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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

94/95 A/C into Fox Swap??

  • Thread starter Thread starter Adams91LX
  • Start date Start date Mar 27, 2012

Adams91LX

Active Member
Dec 9, 2003
689
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Plano, TX
Mar 27, 2012
#1
  • Mar 27, 2012
  • #1
Any ideas if you could swap parts from SN95 into a fox?

I found a really cheap setup complete, figure it may be worth a shot??

Thanks for the help!
-Adam
 

stykthyn

I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.
15 Year Member
Jul 6, 2006
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gainesville
Mar 27, 2012
#2
  • Mar 27, 2012
  • #2
I want to say no, but perhaps if you could mount the compressor and run custom lines ....
 

Adams91LX

Active Member
Dec 9, 2003
689
12
29
Plano, TX
Mar 27, 2012
#3
  • Mar 27, 2012
  • #3
I think I will give it a shot, it's pretty cheap for an entire setup. I might be able to run the entire front accessories..
 

BlownFiveLiter

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
3,133
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108
Chicagoland
Mar 27, 2012
#4
  • Mar 27, 2012
  • #4
You'll have to run the 94-95 accessories, or the compressor pulley won't line up. I think the 94-95 accessories are like 3 inches shorter than the Fox stuff.
 
Reactions: 95Vert383AOD

LarsD

Founding Member
Jul 2, 2002
2,680
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Texas
Mar 28, 2012
#5
  • Mar 28, 2012
  • #5
Water pump is different also on the 94-95's iirc.
 

Adams91LX

Active Member
Dec 9, 2003
689
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29
Plano, TX
May 22, 2012
#6
  • May 22, 2012
  • #6
bump bump bump...

will i need the timing cover too? I have the PS pump, A/C compressor/lines/accumulator, 3g Alternator, Water pump, idler pulley, belt tensioner, crank pulley... What else am I missing... what else should I do when I'm in there?

Can I still run my fan, or will I need to swap an electric fan... any opinions...

Looking to tackle the swap before it gets stupid hot.. Houston :/
 

S&B

I hate my CT. :(
10 Year Member
Dec 18, 2005
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Cheesehead
May 22, 2012
#7
  • May 22, 2012
  • #7
why not go with the 5.0 a\c stuff instead of spending the same amount or more to make something work on it ??
 

Adams91LX

Active Member
Dec 9, 2003
689
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29
Plano, TX
May 22, 2012
#8
  • May 22, 2012
  • #8
Stock component swap to R134, a new water pump.. And it will actually come out cheaper than the 5.0 A/C kit.

I also began with nothing, no A/C at all.. no condenser, lines, anything..
 

ratio411

Founding Member
Apr 21, 2002
3,870
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Pensacola FL
May 22, 2012
#9
  • May 22, 2012
  • #9
The 94-95 accessory drive is cool.
My guess is you could get it to work so long as you have all the parts and don't try to hybrid them with Fox parts (at least in the engine bay).

This drive set is nice for several reasons.
The water pump and timing cover are cleaner and more compact.
The A/C is hidden under the engine, which makes a cleaner looking bay.
It's a natural for a 3G, even though that isn't too hard to begin with.
BEST OF ALL, it is modular enough to mount to a 351-w without any adapters or mods!
 

95Vert383AOD

15 Year Member
Jun 10, 2008
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New Bedford, MA
May 23, 2012
#10
  • May 23, 2012
  • #10
94/95 pullies sit about 1" further back. The swap you suggest would require the water pump, both brackets, pump, and balancer. You may also need to notch the battery tray for the PS pump.

The 94-95 mustangs has less space between the radiator support and the fire wall. Ford designed the accessories to be farther apart and pushed further back.
 

ratio411

Founding Member
Apr 21, 2002
3,870
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Pensacola FL
May 23, 2012
#11
  • May 23, 2012
  • #11
You don't need to change the balancer.
The offset in the pulleys is taken up in the crank pulley, not the balancer.

The battery tray will be fine with a 302, but could need mods (or battery relocation) with 351.

The timing cover will be needed from a 94-95, along with the water pump.

This info comes from my trial and error of 4 years of working on a Fox and 94 SN-95 simultaniously, and attempts at parts swapping between them.
 

ratio411

Founding Member
Apr 21, 2002
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May 23, 2012
#12
  • May 23, 2012
  • #12
95Vert383AOD said:
The 94-95 mustangs has less space between the radiator support and the fire wall. Ford designed the accessories to be farther apart and pushed further back.
Click to expand...
That's an interesting tid-bit.
I'll have to check that out.
They look the same in compartment depth...
I thought the changes were made to accomodate the lower hood, similar to the 89-98 T-Birds.
 

95Vert383AOD

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May 23, 2012
#13
  • May 23, 2012
  • #13
ratio411 said:
That's an interesting tid-bit.
I'll have to check that out.
They look the same in compartment depth...
I thought the changes were made to accomodate the lower hood, similar to the 89-98 T-Birds.
Click to expand...

I thought so too until i tried using fox brackets and realized there was less room up front between the water pump and radiator.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,237
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224
Massachusetts
May 29, 2012
#14
  • May 29, 2012
  • #14
Adams91LX said:
Stock component swap to R134, a new water pump.. And it will actually come out cheaper than the 5.0 A/C kit.

I also began with nothing, no A/C at all.. no condenser, lines, anything..
Click to expand...

If you have nothing, just do a R-12 install. The cost is NOT that much more if you need to get everything new anyway.

Can of R-134a is $15 or so. Can of R-12 is $25-30/shipped off Ebay. So for an extra $30-35 in cost, you can use the correct refrigerant and not worry about retrofit issues.
 

BlownFiveLiter

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
3,133
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108
Chicagoland
May 29, 2012
#15
  • May 29, 2012
  • #15
Mustang5L5 said:
If you have nothing, just do a R-12 install. The cost is NOT that much more if you need to get everything new anyway.

Can of R-134a is $15 or so. Can of R-12 is $25-30/shipped off Ebay. So for an extra $30-35 in cost, you can use the correct refrigerant and not worry about retrofit issues.
Click to expand...
That may be true, but without the proper EPA certification, R12 is unobtainium. I recall you mentioned having taken the test a while back, but not everyone has the cert necessary, myself, and probably most of the present company included. Going 134a is the way to go, if starting with all new parts.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,237
17,922
224
Massachusetts
May 30, 2012
#16
  • May 30, 2012
  • #16
True but the test was $20 and I found it fairly easy. Perhaps others might struggle with it?

But, of the dozen or so cans I've bought on eBay...only 1 guy wanted to see the cert.


Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk
 

Adams91LX

Active Member
Dec 9, 2003
689
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29
Plano, TX
May 30, 2012
#17
  • May 30, 2012
  • #17
I have my EPA 609 cert, that isn't a problem. I will also be able to carry my accessories over with me when I swap a 351.

I have all the parts necessary, other than the e-fan, and controller... I also need to remote mount the tfi, or trim some material off the tensioner.
 
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