94/95 A/C into Fox Swap??
- Thread starter Adams91LX
- Start date
You'll have to run the 94-95 accessories, or the compressor pulley won't line up. I think the 94-95 accessories are like 3 inches shorter than the Fox stuff.
bump bump bump...
will i need the timing cover too? I have the PS pump, A/C compressor/lines/accumulator, 3g Alternator, Water pump, idler pulley, belt tensioner, crank pulley... What else am I missing... what else should I do when I'm in there?
Can I still run my fan, or will I need to swap an electric fan... any opinions...
Looking to tackle the swap before it gets stupid hot.. Houston :/
will i need the timing cover too? I have the PS pump, A/C compressor/lines/accumulator, 3g Alternator, Water pump, idler pulley, belt tensioner, crank pulley... What else am I missing... what else should I do when I'm in there?
Can I still run my fan, or will I need to swap an electric fan... any opinions...
Looking to tackle the swap before it gets stupid hot.. Houston :/
why not go with the 5.0 a\c stuff instead of spending the same amount or more to make something work on it ??
ratio411
Founding Member
The 94-95 accessory drive is cool.
My guess is you could get it to work so long as you have all the parts and don't try to hybrid them with Fox parts (at least in the engine bay).
This drive set is nice for several reasons.
The water pump and timing cover are cleaner and more compact.
The A/C is hidden under the engine, which makes a cleaner looking bay.
It's a natural for a 3G, even though that isn't too hard to begin with.
BEST OF ALL, it is modular enough to mount to a 351-w without any adapters or mods!
My guess is you could get it to work so long as you have all the parts and don't try to hybrid them with Fox parts (at least in the engine bay).
This drive set is nice for several reasons.
The water pump and timing cover are cleaner and more compact.
The A/C is hidden under the engine, which makes a cleaner looking bay.
It's a natural for a 3G, even though that isn't too hard to begin with.
BEST OF ALL, it is modular enough to mount to a 351-w without any adapters or mods!
95Vert383AOD
15 Year Member
94/95 pullies sit about 1" further back. The swap you suggest would require the water pump, both brackets, pump, and balancer. You may also need to notch the battery tray for the PS pump.
The 94-95 mustangs has less space between the radiator support and the fire wall. Ford designed the accessories to be farther apart and pushed further back.
The 94-95 mustangs has less space between the radiator support and the fire wall. Ford designed the accessories to be farther apart and pushed further back.
ratio411
Founding Member
You don't need to change the balancer.
The offset in the pulleys is taken up in the crank pulley, not the balancer.
The battery tray will be fine with a 302, but could need mods (or battery relocation) with 351.
The timing cover will be needed from a 94-95, along with the water pump.
This info comes from my trial and error of 4 years of working on a Fox and 94 SN-95 simultaniously, and attempts at parts swapping between them.
The offset in the pulleys is taken up in the crank pulley, not the balancer.
The battery tray will be fine with a 302, but could need mods (or battery relocation) with 351.
The timing cover will be needed from a 94-95, along with the water pump.
This info comes from my trial and error of 4 years of working on a Fox and 94 SN-95 simultaniously, and attempts at parts swapping between them.
ratio411
Founding Member
That's an interesting tid-bit.
I'll have to check that out.
They look the same in compartment depth...
I thought the changes were made to accomodate the lower hood, similar to the 89-98 T-Birds.
95Vert383AOD
15 Year Member
I thought so too until i tried using fox brackets and realized there was less room up front between the water pump and radiator.
If you have nothing, just do a R-12 install. The cost is NOT that much more if you need to get everything new anyway.
Can of R-134a is $15 or so. Can of R-12 is $25-30/shipped off Ebay. So for an extra $30-35 in cost, you can use the correct refrigerant and not worry about retrofit issues.
That may be true, but without the proper EPA certification, R12 is unobtainium. I recall you mentioned having taken the test a while back, but not everyone has the cert necessary, myself, and probably most of the present company included. Going 134a is the way to go, if starting with all new parts.
True but the test was $20 and I found it fairly easy. Perhaps others might struggle with it?
But, of the dozen or so cans I've bought on eBay...only 1 guy wanted to see the cert.
Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk
But, of the dozen or so cans I've bought on eBay...only 1 guy wanted to see the cert.
Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk
I have my EPA 609 cert, that isn't a problem. I will also be able to carry my accessories over with me when I swap a 351.
I have all the parts necessary, other than the e-fan, and controller... I also need to remote mount the tfi, or trim some material off the tensioner.
I have all the parts necessary, other than the e-fan, and controller... I also need to remote mount the tfi, or trim some material off the tensioner.
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