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95 svt rear caliper rebuild or replace?

  • Thread starter Thread starter pk89 5.0
  • Start date Start date Jan 6, 2009
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pk89 5.0

New Member
Nov 2, 2007
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Jan 6, 2009
#1
  • Jan 6, 2009
  • #1
hey guys, I just took my car in for a brake and suspension inspection because I couldn't find out what was chirping in my rear brakes. The shop gave me an estimate for a set of inner tie rod ends and one rear caliper for $625. that seams extremely steep to me and I'm planning on doing it myself instead.
My question is could I rebuild my rear caliper instead of buying a new one? And other than the tool required to compress the rear brake pistons are there any other special Tools I will need?
I looked up rear calipers and I don't understand why but the rear right caliper is $40 more than the left? Is there any reason for that? I'm just curious because that is the one I have to replace.
Also I was planning on changing the tie rod ends by myself and having an alignment after. This doesn't seem like too hard of a job am I right?

I doubt anyone will remember but I made some posts when I first got this car a couple months ago and posted a thread and never went back to respond, I personally hate when people do that and wanted to say sorry, I was without a computer for a while and forgot about it.
 
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pk89 5.0

New Member
Nov 2, 2007
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Jan 7, 2009
#2
  • Jan 7, 2009
  • #2
I'm in the middle of it now and I got the inner separated from the outer tie rod but I can't find out how to get off the inner tie rod from the steering shaft. is there a set screw or something? I don't want to force it and break something.

thanks in advance
 
C

cbarr300

Member
Jun 6, 2006
746
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goose creek, SC
Jan 7, 2009
#3
  • Jan 7, 2009
  • #3
huh?

if you're doing outer tie-rod ends all you do is take it off the knuckle (the part that has the big nut with a pin through it). After you do that you can move it out the way. There's a jam nut on the end of the tie-rod end. Break that nut loose and stop RIGHT after it gets broke loose. Don't let that jam nut move. Now unscrew the tie-rod end and screw the new on one to the jam nut and tighten up the jam nut. Then attach the other end back to the steering knucke.

You shouldn't need to do anything with the steering shaft...unless you mistakingly called the steering rack the steering shaft...in which case is completely cool.

If you need help getting the knuckle side of the tie rod end off...grab a hammer. Don't hit from the top of the stud down...hit it on the side. Just give it a solid rap with the hammer and it should come loose. They can be stubborn.....or you could just get the proper tool.

Good luck
 

94GTCoupe

10 Year Member
May 7, 2006
1,412
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CA
Jan 8, 2009
#4
  • Jan 8, 2009
  • #4
i think he trying to seperate the INNER tie rod from the steering rack.
looking at the Chiltons book,there apperes to be a spiral pin that goes through the "nut" that attaches the inner tie rod to the rack assembly.

the book shows there is a pin on both the passanger side and driver side inner tie rods.

heres a link to the section from the chiltons book.
good luck.

-it would be a good idea to get both the Chiltons and Haynes repair books,if you dont already have them,they come in handy

AutoZone.com | Vehicle Selection - Year
 
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pk89 5.0

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Nov 2, 2007
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Jan 8, 2009
#5
  • Jan 8, 2009
  • #5
I finished already.

the only problems I had were that I somehow got 2 different tie rod ends and one of them didn't come with the set screw and I called a shop and they said just use lock tight and I should be good.
 

94GTCoupe

10 Year Member
May 7, 2006
1,412
92
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Jan 8, 2009
#6
  • Jan 8, 2009
  • #6

hope that loc tite holds
 
C

cbarr300

Member
Jun 6, 2006
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goose creek, SC
Jan 8, 2009
#7
  • Jan 8, 2009
  • #7
For the sake of doing things professionally and for piece of mind, just go up to where you got your parts and tell them it didn't come with it.
 
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pk89 5.0

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Nov 2, 2007
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Jan 8, 2009
#8
  • Jan 8, 2009
  • #8
the holes for the set screws weren't even threaded. do you really think it will make that big of a difference?
 
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