Metric or anything like that and/or will I need to reflare lines again?

Thanks

fasttback · Jan 12, 2008

STSFCTN67 said:
Ultrastang please help...
I'm not Ultrastang, but I will try to answer your questions -

Is it better to sell the pumpkin or send it to a shop to install the trac loc and gears that I want?

- depends on the cases and condition, if the case is nodular (original or aftermarket) I would use that one. Either way, it sounds like you are going to rebuild the rearend. A "ready to run" 4.11, spool rearend should be easier to sell.
Also, do you know if both are 28 or 31 spline?

I have an 8 inch now that has 3:55 gears torque loc rear, new seals, new bearings new drums new pads new EVERYTHING. The rear has less than 1500 miles on it. I do not think I could sell the rear for what I have in it, is it better to part it out or try to sell it complete?

- most likely you will not get what you paid for it. I would part it out, but this can get messy and time consuming. Shipping a complete rearend would be bulky and costly.

I have a T5z tranny and had the drive shaft shortened, will I need to shorten it agin with the new rear?

I forget the difference between the 8 and 9", but yokes come in different lengths to offset these differences.

Hope this helps.

ultrastang · Jan 13, 2008

STSFCTN67 said:
Ultrastang please help...

I just purchased a complete versailles 9 inch rear rear and a seperate 9 inch pumpkin and have a few questions. The seperate 9 inch is a 4:11 spool rear that I have no use for but was part of the deal

Is it better to sell the pumpkin or send it to a shop to install the trac loc and gears that I want?

I have an 8 inch now that has 3:55 gears torque loc rear, new seals, new bearings new drums new pads new EVERYTHING. The rear has less than 1500 miles on it. I do not think I could sell the rear for what I have in it, is it better to part it out or try to sell it complete?

I have a T5z tranny and had the drive shaft shortened, will I need to shorten it agin with the new rear?

What is the best way to route the emergency brake on the versailles rear?

I was gonna go with a 90 Mustang booster and MC. Are these fitting Metric or anything like that and/or will I need to reflare lines again?

Thanks

Versailles didn't exactly come with performance ratios (2.47, 2.50, 2.75 or 3.00:1). So, it's just up to you whether you keep the Versailles 3rd member to build it and sell the extra 3rd member, or build upon the extra 3rd member you got. Spools aren't good for street use, so I definitely wouldn't consider using the spool.

The stock driveshaft in my '68 is 51" from the center of the front U-joint eye to the center of the rear U-joint eye. I didn't have to shorten the driveshaft with the T-5 and Versailles, but I also used a companion flange (flange sticking out the front of the 3rd member) from a Ford half ton pickup. The flanges from the pickups are shorter than the ones from the Ford passenger cars.

The 8-inch should sell pretty easily, but I can't put a price on what you could get for it.

Hopefully, you got the parking brake cables/cable brackets with the Versailles(?) If so, you will need to splice them into the existing part of the Mustang's cables. You can overlap and clamp them together with cable clamps.

The Fox booster can be adapted to the earlier Mustang, but the '87-'93 Mustang MC is designed for discs front/drums rear, and like the SN95 MC, has metric bubble flare ports. There's no residual pressure valve in the Fox MC's secondary port, but this MC does have dual diameter pistons. The primary piston is large [about 1-3/16"], but the secondary piston [about 13/16"] may not be big enough to deliver the fluid you would need for the Versailles' caliper pistons.
http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/7292/1990mustanggtmcultrastanp4.jpg

A better candidate may be this one [1-inch bore '99-'04 SN95 Mustang V6 MC] :
http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/92/kieths65053zd5.jpg

STSFCTN67 · Jan 13, 2008

Thanks Gentlemen!!

I did not get the cables what are my options?

Between the two pumpkins, what would be the better choice to build from. We know one pumpkin is from the versailles but the other I think had WAA marking on the inside of the case?

MustangGuru · Jan 14, 2008

May be interested

I keep going back and forth whether to keep my 8 inch or swap to a 9 inch. If I kept the 8, I want a 3.55 trac-loc unit. What would you want for the pumpkin out of that 8 inch rear?

65fastbackresto · Jan 14, 2008

What would you want

for the whole rear end including the brakes on it? Also would like to see receipt to verify the new parts installed. (yes I`ve been boned recently, can still feel the pain).

IF your in Denver shipping couln`t be that much to arkansas from there wouldn`t think.

ultrastang · Jan 14, 2008

STSFCTN67 said:
Thanks Gentlemen!!

I did not get the cables what are my options?

Between the two pumpkins, what would be the better choice to build from. We know one pumpkin is from the versailles but the other I think had WAA marking on the inside of the case?

Hmmm...without the Versailles brake cables/brackets, it's going to be very hard to setup the parking brakes properly and make them work.

If the extra 3rd member you have is the WAA, WAB, or WAR casting, stay away from it. These are notoriously weak 3rd members. Notice the "WAR" casting at the top of the picture on the 3rd member. This is where the other castings --WAA, WAB will be: http://www.ultrastang.com/Images/Scanned/Rears/01-m.jpg
This is the face of what the WAA, WAB and WAR casting looks like: http://www.ultrastang.com/Images/Scanned/Rears/05-s.jpg

--Not to be confused with ultimate factory 9-inch 3rd member casting --the N-case:http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/8622/monarch9inchncase003em9.jpg

fasttback · Jan 14, 2008

ultrastang said:
If the extra 3rd member you have is the WAA, WAB, or WAR casting, stay away from it. These are notoriously weak 3rd members.

Ultrastang, just curious about these cases...I've heard/read different opinions about these cases. They do contain the extra webbing like the later nodular cases, but are weaker than later non-nodular cases (e.g. C7XX). What exactly is the weak part about these cases as compared to other Ford cases?

I not picking on you or anyone, I just want to know more than "these are weak cases." Right now I have a WAB, C7XX, and nodular D0OB on my workbench. The 1957 WAB seems to be the best cast (not in material), but visually clean and uses the larger 3.06" carrier bearings. Any insight would be appreciated.

STSFCTN67 · Jan 14, 2008

I have my hands full right now getting the car back together after having it painted so I do not know when I will be doing the swap. At my current pace it will more than likely be some time this Summer. For those who PMed me about the pumpkin, it might be a while.

Are there any online diagrams of the cable setup for the versailles? I also heard Lokar had some type of cables that I could use??

ultrastang · Jan 15, 2008

fasttback said:
Ultrastang, just curious about these cases...I've heard/read different opinions about these cases. They do contain the extra webbing like the later nodular cases, but are weaker than later non-nodular cases (e.g. C7XX). What exactly is the weak part about these cases as compared to other Ford cases?

I not picking on you or anyone, I just want to know more than "these are weak cases." Right now I have a WAB, C7XX, and nodular D0OB on my workbench. The 1957 WAB seems to be the best cast (not in material), but visually clean and uses the larger 3.06" carrier bearings. Any insight would be appreciated.

The early WA_ cases first came out when the 9-inch first came out --1957. The difference in the WA-series 3rd members from the later single vertical rib case, or the N-case, is its casting composition. The early units were primarily made from gray iron. This material is not flexible so when you have a good amount of torque and lots of traction, the differential doesn't deflect --it breaks. The most common failure point of the WA_ casting is in the area where the driving pinion support bolts to the case. This whole area tends to break off.

Starting around 1960, the WA_ cases were replaced by the most common version you see today --the single vertical ribbed case. These commonly are called the C7AW cases. http://www.ultrastang.com/Images/Scanned/Rears/06-s.jpg
It isn't a nodular case like the N-case, but the C7AW does have a degree of nodular iron in its casting which makes it a very strong 3rd member.

fasttback · Jan 15, 2008

ultrastang said:
The early WA_ cases first came out when the 9-inch first came out --1957. The difference in the WA-series 3rd members from the later single vertical rib case, or the N-case, is its casting composition. The early units were primarily made from gray iron. This material is not flexible so when you have a good amount of torque and lots of traction, the differential doesn't deflect --it breaks. The most common failure point of the WA_ casting is in the area where the driving pinion support bolts to the case. This whole area tends to break off.

Starting around 1960, the WA_ cases were replaced by the most common version you see today --the single vertical ribbed case. These commonly are called the C7AW cases. http://www.ultrastang.com/Images/Scanned/Rears/06-s.jpg
It isn't a nodular case like the N-case, but the C7AW does have a degree of nodular iron in its casting which makes it a very strong 3rd member.

Just what I was looking for...thanks Ultrastang!!!

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