96 GT Starting/Running issues

I have a 96 GT 5-Speed which is basically stock. It has the following add-ons and features:

• PATS w/ keyless entry
• BBK CAI
• Accel Coilpacks
• BBK Off-Road mid pipes
• Steeda MIL eliminators
• Flowmaster turn down exhaust
• King Cobra clutch kit

I have three issues going on with my car, and I have spent the last month racking my brain and emptying my pocketbook trying to resolve them without any luck. Hopefully someone here may have run into the same issues and can help.

Problem #1

I have an issue with trying to get the car to start after sitting unused for more than 24 hours. It can take up to 10 minutes before I can finally get the car to fire off and run. After that, it starts without any problems, and continues that way as long as it is started at least once within 24 hours.

I have changed the fuel filter and the fuel pressure regulator and checked the initial fuel pressure (After sitting more than 24 hours), and it checks out OK. Also, it stays constant during startup and while running. Also, while working with Problem #2, I changed out the IAC and TPS with no effect on the issue.

I have connected my laptop to the car using Proscan 5.0, and can only see that the right bank was registering that it was running rich. Because of this, I would occasionally get a misfire on at least one cylinder on the right bank. I then replaced the original coilpacks with Accel coil packs and replaced the plugs with Motorcraft Platinums. The plug wires tested out fine, and were fairly new when I bought the car. The car idled a little smoother after that, but the problems did not go away and there was no change on the scan.

I have also checked all of the grounds under the hood, and all are good.

Problem #2

Along with Problem #1, I have an issue when attempting to get up to speed. If I hammer down on the throttle or give it a little more throttle to get up to highway speed, it acts as if it is running in "limp" mode. It is very hesitant to get up to speed, and sounds almost as if it is hetting a rev limiter at full throttle and low RPMS. At very light acceleration, it will come up to speed fine but when you go over an overpass, it has a problem.

Problem #3

The battery on the car dies after sitting for more than 48 hours. There is no radio in the car, and I even removed all of the bulbs from the car to ensure that nothing could drain it. The battery is brand new, and has been tested good. Also, with a jump start, the system comes back and will start up and run. The alternator is obviously working because after running the car for 5-10 minutes it will start back up without needing a jump start. The charge also lasts overnight, and the car will start back up in the morning. The only thing that is active on the car is the anti-theft overnight.

I have a sneaking suspicion that all three of these problems are related, but I can't put my finger on what is causing any of these issues and my pocketbook is running out of ideas as well. I am getting frustrated wasting good money on troubleshooting this problem when it could be better spent modding the car.

Please help me Obi Wan....You are my only hope!

Thanks in advance!

--Brian

Can you post a pic of where you found this wire?

I will try to search around it this afternoon for it if the weather holds up.

Is there anyone else who may have ideas on these issues?

I never turn the engine over for more than 6 seconds, and then turn it off (To prevent burning out the starter solenoid and also excessively draining the battery). So, technically I do cycle the key. I typically turn the key on, and wait a few seconds before starting the car (Because of the PATS system).

I know for sure that the injector ground is connected and OK.

The fuel pressure was 38 PSIG, and hold that when initialized and while running. And yes, I use a mechanical gauge on the schraeder valve located on the fuel rail on the left bank at the front of the car.

Yeah, I have ProScan, and it does datalogging.

I will check the FP again when I get home, to make sure I gave the correct gauge reading.

UPDATE:

I changed out the MAF with a new one, and the starting problem seems to be better. It took less than a minute to start (From being dead for several days) and the throttle response was much better.

However, under load it still is a dog. This time, it backfired under WOT which leads to a timing or PCM issue.....

Any ideas?

http://www.stangnet.com/images/stories/docs/sn95_TSBs/98-23-10.pdf

This is why I changed out the MAF, and this did get rid of my rich condition. The inside of the MAF looked like it had been bathed in goo, so it was obviously fouled. Plus, one of the terminals on it had some corrosion, and it was just a helluvalot easier to buy a new one than attempt to clean it up.

I did not have time yet to check the FP today, but I will verify it tomorrow after work.

OK.

Downloaded a freebie application and was able to see that I DO have a bad O2 sensor. It is the reason why my system in in "Closed Loop" status, basically putting it in limp mode. For some reason the ProScan software did not report that issue.....

The sensor that is being reported bad is Bank 1, Sensor 2.

Does anyone know which one this is?