A Little Advice

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crunchie12268

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Aug 4, 2004

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Manhattan, KS

Aug 4, 2004

#1

• Aug 4, 2004

• #1

I have the currnet mods coming as you can see in my signature... I was wondering if my current transmission and rearend and all can handle it.. I have the stock clutch and everything, it is all motor so far.. Does anybody know the weak points on a mustang that I should upgrade before putting the power to the ground. Thanks

 

89CopCoupe

Banned

Feb 17, 2004

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Post Count City

Aug 4, 2004

#2

• Aug 4, 2004

• #2

I would start with some sub-frame connectors and rear control arms with adjustable uppers .... keep the chassis stiff and the axle more predictable

 

Legendary

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Oct 10, 2002

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City of Angels

Aug 4, 2004

#3

• Aug 4, 2004

• #3

I would upgrade the clutch but I think you should be fine. You're on street tires right?

BTW: No gears or cam? You're cheating yourself.

 

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crunchie12268

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Aug 4, 2004

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Manhattan, KS

Aug 4, 2004

#4

• Aug 4, 2004

• #4

I have the stock cam with 1.7 rockers and it works great. I just bought this car a week ago, but I have looked on the differential and the cover has been off, this thing raps out in first so fast I don't think I should get gears.. but it says 1900-2000 rpms in 5 gear so do you think it has gears? I was going to upgrade the clutch, but everybody says that it will handle it if I am not powershifting or anything... I still have street tires, but I am getting some 225/55/16 Potenza's that looks like they have a good soft rubber... traction right now sucks for me... but ive talked to people who said that the mustangs are pretty strong, but the tranny is only rated at 300 ft/lbs of torque, so I am guessing that my tires break loose before 300 ft/lbs so I don't have much to worry about, but if anyone has anymore advice I appreciate it. Thanks

 

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crunchie12268

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Aug 4, 2004

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Manhattan, KS

Aug 4, 2004

#5

• Aug 4, 2004

• #5

Hey I just checked out the link to your car, and it looks REALLY nice, can you tell me were you can get the C&L Air Intake kit without the meter, just the tube from the meter to the t/b.. and the price... Thanks

 

408stroker5.0

The world would be a better place if all males jus

Mar 10, 2004

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Bonnyville, Alberta, CANADA

Aug 4, 2004

#6

• Aug 4, 2004

• #6

Running Slick's changes everything.... since your not using slicks I woudn't worry about the rear end or the tranny just jet. As long as your not ramming gear's or popping the clutch all the time the old T5 should be all right. Before the rear or tranny I would definetly invest in a good quality set of Subframe Connector's and rear upper & lower control arm's to get the power to the ground proparly. Of course with in time your stock pressure plate & disc is going to fubar on you so that will be a good time to throw a good performance oriented clutch set up in her. (Centerforce, Spec, Mcleod etc.) When the time comes change it but dont worry about yet.

 

Legendary

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City of Angels

Aug 4, 2004

#7

• Aug 4, 2004

• #7

crunchie12268 said:

Hey I just checked out the link to your car, and it looks REALLY nice, can you tell me were you can get the C&L Air Intake kit without the meter, just the tube from the meter to the t/b.. and the price... Thanks

Click to expand...

Thanks man. I got the tube and meter from http://www.holcomania.com/. If you go to the web site and put in your info they will send you a catolog. I think the price for just the tube is around 100 bucks. I could be mistaken though.

 

_jb_

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Mar 4, 2004

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Michigan, Berrien County

Aug 4, 2004

#8

• Aug 4, 2004

• #8

crunchie12268 said:

...I have looked on the differential and the cover has been off, this thing raps out in first so fast I don't think I should get gears.. but it says 1900-2000 rpms in 5 gear so do you think it has gears?

Click to expand...

It depends on how fast you are going. I run at 75 MPH at about 1700 RPM and I have 2.73s in the rear end.

 

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crunchie12268

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Aug 4, 2004

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Manhattan, KS

Aug 4, 2004

#9

• Aug 4, 2004

• #9

yeah see I am going 70mph and it is at 2000, so what do you guys think I have in my rearend thanks for the info Legendary, I will check out the intake, I was thinking about getting lower control arms and uppers, also subframe connectors, but I thought you have to drill threw the frame, and I don't think I want to do that... am I correct, or is that not right.

 

Legendary

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Aug 4, 2004

#10

• Aug 4, 2004

• #10

I have 373's and around 2000 rpms I'm doing 60 mph. You have jack up the back of your car and rotate the rear tires one rotation. If your drive shaft turns 3-3/4 times you have 3.73. With 3.55's your driveshaft would turn 3 and one half times.

Edit: The subframes are better welded. The upper and lowers should bolt in the stock position.

 

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crunchie12268

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Aug 4, 2004

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Manhattan, KS

Aug 4, 2004

#11

• Aug 4, 2004

• #11

wow, I guess I have 3.27's, sweet