I have a 99 mustang GT that the radio won't turn off when the key is out also the wipers still work and the power windows even with the key out and doors open. I replaced the switch but did not help! The battery is usually drained if I don't pull the 40amp fuse from under the hood that powers the radio. What could it be?
99 mustang radio and dome light does not shut off?
- Thread starter mclemore102
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Just take the battery cable off everytime you shut off the vehicle 
j/k I'd suspect the engine accessories switch is constantly activated. I'd look in the dashboard and see if you can find a short somewhere.
EDIT: I'd also like to know more about the car... does it have an auto start, did you install any audio equipment, has it been broken into and did someone attempt to steal the car, did you drive through a huge puddle lately, has the car been in an accident etc.... answers to these questions may help narrow down the problem.
j/k I'd suspect the engine accessories switch is constantly activated. I'd look in the dashboard and see if you can find a short somewhere.
EDIT: I'd also like to know more about the car... does it have an auto start, did you install any audio equipment, has it been broken into and did someone attempt to steal the car, did you drive through a huge puddle lately, has the car been in an accident etc.... answers to these questions may help narrow down the problem.
Dude that sucks bad... there's nothing worse than trying to chase down electrical gremlins.
I'd start by removing the cover around the steering wheel and the panel down by the drivers side foot well. Get yourself a meter and measure each of the wires going to the ignition switch. There should be one constant power wire going to the ignition harness. I don't know what color that wire is, but I'm sure someone will chime in soon enough. If you identify other wires that are also hot with the key removed you may be able to isolate where the issue is and back track along that particular wire.
When you say you replaced the switch, which switch are you referring to?
I'd start by removing the cover around the steering wheel and the panel down by the drivers side foot well. Get yourself a meter and measure each of the wires going to the ignition switch. There should be one constant power wire going to the ignition harness. I don't know what color that wire is, but I'm sure someone will chime in soon enough. If you identify other wires that are also hot with the key removed you may be able to isolate where the issue is and back track along that particular wire.
When you say you replaced the switch, which switch are you referring to?
I don't know what to tell you, other than to open up the column and get access below the dashboard and start poking around with a meter until you find the right wire.
I certainly won't claim to know everything and there may be an easier way to go about this, but whenever I've had electrical problems I find that its best and easiest to use a meter so you can isolate which wires are powered. This way you can locate a common location if it's several wires, or perhaps find a pattern that will lead to a resolution. If you choose to identify the draw using a meter, make sure the keys are not in the ignition, the door is shut, headlights are off, etc so you're only locating wires that are powered that shouldn't be. You know?
I certainly won't claim to know everything and there may be an easier way to go about this, but whenever I've had electrical problems I find that its best and easiest to use a meter so you can isolate which wires are powered. This way you can locate a common location if it's several wires, or perhaps find a pattern that will lead to a resolution. If you choose to identify the draw using a meter, make sure the keys are not in the ignition, the door is shut, headlights are off, etc so you're only locating wires that are powered that shouldn't be. You know?
Rusty67
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Be careful to stay away from the ABS fuse.
It sounds similar to a problem my dad had with his Bullitt. I would check the GEM module and see if it is staying awake as I believe the GEM powers or controlls everything you are talking about. Now as to why the dome light stays on, thats wierd. It should only come on when a door is open. You may have a bad door switch or a short keeping the relay of the stuff on but this again points back to something coming off of the GEM.
It sounds similar to a problem my dad had with his Bullitt. I would check the GEM module and see if it is staying awake as I believe the GEM powers or controlls everything you are talking about. Now as to why the dome light stays on, thats wierd. It should only come on when a door is open. You may have a bad door switch or a short keeping the relay of the stuff on but this again points back to something coming off of the GEM.
Okay, two possibilities.
First, the aftermarket stereo was wired hot to an "all time un-switched" power source. That would explain the stereo being on all the time.
Next, you have a "short to steel", not a "short to ground" which will blow a fuse. Short to steel is a short between a power wire and (more than likely) that "all time un-switched" power source. That will leave other circuits hot at all times.
I would check where that ace installer wired up that radio. I'll bet all your problems can be traced to right there where he probably destroyed a wiring harness.
If you need wiring diagrams, let me know.
First, the aftermarket stereo was wired hot to an "all time un-switched" power source. That would explain the stereo being on all the time.
Next, you have a "short to steel", not a "short to ground" which will blow a fuse. Short to steel is a short between a power wire and (more than likely) that "all time un-switched" power source. That will leave other circuits hot at all times.
I would check where that ace installer wired up that radio. I'll bet all your problems can be traced to right there where he probably destroyed a wiring harness.
If you need wiring diagrams, let me know.
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