For Sale Supercharged 1989 SSP Coupe $13,500 obo

Jun 11, 2004
1989 ex Texas Department of Public Safety Special Service Package coupe, verified by buck tags and VIN on the VIN project list.

H/C/I/SC, TKO600, 31 spline axles, Tweecer RT.

Lots of pics:

My goal for the build of the car was to be a tasteful and clean street car that could do anything while having the ability to run 10 second times. It has a proven combo that should be able to do so, but I haven't been to the track with it in this configuration to confirm. It's currently set up for drag racing. Throw on the swaybar, pony wheels, and adjust the shocks and struts and it will handle well.

Original 5.0 5 spd car
All exterior holes for spotlights, etc. Have been welded in.
~230k miles. Doesn't feel like it. Probably because nearly all wear items have been replaced. Everyone who sees or rides in it is shocked when I tell them.

Nearly everything under the hood and body has been replaced or touched in the last 18k miles, many in the last 2k.

Here are the details:

Stock short block. Pistons have the correct part number for 88-92 forged units.
Novi 2000 supercharger running 10 lbsof boost. This supercharger can support 1000hp, so there's room to grow with an aftermarket block. Will include a smaller 3" pulley with sale.
70mm throttle body
Genuine (not Chinese) 93 cobra intake with ported lower that's also been port matched to the heads
AFR heads less than 2k miles on rebuild.
1.72:1 scorpion roller rockers <2k miles
ARP head studs, intake studs, valve cover studs, and I believe flywheel to crank bolts.
Steeda #19 cam - very streetable supercharger grind.
Previous owner installed new timing chain and it checked out fine.
Aftermarket (trick flow? Can't remember) pushrods
Previous owner installed new oil pump
New water pump less than 2k ago
93 cobra water pump pulley from ASP
C&L 76MM MAF sensor
Ford racing green top 42#/hr injectors, bbk billet adjustable fpr
walbro 255 hp fuel pump

Shorty BBK headers
locking header bolts
Catless 2.5" BBK H pipe w 2 O2 bungs welded in for wideband(s)
Flowmaster American thunder catback w dumps. Will include tailpipes and dynomax catback and pipes if wanted

TKO 600 5spd with the numerically lower 5th gear. Great for keeping revs low. This car gets 26mpg on the highway!
Pro Motion clutch that works great! Light pedal pressure, but holds the power.
McLeod scatterproof bellhousing
Ford Racing flywheel
Adjustable ballstud
New pilot and throw out bearings
Pro Motion extended clutch fork
Maximum Motorsports billet clutch quadrant
Maximum Motorsports clutch cable adjuster
Maximum Motorsports long clutch cable
Ford racing aluminum driveshaft balanced after stronger non-greasable u joints were installed
yoke change for tko output shaft.
HPM Zinc plated driveshaft safety loop
8.8 rear end
Ford racing 3.55 gears
Ford racing 03 cobra carbon clutch packs 31 spline traction lok
Alloy 31 spline axles
Changed out all bushings, bearings, races, and seals in rear end
Synthetic gear oil
Ford friction modifier

15" Weld racing draglites. Skinny fronts and wide rears with 27x10.5x15 Hoosier QuickTime Pros with low miles.
16" pony wheels that are in good shape. 2 caps are in good shape, 2 in not great but not bad shape. 2 wheels have some Falken tires with lots of tread. 2 have worn nitto drag radials.

Ford Racing 03-04 cobra front lower control arms
AGR performance high ratio steering rack
Moog tie rod ends
Tokico adjustable drag racing struts and shocks. Firmest setting is firmer than stock, softest is a lot softer.
Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates
Ford Racing rear upper control arms
Pressed in new rubber bushings in rear end
Maximum Motorsports rear lower control arms. Poly bushings in front and aluminum in rear.
Replaced rubber isolators on all springs with new genuine Ford ones.
Front swaybar not currently installed will go with the car, has higher durometer bushings on end links.
Stock coil springs all the way around.

Stock replacement radiator
Dual electric fan assembly (new when installed) - either from a contour or Windstar, so dependable OEM quality.
SSP blue silicone hoses
Water wetter
Car has never overheated while I've had it.

PA performance 130? 160? Amp (can find out.) Alternator and cable kit.
Optima red top battery relocated to the right side of trunk. Mounted in a fabbed aluminum battery box.

Tweecer RT
Innovate wideband

New front brake rotors, Timken bearings wherever I could get them packed in synthetic grease, seals
Hawk performance brake pads
Rear: new painted drums
Replaced brake shoes and springs

Maximum Motorsports powder coated full length weld in subframe connectors
Has UPR torque box reinforcements installed for both the lower and upper boxes.

Police Interceptor badge on trunklid
Replacement 5.0 fender badges
Ford antenna delete plate
Genuine Ford headlight pack from 50resto
Mineral gray paint job

Rare sand interior.
Manual windows
Manual locks
Has cruise control which works flawlessly.
Stock seats replaced with 03 mustang seats that match the interior perfectly. Autometer electric fuel pressure and mechanical boost pressure gauges set in the autometer gauge pod that takes the place of the center AC vents. Still have the stock vents. Replaced the broken ashtray spring and under it are hiding the MSD BTM and Tweecer RT knobs. Verified stock tach is accurate with datalogging.
Python transponder car alarm I installed myself. Still works great.
Professionally installed 20% window tint
Rear window does not have defroster.
Replaced heater core with genuine Ford replacement.
Genuine Ford radio delete plate
Armrest delete plate included for track days if you'd like to shed some weight. Stock armrest installed.
50 resto floor mats

Hardly anything I installed was used. All I can remember were the AFR heads, Steeda #19 cam, and Weld wheels. The heads had some damage when I got them. Looked like a valve dropped in a cylinder and dinged up a combustion chamber. Had rebuilt by a great cylinder head guy (CHS in Wellington, KS). I was worried about the chamber, so he had them pressure tested and they passed with flying colors. The heads had a valve job done, replaced valve seals, I believe valve guides?, spring pressures and installed height checked, and they were milled for flatness. He was sure they'd work fine and they have. I've seen no Ill effects. The steeda cam was used, which the previous owner said had very little miles. It looked brand new and has functioned fine. The only other used parts were the draglite wheels. One had minor damage to the lip, and I had that fixed. 0 misbalance issues, tire holds air great, even with the Hoosiers, and it tracks true!

Even though the car is very nice, it is not perfect. It has some leaks. It burns a little oil (less than a qt/3k miles last I checked). The radiator has a pinhole leak at the neck. AC is not installed currently, but all of the parts for it will go with the car. Paint isn't show quality, but is very nice. Has some rock chips and a couple small spots on the front and rear bumpers where it's peeled from being bumped. Each bumper was literally bumped by friends backing up in the driveway without looking.There is a small crack in one of the fenders where it meets the front bumper. I believe this was from body flex, as it has not spread at all since the subframe connectors were installed. There are a couple of door dings. Every now and then it drops a cylinder because the injector doesn't fire due to wiring in the 10 pin connectors. When this happens, the connectors need to be cleaned. I wanted to fix this, but the only thing I could think of is solder the wires together and get rid of the connectors. Didn't want to lose the ability to disconnect the engine harness. The MAF wire sometimes gets coated in oil from the K&N filter. It needs to be cleaned now and then with electrical cleaner. The tune isn't perfect, but it's darn close. Does not run lean. There are holes and a little sagging in the headliner. There is a small cut in the backseat. There are 2 holes worn in the carpet. One near the gas pedal and one behind the clutch pedal. The SSP cars had one key access to everything. Unfortunately the ignition switch went bad and I had to replace it with another. So the car now has one key for the doors and trunk, and one for the ignition, like a standard mustang. I believe I kept the old broken one and will go with the car. Reason I don't know exact miles is my original SSP 160 mph speedometer went bad and I replaced it with a new old stock Ford Motorsport 160 mph one 22k ago. I kept the old speedo and will find it to tell you exact miles if you're seriously interested. It will go with the car as well. Maybe both the ignition switch and speedometer can be fixed/rebuilt?

Lots of parts, tons of receipts and info, 1989 Ford mustang brochure, and genuine Helm factory service manuals will go with the car.

I'm sure there's more I'm forgetting. If you have any questions, just ask. thanks

The reason I'm selling is I hardly drive it anymore. My left knee gives me trouble (not good with a stick car), and I have back issues that prevent me from tinkering with it and driving it much. This car deserves to be driven. That's what I built it for. Though I'll hate to see it go and will surely kick myself for it in the future, I could use the money for other things.

It's very clean. The car has been garage kept nearly all of the 15 years I've owned it. A little over half a year was the only time it was kept outside and used as a daily driver. The rest of the time it's been a "fun", only driven in nice weather car.

I'm going to ask for $13,500 obo. Don't be afraid to make offers. No trades.

My name is Matt. I'm located in Wichita, KS.
Please feel free to ask any questions!
VIN is available upon request. So is my phone number.

It would be nice to see this car go to a good home! One where it will be taken care of as well as I have!



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New Member
Oct 24, 2018
Very interested. I sent you a message with my email and phone number.