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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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Electrical 92 mustang no start, fuel pump running

  • Thread starter Thread starter Blarg
  • Start date Start date Jun 18, 2018

What should be done?

  • Continue on and fix the car

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • The car is cursed

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  • Roll it out to the street and set it on fire

    Votes: 1 100.0%

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Blown88GT

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1999
2,283
524
164
Palm Beach Gardens, FL
Aug 7, 2018
#21
  • Aug 7, 2018
  • #21
Transplanting harness & electronics from one year to another is difficult if not impossible due to Ford changing things, even within the same year. Almost better to purchase a new harness, rip out the old, & start over. At least, you're starting over with brand new wire & connectors. LMR has everything.
https://lmr.com/item/CAS-5500/mustang-classic-dash-gauge-harness-87-89
 
B

Blarg

Member
Jun 18, 2018
31
0
6
Anoka
Aug 7, 2018
#22
  • Aug 7, 2018
  • #22
The plugs between the engine harness and at the end of the dash (next to ecu) match. I just have to fix the butcher damage. Now if I could buy the whole dang dash harness for 170$ I would but that's for the gauges. I hate wiring!
 
B

Blarg

Member
Jun 18, 2018
31
0
6
Anoka
Oct 20, 2018
#23
  • Oct 20, 2018
  • #23
I sent the computer out and it needed repair. The repair has stopped the fuel pump from constantly running but that's really about the only change I've seen.

Fuel pump primes for 2 seconds and shuts off like its supposed to now. I jumped the diagnostic port and got the fuel pump running constantly and the tire gauge shows 40 psi at the shrader valve. I can hear a hiss at the back of the intake but I see no leaks. I pulled the vacuum line off of the FPR and noticed no leaks.

Today I threw a new distributor cap and rotor, coil and ignition switch at it.

Shows a nice spark from the ignition coil to the wire when jumping the starter relay.

Fuel pump does kick on and off when rotating the distributor.

Tried starting it normal, spout out, peddle 1/4 down and just got pops from the exhaust and some from maybe the intake.

Got codes 81, 82 , 84 and 85 and finally 11. I did get a 95 but it didn't come back.

I hate to say this now but I've never had the alternator installed why trying to get this running.

This year has been really rough one but I've made it out. This car however is a different story!

Any suggestions?
 
B

Blarg

Member
Jun 18, 2018
31
0
6
Anoka
Oct 21, 2018
#24
  • Oct 21, 2018
  • #24
I restabbed the dist approx 180 off from where I had it and timed it to a jumpy 10 dftdc. It's 330 am and it just came to me to check the obvious possible misses. I'll be re-restabbing it tomorrow as the garage is full of carbon monoxide and its loud as hell (longtubes and 2 chamber dumps). I am happy but it runs like e and doesn't want to rev!
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
27,929
10,573
203
polk county florida
Oct 21, 2018
#25
  • Oct 21, 2018
  • #25
Get back to the basics. Check tdc at the piston and balancer, see where your rotor points. Check firing order. Pull the spout and it should start. Set timing. Run it up to operating temp, check timing again. Install spout and go
 
B

Blarg

Member
Jun 18, 2018
31
0
6
Anoka
Oct 21, 2018
#26
  • Oct 21, 2018
  • #26
Done deal. Runs great for now. Onto installing cooling, alternator, and putting the interior back in. So much to do, no hurry to do it. Just glad its finally running.
 
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