99 GT still missing......

water in youre distributor?

Distributor huh?

You can pop the injectors out individually, just make sure you use a compressor to blow all of the crap around the base of them away. You don't want anything to get down in there. I took mine out, and hooked them up to a 6 volt lantern battery, and pumped some acetone through them. At least 3 of them were just kind of barely squirting. Now they fire like brand new.

Do you have a performance chip in, or possibly a tune? I know they can cause some issues sometimes. Also, do you have a K&N filter? Mine was idling rough once, because the filter oil got on the sensor in the MAF. I cleaned it up real good, and the car ran like a champ.

I had a similar problem on my 99gt. Check this:
water or coolant around spark plugs. Remember NEVER wash down the engine
I had coolant coming out of the intake manifold gasket. Just barley, not enough to drip on the ground, but enough to make moisture in 2 plug holes.

if you EVER had water in a plug hole, you probably killed a coil or 2.

You can narrow your problem by doing the following. This will tell you where the problem is, and if it is spark, or fuel related.

1. Get your car in a state where it is misfiring. It must be misfiring for this test.

2. one at a time, unplug fuel injectors while the motor is idle. The engine should have a noticable lope when you pull each injector. This is GOOD. It means the fuel injector is working. If you get to an injector that DOESN'T cause the engine to lope when disconnected, or causes it to lope less than the others, suspect that cylinder. Do this 2 times each for each cylinder to see if you get the same results. Most likely, this is not a fuel problem.

3. Rev the engine a few times and then let it idle for a minute and make sure it is still misfiring.

4. assure that all injectors are connected properly

5. One at a time, go around and disconnect the plugs from the coils. Again, doing this should cause a noticable lope. If you get to a coil that when it is disconnected, it either doesnt lope, or causes less of a lope that the other cylinders, suspect that cylinder.

Ok, so hopfully now you have narrowed you problem to a specific cylinder(s) For this write-up's sake lets say cylinder #5 is your problem, but your still unsure if it is the coil or injector because during both tests, the engine still loped, just not as much as the other cylinders.

6. swap cylinder #5 coil with a coil from the other side of the engine. (You will need a small 7mm socket and extension to remove the bolt holding the coil down. And the coils will come out without removing the fuel rail.)

7. connect both coils to the wire harness and start the car. It should still misfire. Use the method in step #5 of this write up to see if your misfire followed the coil, or is still happening at cylinder #5.

(If the misfire followed the coil, you have a bad coil. whats worse, is the others are probably on their way out too. Replace them all.)

There is a guy on ebay selling genuine motorcraft coils for dirt cheap. I have them on my car and they work flawlessly. Here is the auction.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/8-OEM-Coil-on-Plug-DG508-Ford-F150-4-6-5-4-6-8-TRITON_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33689QQihZ009QQitemZ190040945028QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW


If the problem stays at cylinder #5, then suspect your injector.

8. Use compressed air to blow dirt off the motor before doing the folowing procedure!!

9. Using a 5/16'' wrench or deep well socket, remove the 2 nust holding both fuel rails down.

10. Remove the intake plumbing. PITA i know, but it is well worth it.

11. Lift gently and evenly on the fuel rail until all 4 injectors are clear of the manifold. It is a Bioch to pull, so just go slow and steady. Repeat on other rail.
(there is no need to releave the fuel pressure, you will still spill fuel, just let it drain on the motor, it will evaporate in a minute)

(And, duh... I know most people don't work on their engine after cruising the interstate for hours, but if you do, please do this when the engine is sorta cool so you don't blow up.)

12. Visually inspect the injector, don't clean it yet even if it is dirty or looks clogged.

13. Switch it with an injector from the other side of the engine.

14. re-install everything and start it up. See if the misfire followed the injector. IF it did, clean or replace the injector. If the misfire is STILL at cylinder #5, then your only possible causes left are:
1. The sparkplug (you said you checked these already)
2. mechanical problem within cylinder #5
3. the connector or wiring to cylinder #5's injector or coil

Hope this helped. IF you follow this without cutting corners, you WILL find your misfire.

Note that a multiple cylinder misfire should be aproched using this same method, just make sure when you go to swap coils and injectors, you are swaping with known working cylinders.

-Steve

mustangkid05 said:

water in youre distributor?

Click to expand...

There may also be a unicorn crapping in your air filter and poking holes in your catalytic converter.

In all seriousness though...I had a misfire at idlebecause some oil from my filter got on my MAF. I cleaned it with a q-tip and some Isopropal (sp??) alchohol. That cleared that right up. You also might check to see if you have any water or oil buildup where your coil-packs are. that could defiently cause a misfire.
If you have access to a scanning device, I would go ahead and scan it. Just because the CEL hasnt been tripped doesnt mean your not throwing a code.

Bad gas.

you have 8 brand new coils sitting around? WOW!

umm... Why arn't they on your car in the first place?
And are they "bramd new" or new as in not as old as the ones you have.

Because The symptom you describe is a spark loss, not fuel.

Injectors dont know load. All they know is "Hey, I'm running low pulse width" or "Hey, I'm running high pulse width" So if an injector was clogged, it would be crappy across the board. It's not like it can unclog when you rev up.

So you could still be losing spark somewhere I think. cracked or old boots will arc too.

Do that long list of crap I wrote up, but for each test, drive the car. Put it in 4th at a low speed and floor it. See which cylinder makes the least amount of difference. That will be your problem one. Then it will get you looking at the right cylinder at least. You can't fix a problem ifyou don't know where to start.
So pull a coil connector, and drive. pull the next, drive....
then do the same with the injectors.
Will take a while. So be patient.

also, I had 2 completely fried coils and NEVER got a code tossed....
Kinda weird.

I agree that it is a spark related issue. Because you described that it happens at low rpm under load it could really only be one of two things. Your coil is taking a ****, or your spark is arching. Like said above check all spark boots, make sure they are good condition and moister free. Also a good check to see if your coils are putting out. Pull each coil out from the head one at a time and stick a screwdriver into the end of the coil. Have a buddy fire up the car and hold the shaft of the screw drive about a half inch to an inch from a engine ground. I know on my car I can get a good solid inch of blue spark from each on my coils. If you can't produce at least a half inch of spark then your coil is taking a ****. It becomes apparent under heavy load when more demand is placed on the coil it's self. just make sure you don't pull the coil out and leave it hangin in mind air with no ground. This maxes out the coil and eventually fries it. So keep it close to an engine ground, then fire up the car, shut it off and replace. GOOD LUCK!

Tou WANT it to run like crap every time. What your looking for is the coil the DOESN"T make it run a lot worse when it is unplugged. Since the bad coil is already misfiring, having it unplugged wont affect the engine as much.

Are they genuine stock coils, or "remanufactured ones"

Check the EGR. Mine was sticking open and would cause a sort of stumble under load around 1800 rpm.

I bet you have a few weak COP's you will need to run a ignition test using a WDS or IDS or some other professional scan tool that can measure duration and KV's

Where are you located? if you are in my area PM me I can fix it for you, because I can see this getting really ugly with a lot of parts getting thrown at it since you don't have the right equipment to diag the car.

Kappa2006 said:

-Tested resistance of MAF signal wire and ground on MAF itself, .01 ohms.

I'm going to follow an alldata maf diag chart tomorrow at work and see what I come up with.

Click to expand...

Bingo...Your signal wire is internaly shorted to ground. Get a new MAF.

Your saying when you tested the MAF, you put one test lead on the signal, and one on the ground wire? Or did you ground to the case of the MAF. I was assuming that you meant grounding to the case, which i couldn't understand because it's a plastic housing. O well, miscommunication is a bitch. Have you tried a DC for the symptoms you are have? If everything checks out it may come down to a PCM.

Well call up your local dealer and see. Maybe there is an extended recall for PCM flashes or something like that.