A few different questions

91 NytemareGT · Mar 21, 2013

Ok. So Here Goes..I'm Going To Go Bone Yard Shopping For a g3 Alternator After Reading Some Of The Forums Here. What Wires Do I Need To Grab With The Alt To Put In My 91Gt? The Stock Generator Just Ain't Cutting It. I Have Electric Fans, MSD 6Al Ignition Control, And 1200Wt Amp And Street Glow Neons Inside And Out. #2 My Doors Are Getting Hard To Open. As Well As The Drivers Door Refuses To Unlock When Its Slightly Cold Out Side. #3 Does Any One Happen To Have Some Sort Of VacUum Schematics??? I Bought The Car Set Up With Nos And Running TrIck flow Intakes With Afr Heads. The Car Was Set Up Strictly For Racing But I Drive It Everyday. Can Any One Please Help.

MikeH686 · Mar 21, 2013

The doors are not vacuum operated???

91 NytemareGT · Mar 21, 2013

I Know They Aren't. It Was A Separate Question. I'm Thinking The Door Issue Is The PoWer Lock Actuator Sticking.

JordanB21 · Mar 21, 2013

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/#Diagrams This has a ton of a diagrams, mostly electrical and some vacuum, for starters.
On the alternator, you really only need the alternator. It's best to make or buy a premade kit of wires(painless performance I believe makes one). You have to upgrade the current ground and go with a higher grade power wire(both 4 gauge), and you should run an in-line fuse.
http:// www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/3g-alternator-install-a-how-to.646825/
The pictures on that link don't work anymore, but it still tells you what you need and what to do, simple. The 'hardest' part is grinding on the bracket for the alternator so it'll fit.

And as a side note, not to be rude, but it's better not to type each word with a capital letter on the beginning and broken up. It makes it harder to read, and that might be why Mike thought you thought the doors were vacuum operated.

jrichker · Mar 21, 2013

3g alternator - full wiring instructions & diagrams. http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/3g-alternator-install-a-how-to.646825/#post-6673702

Follow this link to fix your door lock actuator problems http://bellsouthpwp.net/l/r/lrichker/Mustang_tech/door_actuator_fix/1_of_8_door_actuator.htm

Stuck with door lock actuators that don't work and don't want to pay the $50+ for a new one? Tried the junkyard ones and found that they last six months and freeze up?

A new actuator for less than $5. Fix one side for $18, do both sides for only $25. I don't sell parts, I don’t make any money off of the upgrade, I just tell you how to do it cheaply and easily.

Here’s a picture of the new actuator installed:

By the way, i am still using the same $4 actuators I bought in 2002 and this is the second Mustang I have installed them in! Beat that with your fancy replacements!

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

MikeH686 · Mar 21, 2013

Oh OK just making sure yeah sticking actuator is the possible cause jrichker has a remedy for that too

91 NytemareGT · Mar 21, 2013

Thank You guys. I bought this mustang from a guy that has set it up strictly for drag. I'm trying to get it totally normal as in a daily driver with some get up and go as well as a weekend toy. Only the essentials were hooked up.For example, the reverse lights are wired to a toggle switch plate that replaced factory ashtray. I'm burning really rich due to MAF sensor is my prime suspect. The Trick flow intake being utilized has three vacuum Ports. Two in the back and one in the front all under the body of it. The two in the back are hooked to NOS solenoids and the front one was left sucking air. any clues or help would be greatly appreciated.
As for the alternator.... I found the charts in another forum listing the cars that you can pull from for the swap. I'm thinking the F150 would have the highest amp rating and would still basically be a direct fit aside from the bracket grinding right? What car would be the best to pull from? Sorry I can't link that forum cuz I'm not sure how

mikestang63 · Mar 21, 2013

91 NytemareGT said:
Ok. So Here Goes..I'm Going To Go Bone Yard Shopping For a g3 Alternator After Reading Some Of The Forums Here. What Wires Do I Need To Grab With The Alt To Put In My 91Gt? The Stock Generator Just Ain't Cutting It. I Have Electric Fans, MSD 6Al Ignition Control, And 1200Wt Amp And Street Glow Neons Inside And Out. #2 My Doors Are Getting Hard To Open. As Well As The Drivers Door Refuses To Unlock When Its Slightly Cold Out Side. #3 Does Any One Happen To Have Some Sort Of VacUum Schematics??? I Bought The Car Set Up With Nos And Running TrIck flow Intakes With Afr Heads. The Car Was Set Up Strictly For Racing But I Drive It Everyday. Can Any One Please Help.

First thing to do is get rid of the neon. Serious. That has no place on a Mustang.

You don;'t have a generator. They stopped making generators in cars about 70 years ago. Then get a 94-96 Mustang 3G alternator and do a search here for the install. It's been posted a few hundred times.

Replace the door actuators.

Many people have nitrous and an intake and heads on the street.

Why do you suspect the MAF is bad.

Have you pulled any codes?

Did you hear Taco Bell has a new Cool Ranch Dorito Taco? mmmmmmmmmmmmmm

84Ttop · Mar 21, 2013

mikestang63 said:
First thing to do is get rid of the neon. Serious. That has no place on a Mustang.

You don;'t have a generator. They stopped making generators in cars about 70 years ago. Then get a 94-96 Mustang 3G alternator and do a search here for the install. It's been posted a few hundred times.

Replace the door actuators.

Many people have nitrous and an intake and heads on the street.

Why do you suspect the MAF is bad.

Have you pulled any codes?

Did you hear Taco Bell has a new Cool Ranch Dorito Taco? mmmmmmmmmmmmmm

DON'T RUIN MY LUNCH TODAY!!!

91 NytemareGT · Mar 21, 2013

Ok. I'm aware people run NOS, intakes, and heads on street. However that wasn't the question. My question was about the vacuum ports and route. I suspect the MAF due largely in part factory sensors are 55mm yet I use a 70mm BBK. I am trying to obtain everyones opinion as to that could be why I'm running so rich.
The neons aren't going any where and no I haven't had the new dorito tacos. They don't appeal to me even on starved days lol

91 NytemareGT · Mar 21, 2013

looking good. nothing wrong with neon

mikestang63 · Mar 21, 2013

The factory MAF is 58MM not 55MM and swapping to a 70MM has nothing to due with a car running rich. You have an open vacuum line sucking unmetered air. EGR, Vacuum cannister hooked up? I'm not going to even get into injector size, fuel pressure setting, why you haven't run the codes. You seem to know everything so you should have it covered.

Good luck with your car.

91 NytemareGT · Mar 21, 2013

.. I wasnt trying to ruffle your feathers. I'm running 19lb injectors I believe. I'm pretty sure that the vacuume may be coming from intake. the reservoir isn't hooked up. how would I dial down fuel pressure and what should it be running?

7991LXnSHO · Mar 21, 2013

You don;'t have a generator. They stopped making generators in cars about 70 years

Replace the door actuators.

Why do you suspect the MAF is bad.

Did you hear Taco Bell has a new Cool Ranch Dorito Taco? mmmmmmmmmmmmmm

Generators were phased out in the early to mid 1960's. Although you are still generating electricity, just alternating current instead of DC.
What is the deal with snack food?
My cheaper than NAPA actuators from LRS are good and a direct fit.

91 NytemareGT · Mar 21, 2013

?????
how are you guys reposting like that

jrichker · Mar 21, 2013

Make sure the MAF is a match for your injectors.

94-96 Mustangs used a 70 MM MAF & sensor that is almost a perfet match for the older MAF equipped 5.0 Mustangs.

The MAF body and sensor are designed to match each other. Therefore you can't swap sensors between different part number MAF bodies and maintain proper calibration. The assembly is designed to match the computer’s internal program, and swapping a different MAF can upset the computer's calibration.

The OEM Ford MAFs are not calibrated to injector size. The injector sizing is done in the computer’s internal programming. Aftermarket MAF’s “lie” to the computer in an attempt to fool the computer into changing the injector pulse on timing to match the increased airflow.

94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a flange adapter to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1 *2

Once your replacement 70MM MAF is in place, disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes. When you reconnect the battery and start the engine, the computer will relearn the settings for the new MAF.

*1.) Metal flange adapter http://www.kustomz.com/cat3.html Buy the TR70 for $44.95. Or spend some time on eBay looking for one that may fit.

*2.) MAF & sensor interchange
The 94-95 Mustang 5.0 MAF & sensor is also found on:
1995-94 Mustang 3.8L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Crown Victoria 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1995-94 Mustang, Mustang Cobra 5.0L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Town Car 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Grand Marquis 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
Evidently the –A1A, -A2A, AA, etc. on the end of the part number is a minor variant that did not change the operating specs. You should be able to ignore it and have everything work good.

Dump the codes to find any unseen EFI problems.

Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on.

Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.

Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Post the codes you get and I will post 86-93 model 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes. I do not have a complete listing for 94-95 model 5.0 Mustangs at this time.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. On a manual transmission car, be sure to press the clutch to the floor.
Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.

If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and driveablity problems

Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off, and clutch (if present) is pressed to the floor, and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Your 86-88 5.0 won't have a working Check Engine Light, so you'll need a test light.
See AutoZone Part Number: 25886 , $10

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30-$36.

84Ttop · Mar 21, 2013

Totally unrelated note, but an important one...
Behold today's lunch, un ruined

91 NytemareGT · Mar 21, 2013

Somebody got a craving eh? lol. Thanks for all the info jrichker, Ill have to reinstall the CEL bulb and run that test and Ill post my findings.

madspeed · Mar 21, 2013

91 NytemareGT said:
?????
how are you guys reposting like that

:dunno:

MikeH686 · Mar 21, 2013

You weren't kidding 84Ttop you must work at a taco bell I love doritos though they are so great ... hey did you know they finally made a cool ranch taco we gotta let toolow91 know about this

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