A/C and MAX A/C

03redfiregt said:
The difference is a/c pulls in outside air and cools it before it goes into the cabin. Max a/c recurculates the air already inside the car. So the air will be colder and it does'nt have to work as hard. :nice:
Damn I never knew that.

I always figured Max a/c used more..since the word Max is in it..
 
That is the reason it sounds louder on Max A/C. Not because it is actually blowing harder, but because it is sucking in air and blowing in out using the same vents.

I ALWAYS use Max A/C.... keeps out the nasty smells from outside.
 
propellerhead said:
MAX A/C also keeps the condenser (or whatever it is called) working. Regular A/C will cycle on and off to maintain your desired temperature. MAX is meant to be used for the first 5-10 minutes until the car cools off a bit. Then switch to A/C.

Wait a minute. If that is the case then it contradicts what others have said before you. That means that MAX A/C is less economical.
 
I was always told that MAX A/C does keep the compresor on 100%. Makes sence, doesn't it? Switching to regular A/C will cycle the compressor as needed (I can feel it.). THAT will probably = more economy.

The only thing I am not too sure of is what position does the car draw in air from outside vs. inside.
 
Max A/C indicates recirculate only. It does not keep the compressor engaged (100% duty cycle). The compressor will still cycle depending upon the conditions. The systems that cycle the compressor do so usually given readings from either a pressure or temperature sensor reading on the low side of the system. If the low side system pressure drops below a certain point, say 25 psi (25 degrees) - estimate, the compressor will cycle off. When the pressure raises above this point the compressor will cycle back on. For this reason, when a system is low on refrigerant the compressor short cycles, because it reaches this cycle off point very quickly when the compressor is engaged.
 
Also, icing usually occurs because of either low system pressure (usually due to low refrigerant level), restrictions in the system that cause a large pressure drop, or low side pressure/temp sensor shorting (which allows the compressor to run at 100 % duty cycle). There are other factors, but this covers some of the major culprits.
 
rickster99 said:
Wait a minute. If that is the case then it contradicts what others have said before you. That means that MAX A/C is less economical.

I always thought MAX was less economical because your compressor is running 100%. It goes full blast no matter how cold it is inside the car. A/C works like the a/c in your house or apartment. When it reaches the desired temperature, it goes into 'idle' mode.

I don't know where you guys got the idea that MAX was more economical.

EDIT: I don't know which was is correct. Maybe today's a/c systems are way different from the ones from the 80s.

*shrug*
 
joeymatt said:
Max A/C indicates recirculate only. It does not keep the compressor engaged (100% duty cycle). The compressor will still cycle depending upon the conditions. The systems that cycle the compressor do so usually given readings from either a pressure or temperature sensor reading on the low side of the system. If the low side system pressure drops below a certain point, say 25 psi (25 degrees) - estimate, the compressor will cycle off. When the pressure raises above this point the compressor will cycle back on. For this reason, when a system is low on refrigerant the compressor short cycles, because it reaches this cycle off point very quickly when the compressor is engaged.

damn, i guess the ford manuals and tech books are wrong
 
One other thing worth mentioning is that when you park your car make sure the system is set to AC. This will still allow air to circulate in the system helping any moisture to evaporate otherwise it gets trapped causing mildew and other nasty stuff to grow in your AC leaving nasty odors in your interior.