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94 gt idle problems?

  • Thread starter Thread starter svtdrop
  • Start date Start date Jun 12, 2008
S

svtdrop

New Member
Mar 25, 2008
59
0
0
san francisco, CA
Jun 12, 2008
#1
  • Jun 12, 2008
  • #1
i just changed my motor from a stock 302 to a ford racing GT40 long block with e cam. my car idles perfect when code, but once car is warm, car starts to surge and eventually dies out. i do have a code for the fuel pump primary circuit failure, not sure what dtc# it is, forgot. i wa wondering if i replace the multi function relay box in front of radiator, would that fix my idle problem. i had the same problem with the stock engine, but it got worse with the cam.... please and help would be appreciated......... :SNSign:
 

Black95GTS

Active Member
Jan 8, 2004
1,644
3
38
Marlborough, MA
Jun 13, 2008
#2
  • Jun 13, 2008
  • #2
You have to tune your car. E-cams are notorious for crappy idle with the stock tune.

The fuel pump issue needs to be resolved, but you'd have to tune your car anyway. Either do it yourself via a TwEECer or PMS, or get a shop to do it.

Adam
 
S

svtdrop

New Member
Mar 25, 2008
59
0
0
san francisco, CA
Jun 13, 2008
#3
  • Jun 13, 2008
  • #3
but the idle was still surging with a stock motor.....
 

Stanger007

Founding Member
Sep 26, 2001
2,015
2
46
Baton Rouge, LA
Jun 15, 2008
#4
  • Jun 15, 2008
  • #4
Fix your codes first.

Check that the TPS is between 1.2v and .8v and that the voltage goes up smoothly as you open the throttle.

Set the ISC and TB to factory settings. (~2 turns out from bottom on ISC, 0.010" gap on TB screw then IN one full turn).

Make sure the ISC is clean. Possibly swap with a known good ISC.

Make sure the MAF is clean.

e cams require tuning to idle properly at a low idle speed. You can cheat it by opening up the throttle blade, don't open it so far as to put the TPS voltage over 1.2v however.

Wes
 

greenlantern

Member
Jul 11, 2004
265
1
17
St Louis Mo
Jun 27, 2008
#5
  • Jun 27, 2008
  • #5
Follow Stanger007's instructions. The only thing I would like to add is to make sure when you reset your idle make sure the car engine is hot. It really can make the difference is getting your idle to drop.
 

R.J.

Member
Aug 20, 2003
813
0
16
Warwick, Rhode Island
Jun 29, 2008
#6
  • Jun 29, 2008
  • #6
+1 for TPS voltage, my buddy's car had the same issues after a Trick flow HCI and it was TPS voltage. Try this to fix it and the idle: (It work for him)

Begin with a cold vehicle. The idea here is to get the car to a firm cold idle with enough air bleed capacity left in the idle circuit for IAC adjustment.

The idle stop should be set first. Back out the idle stop screw, away from the bell crank arm, until about 1/2 turn past the point where it no longer makes contact (blade fully closed). Using a 0.010" feeler gauge, tighten until gauge just drags between screw and bell crank arm. Remove feeler gauge. Tighten screw exactly 1 1/2 turns. If the screw is very loose, put a drop of loc-tite or silicone on it, so it doesn't work out of adjustment.

Now remove the connector to the Idle Air Controller (IAC) just on the other side of the throttle body. Start the car and allow vehicle to warm for 2 minutes. Give a small "blip" to let it settle. If it is having a hard time staying running you may have to get an assistant until you can get to the front of the car. Now open or close the air bleed screw (CCW opens) next to the IAC until the car idles at 575 to 600 rpm. For guys with aftermarket cams and an EEC tuner, you might want to idle a bit more briskly, say 650 to 675.

Obviously, this rpm range is by what the car and driver wants...IE, no set idle speed, whatever works for YOU.

Turn off the car. Now count the number of turns clockwise to close on the idle air bleed screw. If it falls between 1/2 and 2, it's okay, now reverse it out the same number of turns. Log the number somewhere in case you need it for the future. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.

If the air bleed screw is above 2 turns, it's a good idea to tighten the idle stop screw another 1/2 turn, and then repeat the idle setting. If it is below 1/2 turn, then loosen the idle stop screw by 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, and repeat the idle setting. Be sure to put another drop of silicone RTV on the stop screw if it was disturbed. Reconnect the IAC.

Now remember we adjusted the set screw on the throttle body. That means that the voltage reading from the TPS sensor has changed. It should read between .96 and .99 volts. Anything outside of that range will cause all sorts of issues including misfires and rough idle.

you will have to back probe the TPS connector. With the connector attached to the TPS stick a paper clip into the rubber boot on the connector where the top and middle wires go into the connector. The rubber is very flexible the paper clip will slide in between the rubber and the wire.

Set your multimeter to volts. Turn ignition to ON. Then place your multimeter leads on the metal pins. If it comes up as a negative that is okay as long as you are -.96 to -.99. If you get this reading then great you are done and hopefully your issues are gone. If not proceed to step 9

This is where and extra pair of hands come in handy. Using a large screw driver you will need to loosen the bolts that hold the TPS. DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER THAT IS TOO SMALL BECAUSE YOU WILL STRIP THE BOLTS. They probably will be really tight so you have to really lean on the screwdriver and use some finesse.

Once the bolts are loose you will need to move the TPS up or down and continue to read the voltage. Once you get it to the desired setting you can retighten the bolts. What I do is I find .97 and then as carefully as possible I tighten the TPS down. what will happen is the voltage will change usually to .96 or .98 but that it okay. Once you are done with this manually open the throttle body a few times and close it then reread the voltage and make sure it is still within our desired range.

Depending upon how loose your set screw was you might want to cover it in RTV to hold your setting. At this point you have CORRECTLY reset you idle.
 
S

sl03gt

20+ Year Stangneter
Sep 29, 2003
182
1
18
Jun 29, 2008
#7
  • Jun 29, 2008
  • #7
vacuum issue? Are the injectors new? Check fuel pressure and vacuum readings. These sn 95's don't like a tight lobe seperation on the cam. Once your car hits closed loop the computer kicks on the o2 sensors and starts trying to control the idle. Check fuel, spark, vacuum and then get a chip or pro tune.
 
S

svtdrop

New Member
Mar 25, 2008
59
0
0
san francisco, CA
Jun 30, 2008
#8
  • Jun 30, 2008
  • #8
i've been trying to adjust the tps but im running the stock throttle body and can not be adjusted. i also replaced the fuel pump relay(the computer module in front of radiator), and my code still came back.i closely checked all my vaccum lines and all seem to be ok. my injectors are new (30lb). i also have code 334 for egr position sensor. will that cause the idle surge? i was told to remove the iac valve and clean all the carbon with carb cleaner, i will try tomorrow.... i know i need to tune but im trying to fix all the issues i have with my car. i noticed when i disconnect the battery and all the codes clear, i start car and car runs perfect, no idle issue. i drive around for a while and is ok, i checked for codes and i still have 334(egr position sensor), but car is idleing perfect, then i drive around some more then it starts to act up again, then i check for codes and i get the fuel pump primary relay circuit failure........ i've alread changed the computer module in front of radiator but i still got the same code
will my temp sensor cause the car to surge.............
 
T

tstang21

Member
Apr 14, 2008
219
0
16
Jun 30, 2008
#9
  • Jun 30, 2008
  • #9
try to check fuel filter. i know its lame but give it a shot
with cleaning the IAC, try that as well. i did this on my 4 banger and it idled better by just cleaning it.
 
S

svtdrop

New Member
Mar 25, 2008
59
0
0
san francisco, CA
Jul 1, 2008
#10
  • Jul 1, 2008
  • #10
i already changes the fuel filter. i cleaned the iac valve today and it made a huge difference on my idle. but it still dies out. now i have a new code which is
#137(HEGO shows system always rich(left)..
im going to replaced my o2 sensor tomorrow and see if that corrects the issue and hopefully it will.
but i also have 2 codes that just poped up
311 and 314(thermactor air system inoperative).
i checked all vaccum lines anr are ok. i even swaped vaccum pump's with a spare and code still came on.
i am having a real headache with this car but i intend on fixing my issues...
 
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