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- Thread starter Shuttleman83
- Start date
stormsedge
5 Year Member
Here is a photo showing the relationship of the ball joint and strut...until you get under there, you'll not know for sure.
Arrow is at the ball joint...the strut is the tube in the upper center of the picture. (Credit AM).
Arrow is at the ball joint...the strut is the tube in the upper center of the picture. (Credit AM).
stormsedge
5 Year Member
Sorry, I neglected answering your questions---
"That would pull down the fender / tire rod?" The ones I've seen had the wheel/tire way up in the fender well.
"And do you think everything else would be ok?" That really depends on which part broke, the stresses on the suspension when it gave way, and how quickly you were able to get stopped.
"And would that give the impression about the strut?" When you look at the photo, you can see that if the strut or balljoint were to give way, the car would end up in about the same state...that said, I'm with Ragged GT and suspect you'll find the ball joint is the problem.
"That would pull down the fender / tire rod?" The ones I've seen had the wheel/tire way up in the fender well.
"And do you think everything else would be ok?" That really depends on which part broke, the stresses on the suspension when it gave way, and how quickly you were able to get stopped.
"And would that give the impression about the strut?" When you look at the photo, you can see that if the strut or balljoint were to give way, the car would end up in about the same state...that said, I'm with Ragged GT and suspect you'll find the ball joint is the problem.
Just looked at it better in light. Feels like strut is tucked up inside housing, would that seem accurate? Looks like ball joint and or boot is ripped out, wheel is off and slightly bent inward. Tie rod end looks intact from what I can see, control arm is lower and spring is off a bit because of this. What do you think this will cost if I buy parts and someone does this? And ball joints should be done in pairs right? I'm not looking to spend too much, just keep her going. Has a good amount of miles on it.
IMO the best thing you can do is get the car jacked up and remove the wheel. Take a few pictures at different angles.
Got a close look with flashlight tonight. Summary:
Lower front ball joint torn out of lower control arm, ripped rubber boot is still in control arm from what I see. Rack seems fine, didn't get a fine look at tie rod end seems fine from what I see, basically even though it's hanging a bit the control arm and tie rod piece to rack look like the other front side, just obviously not connected well.
Front end sway bar link seems intact and actually still connected, just missing lower bushing (was like this days before - I posted about it days ago)
Strut seems straight and fine? I'm not sure how I could tell if it wasn't but it seems as it should be? Coil spring seems fine and not broken from what I can see, just off centered a bit and not fully seated.
So does this just seem like a 2 x lower ball joint deal or would it need control arms too? The control arm to me looks the same, but it's obviously not connected to the wheel right at the moment so can't tell 100%. So I guess two front lower ball joints since do them in pairs (in case other side starts to go)?
Any idea on pricing roughyly? Don't want to spend a ton here, car is getting up there in age. Just want it safe. P.S I know I need a front end alignment if this gets done.
Lower front ball joint torn out of lower control arm, ripped rubber boot is still in control arm from what I see. Rack seems fine, didn't get a fine look at tie rod end seems fine from what I see, basically even though it's hanging a bit the control arm and tie rod piece to rack look like the other front side, just obviously not connected well.
Front end sway bar link seems intact and actually still connected, just missing lower bushing (was like this days before - I posted about it days ago)
Strut seems straight and fine? I'm not sure how I could tell if it wasn't but it seems as it should be? Coil spring seems fine and not broken from what I can see, just off centered a bit and not fully seated.
So does this just seem like a 2 x lower ball joint deal or would it need control arms too? The control arm to me looks the same, but it's obviously not connected to the wheel right at the moment so can't tell 100%. So I guess two front lower ball joints since do them in pairs (in case other side starts to go)?
Any idea on pricing roughyly? Don't want to spend a ton here, car is getting up there in age. Just want it safe. P.S I know I need a front end alignment if this gets done.
If the ball joint is that bad yes change both of them. You'll want to consider changing the tie rod ends. You probably want to inspect all of the suspension components. I have to add one more thing...
stormsedge
5 Year Member
Consider replacing the lower control arms in order to get new ball joints and new lower bushings without the associated labor of replacing them in the old arms. They are $75-90 each new (and worth the price IMO). Cheers!
That’s the tiered end, the ballpoint is behind thatHere is a photo showing the relationship of the ball joint and strut...until you get under there, you'll not know for sure.
Arrow is at the ball joint...the strut is the tube in the upper center of the picture. (Credit AM).
stormsedge
5 Year Member
Yup, you're right...that's what I get for hurrying and using someone else's picture.
